The soft-shell crab is one of the pleasures of late spring and summer. They offer the sweet, briny flavor of fresh blue crab wrapped in a delicate, edible shell that turns crisp when cooked.
This year’s season, however, appears to have been compressed.
Soft-shells are blue crabs that have recently shed their hard outer shell and are briefly in a soft, vulnerable state. Anthony D’Angelo of South Philadelphia seafood distributor Samuels Seafood said warmer water temperatures brought on the crab molt early, while fewer marketable peelers, weather interruptions, and normal predation left restaurants with fewer crabs and a shorter window.
Volume this year is down about 20% from last year, yet prices last year were about 15% higher, D’Angelo said.
As an example, D’Angelo said jumbo soft-shells sold for an average of about $98 a dozen in May, compared with roughly $117 a dozen during the same period last year. Another run of crabs from the Carolinas is expected in late August or early September, likely at lower prices, he said.
Many restaurants are offering soft-shells when they can get them. Blue Corn in the Italian Market recently featured them as tacos with mango slaw, guacamole, fresh jalapeño, and microgreens.
Others keep them on the menu throughout the season. Soft-shells remain one of the more expensive seafood items. Several restaurateurs said they are paying $95 to $100 a dozen for jumbo crabs. Given that many restaurants target food costs of roughly 30% to 33% of menu price, that is one reason a soft-shell dish can easily top $30.
For chef Randy Rucker, who serves soft-shells at both River Twice and Little Water, the annual ritual is worth the cost and unpredictability. “When they’re available, we grab them,” he said. “They’re special. They’ll always be special.”
Here are some of the dishes I’ve found. As always, call ahead to confirm availability.
Caffe Aldo Lamberti, Cherry Hill
Chef Genaro “Jerry” Ventura changes the preparation of his crabs frequently at this Italian destination. Last week, he crusted soft-shells with herbs and served them over arugula with tomatoes, cucumbers, and mango. Another preparation paired pan-seared soft-shells with squid-ink linguine, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, tomatoes, and snap peas. Expect to pay about $28 for one crab at lunch or $45 to $48 for two at dinner.
Condesa, Center City
At this Mexican restaurant, chef Jason Peabody’s crab relleno features beer-battered soft-shell crab with green rice, salsa roja, and epazote mayo ($34).
The Crossbar, Havertown
This Delco taproom’s soft-shell is battered and fried, then topped with smoky house-made harissa aioli, lettuce, and tomato on a Le Bus brioche bun ($24).
The Good King Tavern, Bella Vista
The French bistro has featured soft-shell crab as a chalkboard special with flageolet beans, tapenade, and preserved lemon ($32).
.Courtesy of Little Water
Little Water, Center City
This seafood restaurant’s chicken-fried soft-shell crab comes with vin jaune hollandaise and sorrel ($42).
Lucky Duck, Old City/Northern Liberties
Soft-shells are on this riverside bar’s weekend brunch menu as a Benedict with Old Bay Alabama white sauce, arugula, and hollandaise, on brioche.
Oyster House, Center City
The seafood destination’s grilled soft-shell crab ($36) is plated with poblano Dijon sauce, blanched asparagus, smoked trout roe, and pickled ramps. There’s also a fried soft-shell crab BLT ($29) with smoked bacon and ramp buttermilk ranch.
Post Haste, Kensington
At this farm-to-table restaurant, chef Ari Miller (husband of Inquirer food reporter Kiki Aranita) offers a soft-shell hoagie tartine featuring a breaded and fried crab on Brass Monkey bread with green coriander mayo, shredded local iceberg lettuce, heirloom tomato, crispy herbs, and caviar lime ($24).
River Twice, South Philadelphia
The signature preparation at this Southern restaurant returns this season: a soft-shell crab grilled over charcoal and finished with crab-fat koji butter and golden Ossetra caviar ($52).
Stina, South Philadelphia
At his Mediterranean restaurant, chef Bobby Saritsoglou serves soft-shell crab with Greek-style potato salad, capers, lemon, herbs, extra-virgin olive oil, smoked trout caviar, and Bukovo vinaigrette ($36).
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