After nearly four decades of friendship and two careers that took them in different directions, chefs Arthur Cavaliere and Justin Bogle are working together.
The Roxborough natives and best friends since third grade, both 45, have signed a lease for the former Winnie’s Manayunk space on Main Street near Roxborough Avenue, where they plan to open a new restaurant in late fall. Though they are keeping most details, including the name, under wraps, they describe the project cryptically as a “punk French” restaurant inspired by the neighborhood that helped shaped them.
The former Winnie’s at 4266 Main St. in Manayunk.Alejandro A. Alvarez / Staff Photographer
For both, the restaurant represents the fulfillment of a dream they have shared since they started cooking together as teenagers.
“Artie and I have been best friends since grade school,” Bogle said. “We always had this vision, this pipe dream, that someday we would join forces and do something together.”
The two met at Shawmont Elementary in Roxborough and got their start in the late 1990s working for chef Derek Davis at his string of restaurants then on Main Street. Their careers soon diverged.
Cavaliere is a longtime consulting chef. Among the gems he created was the shatteringly crispy chicken at the former Bar Poulet at 20th and Walnut Streets. He came up through Philadelphia kitchens including El Vez and Parc, where he was executive chef, and headed to chef Michel Richard’s orbit in Washington, before opening In Riva, Black Squirrel Pub & Haunt, and Foghorn in East Falls. He left that partnership last year.
Chef Arthur Cavaliere’s fried chicken was a signature at Bar Poulet, which was open in 2021-22 at 2005 Walnut St. Michael Klein
Bogle, who attended Walnut Hill College, cooked at Striped Bass and Alma de Cuba before heading to New York, where he became one of the youngest American chefs to lead a two-Michelin-starred restaurant at Gilt. In 2013, he returned to Philadelphia to open Avance — the successor to Le Bec-Fin — and after its 2014 closing joined Garces Group as corporate executive chef. He later returned to New York, where he spent years with Union Square Hospitality Group, most recently as executive chef of Manhatta.
Family drew him home after nearly two decades in New York.
“I knew I needed to give my kids a backyard,” Bogle said. “Raising three kids in a two-bedroom apartment wasn’t the goal for me.”
Avance, led by Justin Bogle, had a 10-month run after Le Bec-Fin’s closing at 1523 Walnut St.David M Warren / Staff Photographer
He left Manhatta last spring, relocated his family to the area last August, and immediately resumed planning with Cavaliere. They spent the past year evaluating Main Street locations before settling on the former Winnie’s, which closed last November.
“When the right space presented itself, it was a no-brainer,” Bogle said.
The partners are keeping quiet about the menu, name, and design while they refine the concept. Bogle will oversee the kitchen and said the long-term plan extends beyond a single restaurant. “We have goals and aspirations to do more than just this,” he said.
Chef-owner Arthur Cavaliere at In Riva in 2013. Working the pizza oven at rear is sous chef Biff Gottehrer, now at Ripplewood, the Refectory, and Izzy’s.David M Warren / Staff Photographer
If construction and permitting stay on schedule, they hope to open in November. If delays push the project into December, they are likely to wait until after the new year.
Cavaliere said the concept is rooted in “friendship, memory, and the neighborhood that raised” them.
“Their decision to invest in Manayunk is another testament to the strength of the neighborhood and the continued momentum of its dining scene,” said Veronica Blum of MPN Realty, who brokered the lease with Alex Charen. “It’s especially rewarding to help bring operators of this caliber to a community that values independent concepts.”
For Bogle, returning to Main Street with the friend he has known since childhood carries a significance beyond opening another restaurant.
“For us to come back to where it all started, plant our roots there, and have some fun — it has been a goal for a long time,” he said. “We’re just really excited about the opportunity.”
Located at 22 W. Lancaster Ave. in the former Kung Fu Tea storefront, Half A While is a tea and dessert shop specializing in high-quality cold-brewed teas and pastries and cakes with Asian influences.
Husband and wife owners Leo Wei and Haley He acquired the storefront from Kung Fu Tea after years of dreaming about opening their own business.
At Half A While, the duo is serving a range of treats, including handmade crepe and tiramisu cakes; cold-brewed leaf teas; and buns filled with taro, minced pork, and sausage. Half A While’s teas come in flavors from passion fruit to brown sugar, and can include manyof the boba accoutrements customers at Kung Fu Tea came to love.
Half A While tea shop in Ardmore. The lettering on the wall is 3-D printed by store owner Leo Wei.Aidan T. Gallo / Staff Photographer
The name Half A While is a mashup of two core tenants of the café.
“Half” symbolizes Wei and He’s goal to use around half the amount of sugar traditionally found in items like bubble tea and crepe cake.
“That is our intention, to be more healthy,” Wei said.
“While” signifies their desire for patrons to feel comfortable in the shop and stay a while, lounging on the sofa or posting up at one of the tables. It’s a “really cozy place,” Wei said.
Half A While will be in its “soft opening” phase through the end of August or the beginning of September, as Wei and He pin down inventory needs, train staff, and get their online apparatus up and running. The store is currently open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesdays through Sundays.
The mango mille crepe cake slice, strawberry mango juice sago and lychee jelly with mango ice cream, and the mango coconut sticky rice ice cream at Mango Mango Dessert in Ardmore.Aidan T. Gallo / Staff Photographer
Around the corner, Mango Mango has moved into 38 Greenfield Ave., the former home of electronic store World Wide Stereo.
Mango Mango is a growing chain of Asian-inspired dessert restaurants, where the sweet, sticky stone fruit is the menu’s “muse.”
The first Mango Mango opened in New York City’s Chinatown in 2013, and the dessert chain has since opened more than three dozen franchises across the U.S., from Hawaii to New Jersey. Ardmore is Mango Mango’s sixth Philly-area location after Chinatown, University City, Oxford Circle, Berwyn, and Cherry Hill.
Mango Mango Dessert in Ardmore.Aidan T. Gallo / Staff Photographer
Mango Mango’s menu is extensive, ranging from pillowy crepe cakes to ice cream sundaes and fruit teas. Naturally, the café’s desserts and teas lean heavily on mango — one can order a mango smoothie, mango crepe cake, layered mango snowcloud with fresh mango chunks and popping bubbles, and hot mango green tea — though other flavors are available, too.
Mango Mango’s Ardmore outpost held its grand opening on July 31. The café is open from noon to 10 p.m. seven days a week, and the shop will be running deals and promotions through its first four weeks of service.
The two dessert cafés join an expanding list of new businesses in Ardmore, both in the Main Line community’s downtown corridor and in Suburban Square, the popular Kimco Realty-owned outdoor shopping center.
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Philadelphia restaurants Hiroki, La Calaca Feliz, and the Lodge by Two Robbers have announced their departures in the last week.
The latest announcement was Hiroki, sushi chef Hiroki Fujiyama’s serene omakase room behind Wm. Mulherin’s Sons in Fishtown, which posted Friday that Aug. 8 would be its last service.
In an interview with The Inquirer, David Grasso, a principal in owner Method Co., called the closing “a strategic repositioning rather than a retreat from fine dining” and added that the decision was driven by a desire to stay ahead of customer preferences and culinary trends, not by problems with the restaurant or a broader pullback from fine dining. Method is planning to open a new concept — so far undetermined — in the space on Lee Street next year.
Method also has several new fine-dining concepts planned for other markets. Fujiyama, former head sushi chef at Morimoto, remains involved with Method, including a Detroit project called Hiroki-San, Grasso said.
La Calaca Feliz’s last day at 2321 Fairmount Ave. in Fairmount was Saturday. Owner Brian Sirhal, who opened the Mexican cantina 15 years ago with fellow Garces alumnus Tim Spinner, said its lease expired. Sirhal owns Cantina Feliz in Ambler, while Spinner’s holdings are Taqueria Amor and Riptide Tavern, side by side in Manayunk.
The Lodge by Two Robbers Spirits Co. is the second tasting room/restaurant concept from the Philadelphia-based hard seltzer-turned-vodka soda maker.Jenn Ladd / Staff
The Lodge, the Bella Vista offshoot of Fishtown’s Two Robbers at 11th and Fitzwater Streets, announced on social media Thursday that its last call would be Aug. 9 after barely a year. The post said it would operate as a pop-up and private-event space “for a period of time.” Vivek Nayar, who founded Two Robbers as a hard-seltzer business with his twin brother, Vikram, said they decided to focus on scaling their wholesale beverage line and running their Fishtown location.
These closings do not necessarily point to an industry in retreat. More often, such changes reflect the constant reshuffling of a business in which closures and openings tend to move in tandem. Many of these addresses already have suitors or redevelopment plans, and there is never a shortage of projects in the pipeline.
Latin mainstay Mixto in Washington Square West closed July 12 after 24 years. Lori Penrose, owner of the former South Philadelphia sports bar Toll Man Joe’s, purchased the property at 1141 Pine St. She hopes it will open in late August.
Besides falafel, Goldie is known for tehina shakes.TIM TAI / Staff Photographer
Four Center City Federal Donuts & Chicken locations and three Goldie falafel eateries are bowing out, as founders Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook announced July 14. In the city, only the FedNuts shop at Seventh Street and Fairmount Avenue remains, as well as the Goldie at 1911 Sansom St.
Pita Pocket Eatery in Cheltenham Village wrapped a 15-year run on July 23.
The Langhorne Hotel, a landmark bar and restaurant in Langhorne Borough, closed July 18 after 54 years under the Asta family. New owners Joe and Megan Kontz told the Bucks County Courier Times that they plan to spruce it up, change the name to honor the town’s original name (Four Lanes End), and open late this year.
A series of chain restaurants have shut down recently, including the Perkins in Drexel Hill, the Cracker Barrel in Downingtown, the Miller’s Ale House in Springfield, Delaware County, and the Brio Italian Grille locations in Marlton and Cherry Hill.
Market Day Canelé’s savory tart is a scrapbook of sorts for owners Gil Ortale and Nem Ngo. It’s sold at farmers’ markets on weekends, each tart a collection of every interaction they’ve had through the week, shopping from their fellow vendors at Rittenhouse, Headhouse, Chestnut Hill, and Swarthmore Farmers’ Markets, and filling in the gaps at Reading Terminal Market, where Ortale once ran Fireworks, a charcoal-grill stall four decades ago.
It’s tomato season, and the Market Day savory tomato tart ($30) is an ode to this area’s most covetable, most anticipated fruit. Crimini and white button mushrooms, corn, herb-roasted cotto ham from Claudio, Alderfer Farm eggs, and gruyère play supporting roles to the tomato slices splayed across its top. It’s a tart that’s also a philosophical meditation on produce.
“Flavors [in my cooking] should be crystal clear examples of the very thing you imagine,” said Ortale, whose resume reads like a highlights reel of Philadelphia’s most storied restaurants, as he has worked everywhere from Frog to La Terrasse. “Like when you’re a child and tasting herring or Roquefort for the first time.”
Ortale’s goal is to make food that tastes exactly like one’s first recollection of tasting any food. And so, his tomato tart reminds me of the first time I tasted fresh tomatoes cooked gently on a pizza, when I was five years old. It made me think of the first time I had sweet, fresh corn and the kernels burst in my mouth, and the savory British pies I ate growing up in Hong Kong.
Nem Ngo and Gil Ortale are the folks behind Market Day Canelé. They were photographed in their Philadelphia home on Thursday, July 30, 2026.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer
It’s so good that I was hesitant to write about it, as Ortale and Ngo usually only make two dozen to sell every week, and if you get one, there’s far less of a chance I’ll be able to get one.
The crust is intentionally imperfect and not uniform, which makes it so flaky, it will stop you in your tracks, mid-bite. Ortale makes every single tart by hand. He doesn’t use a mixer or a Robot Coupe. “He blends the butter into the dry ingredients for each dough ball. That’s why they taste the way they do, they’re light and never stodgy,” said Ngo. “You can’t get that without elbow grease. It can’t be done with a machine.”
This approach is also why Market Day Canelé has never opened a brick-and-mortar bakery. They have no desire to scale up.
“We’re not hardcore capitalists. We just genuinely want to make good food. The farmers’ market industry is the most supportive and values-driven part of the food economy. People are shopping there because they want to know where their food is coming from and they want to see the faces of the people who make the food. We try to uphold that by doing everything by hand, with love, and to the best of our ability,” said Ngo.
The canelé by Market Day Canelé is a vanilla custard pastry that is the traditional pastry of Bordeaux. It was photographed in Philadelphia on Thursday, July 30, 2026.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer
The airy, honey-combed crevices of beeswax and butter-slicked canelés may be the emblem of their business. They certainly have sent Ortale and then Ngo down an obsessive path of perfecting a corner of French-rooted baking traditions. But their savory tarts, with a rotation of ultra-local ingredients, many sourced from their friends, are the finest illustration of how skilled hands and devotion to one’s community can produce extraordinary things.
Market Day Canelé, instagram.com/marketdaycanele. Hours: Every Saturday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Rittenhouse Farmers’ Market and every Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Headhouse Farmers’ Market. Every other Saturday: Chestnut Hill Farmers’ Market and Swarthmore Farmers’ Market, 9 a.m. to 12 p.m.
New Zealand wines were rarely encountered in the U.S. before the 1980s, when their distinctive citrusy take on unoaked sauvignon blanc took the world by storm, starting with the Marlborough region. Almost all the examples of New Zealand wine available stateside still come from there. However, there is considerably more to explore than Marlborough, as with this tasty sauvignon blanc from the scenic Waipara Valley.
Like Marlborough, the Waipara Valley is located on New Zealand’s sparsely populated South Island, but it has significant differences of climate and terrain that create noticeable differences in wine flavor. Marlborough’s vineyards are centered on a broad expanse of cool and moist coastal flats at the northern tip of South Island. The Waipara Valley lies further south, near Christchurch, with vineyards that tend to be even cooler, higher, and drier in a network of sheltered valleys. This provides grape growers with a cooler but longer growing season, which develops more prominent tropical fruit flavors while remaining quite light-bodied and refreshingly tart.
Like most New Zealand sauvignon blancs, this iteration still features the green and leafy aromatics that give the best ones a savory, ceviche-like profile. This delightful example offers vibrant flavors of passionfruit and guava; zesty, lime-like acidity; and a fragrance with notes of fresh cilantro and parsley.
Sherwood Estate Sauvignon BlancCourtesy of Sherwood Estate
Sherwood Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Waipara Valley, New Zealand; 13% ABV
PLCB Item #100056939 — on sale through Aug. 2 for $17.99 (regularly $19.99)
No alternate retail locations within 50 miles of Philadelphia, according to www.wine-searcher.com.
An eclectic crop of new restaurants has opened over the last several months across the Philadelphia suburbs in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Delaware. Some — like the three sports bars in Camden County alone — are breathing new life into familiar addresses. Others mark ambitious first ventures.
Here are 18 of them, from Phoenixville to Gloucester Township to Wilmington.
Pennsylvania
Academy Grill (424 S. Bethlehem Pike, Fort Washington): Michael Sloane and Jay Rosenthal’s group, Fine Line Dining, has transformed the former Cantina Feliz into a polished white-tablecloth destination. Jeffrey Power, longtime chef at the erstwhile Dettera in Ambler, oversees a menu of house-made pasta, seafood, and steaks.
Bluebird Distilling has reopened with a new neo-Neapolitan pizzeria and restaurant.Photos courtesy of Ed Newton
Noah Clifford (left) and Sofia Siano working the pastry case at the Buttery in Bryn Mawr.Allie Ippolito / For The Inquirer
The Buttery Bryn Mawr (836 W. Lancaster Ave., Bryn Mawr): The Malvern bakery-cafe opened its Main Line expansion with 82 indoor seats and daily service from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. The menu includes sourdough breads, pastries, Turkish eggs (poached eggs cooked in garlicky yogurt with a drizzle of spicy butter), sandwiches, and seasonal lunch dishes, plus grab-and-go foods after the kitchen closes at 3 p.m.
Cleavers (103 Squire Dr., Newtown Square): The Center City cheesesteak shop grand-opened its second location last month at Ellis Preserve, offering cheesesteaks, chicken cheesesteaks, burgers, sandwiches, fries, and milkshakes.
The Coffee Station (1117 Smithbridge Rd., Glen Mills): The Delaware County breakfast-and-lunch operator took over the former Meghan’s Restaurant, which had occupied the building for 27 years. The menu includes omelets, pancakes, breakfast sandwiches, burgers, hoagies, wraps, soups, and salads. Other locations are in Morton and Garnet Valley.
Tabletop and tableside cooking are offered at Ogyu Japanese BBQ.Jose F. Moreno / Staff Photographer
Ogyu Japanese BBQ & Bar (60 Greenfield Ave., Ardmore): Restaurateur Sam Li’s upscale yakiniku restaurant occupies the former Iron Hill Brewery. Customers grill premium Wagyu and other meats on tabletop burners, choosing from fixed-price packages or à la carte selections. The dramatically remodeled space includes black-and-gold finishes, marble-paneled walls, a large bar, and private dining rooms.
Upper Darby’s Tina Fey offers Jimmy Fallon a slice of Pica’s pizza on the “Tonight” show in 2014.Lloyd Bishop / NBC
Pica’s Italian Market (1101 Sussex Blvd., Broomall): After closing its landmark Upper Darby dining room earlier this year, the Pica family soft-opened this mostly takeout shop in a Delco light-industrial park, carrying the restaurant’s signature square pizzas, sandwiches, prepared foods, and other Italian specialties. Pica’s, which hit the national radar in 2014 when locally raised Tina Fey sampled its pizza on the Tonight show, traces its roots to Frank Pica Sr.’s West Philadelphia pizzeria. There’s a West Chester location, too.
P.J. Whelihan’s (2920 S. Eagle Rd., Newtown): The regional sports-bar chain took over the former Iron Hill Brewery at the Village at Newtown with its signature wings, burgers, sandwiches, salads, and American entrees, backed by numerous televisions and a broad draft-beer selection. Most of Iron Hill’s existing layout was retained.
Pomelo Rooftop Terrace at the Brandywine, 165 King of Prussia Rd., King of Prussia.The Brandywine
Pomelo Rooftop Terrace (165 King of Prussia Rd., Radnor): This expansive rooftop bar and lounge atop The Brandywine hotel in Radnor (with 136 seats, inside and out) will grand-open Aug. 8 with chef Michael Davies’ menu of shareable plates (e.g. oysters, scallop crudo, a smash burger, grilled branzino, lion’s mane mushroom cake), raw bar, botanical-focused cocktails, wine, and beer. Weekend brunch begins Aug. 22.
Porter (34 E. Butler Ave., Ambler): This newcomer is in the former Gypsy Blu space on the first floor of Ambler’s historic former Wyndham Hotel, offering contemporary American cooking in a candlelit, vintage-inspired dining room. Menu includes oysters, pasta, risotto, seafood, and meat dishes. Gaslight, a separate craft-cocktail bar with small plates, is upstairs.
Rick’s Tavern (201 W. Seventh Ave., Conshohocken): Chef Derek Davis runs the show at Rick and Gale Mahoney’s modern tavern on the rebuilt site of Pizza Time Saloon and Old Time Saloon. The two-story restaurant honors those neighborhood institutions with wood-fired pizza while adding house-made pasta, cocktails, private-event space, and live music upstairs on Friday and Saturday nights.
The bar at the Scratch Kitchen by Gallo’s, 575 Horsham Rd, Horsham.Michael Klein / Staff
The Scratch Kitchen at Gallo’s (575 Horsham Rd., Horsham): The Harvey family, owners of Gallo’s Seafood in Northeast Philadelphia, is behind this casual, roomy neighborhood restaurant in the former Farm & Fisherman Tavern. Chef Bob DeLange, the owners’ son-in-law, combines seafood dishes from Gallo’s with burgers and bar food inspired by Harv’s Burger Bar, Gallo’s adjoining Northeast Philadelphia tavern.
The exterior of 333 Belrose in Radnor’s St. Davids’ area.Allie Ippolito / For The Inquirer
333 Belrose (333 Belrose Lane, Radnor): The longstanding contemporary American restaurant has reopened under chef Ross Essner after an extensive renovation that flipped the positions of the bar and main dining room.
Yume Sushi in the Shoppes at English Village, 1460 Bethlehem Pike, North Wales.Michael Klein / Staff
Yume Sushi (1460 Bethlehem Pike, North Wales): This Japanese restaurant has opened in the Shoppes at English Village, down the row from Trader Joe’s. Co-owner and head chef Kevin Wan brings about a decade of sushi experience to the venture. The menu centers on sushi, sashimi, rolls, and Japanese-Asian fusion dishes.
New Jersey
Flying Pig Tavern & Tap (1300 Blackwood-Clementon Rd., Gloucester Township): The sprawling former Favorites off-track-betting building has come up as the fifth unit in a growing group. Menu of pizzas, burgers, wings, tacos, and entrees shares billing with live bands, darts, shuffleboard, and a covered tiki bar. A sixth location is planned for the former Andalusia Bar & Grill space in Bensalem.
Home Team Tavern (267 S. Black Horse Pike, Mount Ephraim): Greg D’Alesio has turned the former Mount Ephraim Bar & Grill into a compact, sports-themed neighborhood tavern. Its scratch kitchen serves pizzas, burgers, wings, sandwiches, and elevated bar food, alongside draft cocktails and beer.
Thirsty Turtle Tavern (270 White Horse Pike, Barrington): This new concept from SAS Restaurant Group in the former Chuck Lager space features an open kitchen, burgers, pizza, sushi, cocktails, draft beer, and an outdoor patio behind garage doors. It operates daily; weekday happy hour and weekend brunch are expected to begin in the fall.
Delaware
Ezme (625 N. Market St., Wilmington): Chef Antimo DiMeo and the Bardea Restaurant Group opened this coastal Mediterranean restaurant across from Bardea Food & Drink. Inspired by cuisine from Turkey, Greece, and the Aegean coast, the menu encompasses mezze, raw-bar dishes, handmade breads, grilled seafood, and fire-driven preparations accented with herbs, citrus, and spices. Both à la carte and tasting-menu formats are available.
Gluten-free pizzas are generally less than exciting, as Craig LaBan notes, with textures ranging between pressboard and Styrofoam. At Barclay Pies, it’s not like that at all. Even the mozz sticks and their conventional pizzas are well worth a stop.
Wild Yeast Bakehouse, Wayne’s new sourdough bakery, has a living room vibe, writes Jenn Ladd. That makes sense, because the founder started baking out of his living room.
Saif Manna started baking during the pandemic in his Temple dorm room. He’s opening a brick-and-mortar home for his Levantine and Palestinian pastries, and tomorrow is the first day.
Ba Le Bakery in South Philly is practically synonymous with the city’s bánh mì scene. Now, writes Kiki Aranita, a third generation is expanding the business dramatically.
Two Sweet Boutique has had an interesting problem in its new location in Washington Township, writes Sarah Nicell. It’s selling out. Want that banana pudding? Get there early.
After four decades, The Frog Commissary Cookbook remains a Philadelphia icon — “our book,” says one acolyte. Contributor Devra Ferst takes a stroll down memory lane and winds up at the Commissary’s original location, where the current restaurant occupant bakes its carrot cake.
Oroshi, a new omakase restaurant at Broad and Lombard Streets, is part of a minitrend of faster, less expensive omakase experiences. The lights are bright and the decor is spare, but Kiki Aranita walked away happy after 90 minutes.
Here’s a twist: Local food brands such as Philly Pretzel Factory are working to accommodate consumers who are eating less and “protein-maxxing,” Olivia Prusky writes.
Craig visited an old fave — Porcini in Rittenhouse — and found the pastas have not lost a beat even after three decades. And yes, it’s still a BYOB.
Scoops
Chef Nic Macri and restaurant-ops specialist Suzanne O’Brien are proving you’re never too old experienced to open your first restaurant. They’re partnering with Stephen Simons on a spot just off 13th and Sansom in Washington Square West, and Macri describes the menu as “Philadelphia cooking with an Italian accent.”
Anh Em, a Vietnamese bar-restaurant and bar from husband-and-wife team Victor Nguyen and Anna Huynh, is aiming for an Aug. 8 grand opening at 1252 S. 21st St. in Point Breeze, the former Madira. Nguyen, a longtime Philadelphia hospitality veteran who bartended at Mad Mex in the late 1990s, co-owned a Chinatown bubble tea shop in the early 2000s and later spent 15 years managing Tango, is realizing a longtime goal of opening his own place. The roughly 45-seater will pair Vietnamese comfort food (pho and bánh xèo alongside home-style dishes) with a 20-seat bar pouring 24 local drafts and a small cocktail list.
Andorra Kitchen & Tap will join Andorra Shopping Center’s $32 million glow-up by Federal Realty, possibly in the fourth quarter. Spanning 6,900 square feet in the former Applebee’s, the restaurant is positioning as an all-day neighborhood gathering place serving breakfast/brunch, lunch, and dinner, with a full bar and dedicated coffee area for the morning. Owner Emmanouil Lagoudakis says he was drawn to Andorra-Roxborough for its “wonderful energy.”
Restaurant report
333 Belrose, one of the Main Line’s old-guard restaurants, has reopened after a dramatic renovation that flipped the bar with a dining room, opening up the layout. The menu is still “nothing too cerebral, nothing too crazy,” as chef Ross Essner told me, adding that there’s one dish he will never take off the menu.
Toll Man Joe’s, whose South Philly run was abbreviated by the pandemic, will resurface at the former Mixto on Pine Street near 12th. The owners hope to get the sports bar open in just a few weeks.
Pomelo Rooftop Terrace, atop the new Brandywine hotel in Radnor and counterpoint to Merrick’s Tavern off the lobby, will grand-open Aug. 8. It’ll be open year-round with indoor-outdoor seating. Weekend brunch begins Aug. 22.
The region’s last Brio Italian Grille, in Cherry Hill’s Towne Place at Garden State Park, closed abruptly Monday, two months after its Marlton location shuttered. The site 42Freeway joined the Facebook account A View From Evesham in first reporting that steakhouse Fogo de Chao will occupy the Cherry Hill location, citing township permits. A rep from Fogo declined my request for comment.
Briefly noted
Flash back to 2023, when chef Dionicio Jiménez and Mariangeli Alicea Saez of Cantina la Martina, La Baja, and the Cantina on the Go locations went to Mexico with Inquirer critic Craig LaBan and photographer Jessica Griffin for articles that won a James Beard Award in 2024. The restaurateurs are using part of that trip as inspiration for a five-day excursion to Oaxaca they’re planning for Oct. 30–Nov. 4. (LaBan and Griffin, who also met with Tequilas’ David Suro for a lesson in mezcal and tequila production during that 2023 trip, will sit this one out.) Limited to eight guests, the experience will feature family celebrations, cultural traditions, home-cooked meals, a private mezcal tasting, artisan visits, and special dinners, including one from Jiménez himself. It’s $2,000pp plus airfare. Details via cantina@cantinaonthego.com.
Nine Philadelphia bartenders will throw down Patrón Tequila-based cocktails in the Dirty Rocks Cocktail Competition from 3-7:30 p.m. Sunday at Fringe Bar (140 N. Columbus Blvd.). Attendees will determine the winner among Matt Welch (R&D), Kari Rosenfeld (Bourbon & Branch), Kevin Castro (Soufiane at the Morris), Roland Bui (Com.Unity Consulting), Damian Langarcia (Drams by Damian), Chris Harrop (Known Associates), Tony Jimenez (Static), Jackie Miller (Fringe Bar), and defending champion Jessica Stark (Trestle Inn). Also: a DJ, pizza truck, food and drink specials. Admission ($20) includes three tasting votes; VIP tickets are $45 and include a welcome cocktail, gift bag, and 10 votes. Cocktails: $5-$12. Tickets via DirtyRocks.com.
2nd Street Festival returns to Northern Liberties from noon-10 p.m. Sunday, transforming the stretch from Spring Garden to Girard Avenue into a festival with more than more than 50 restaurants and food trucks, 10 beer and cocktail gardens, two live music stages, and family activities.
❓Pop quiz
Name the brand that Wawa has partnered with on a hot-selling tote bag.
Owner Rayyan Kayyali sounded discouraged but not defeated when we caught up yesterday, more than two months after a gas explosion destroyed his Overbrook Park bagel bakery on the very morning of its reopening following another blast in March. He said he is waiting for a new burner pipe for the oven, and “so far, I haven’t seen a dime” from the insurance company. Meanwhile, lords Jeffrey Gladstone and Andy Rubin of Herbert Yentis & Co. say they have not charged him rent since the first explosion. Kayyali vows to rebuild and reopen.
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“This ruling supports the long-term health of our industry” in Pennsylvania, said CJ Ciarrochi, CEO and fourth-generation owner of Modern Mushroom Farms in Toughkenamon, Chester County, part of the Fresh Mushrooms Fair Trade Coalition supporting the case against the Canadians.
But one of the largest area growers called the decision a protectionist move that would enable aging U.S. farms to avoid upgrades and leave consumers with fewer choices.
“We sell our Canadian-grown mushrooms in the U.S. at a higher price than our U.S.-produced mushrooms — the polar opposite” of dumping, said Lewis Macleod, Kennett Square-based CEO of South Mill Champs mushrooms, which also has operations in Canada and Mexico.
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Final decisions in September could impose penalties that boost U.S. grocery stores’ cost to buy Canadian mushrooms. The Commerce Department’s calculations suggest anti-dumping and countervailing-duties penalties, if adopted, could add 10 to 15 cents per $1 to the price of Canadian mushrooms exported by Champs, owned by Eos Partners of New York; Highline Mushrooms, owned by Japan-based Sumitomo Corp.; and Windmill Mushrooms, owned by Toronto-based Instar Asset Management.
That would ease import competition for Pennsylvania growers, who produce more than two-thirds of the U.S. mushroom crop, mostlyin clusters of climate-controlled sheds in northern Berks County and southern Chester County.
At Modern Mushroom Farms, on Newark Road, Toughkenamon, Chester County, in 2020.Bob Williams For The inquirer
The Department of Commerce’s finding “is a win for fairness, competition and the future of American mushroom farming” and for “everyone to play by the same rules,” said Mark Currie, CEO of 99-year-old Giorgio Cos.’ food division, the largest of the coalition members.
Giorgio employs over 2,300 in Berks and Chester Counties and also buys from other growers such as Modern. Its corporate parent, Giorgi Global Holdings, is an international bottle and can maker with $5 billion in yearly sales.
While Champs’ Macleod predicted the Commerce Department’s final probes would find no dumping, Currie said he expects the review of sales records would find more evidence.
“We know the private-equity playbook: ‘Let’s drive the mom-and-pops out, jack prices, and then flip our companies” to outside investors and global companies, Currie said. “We called them on it. Enough’s enough.”
Sales to U.S. buyers peaked at around 1 billion pounds in 2019 but have since declined, according to the Mushroom Council,a national organization that promotes the crop. Canadian farms are gaining larger sales in a smaller U.S. market.
U.S. production peaked in 2015 at 811 million pounds and has fallen each year since, to 631 million pounds in 2025.
Fresh mushroom imports, mostly from Canada, have grown steadily since 2012, more than doubling to 208 million pounds in 2025.
The trade coalition says at least 10 U.S. mushroom farms have closed since 2022, including five in ChesterCounty and one in Berks County.
In its investigation, the Commerce Department compared the prices of premium-grade U.S. mushrooms to lesser-grade Canadian mushrooms and discounted low-priced U.S. mushrooms, Macleod said.
Canadian exports are winning U.S. customers not because Canadians are selling unfairly cheap but because Canadian farmstend to be new and efficient and grow an attractive product, he said.
Commerce began the investigation of alleged dumping and subsidies in January. The department’s latest finding follows its May “preliminary affirmative determination” that some Canadian mushroom farms were operating with an effective Canadian government subsidy of up to 5%.
South Mill Champs built an additional plant in 2023 in Chester County’s Elk Township, near the Maryland border, and now directly employs around 400 in the county, according to Macleod.
A worker is watering Crimini Mushrooms being grown at The Woodlands at Phillips Mushroom Farm in Kennett Square in 2022.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
The company also has added mushroom production near Winnipeg, Manitoba, and is building in Mexico’s Guanajuato state. It has a processing plant in Cambridge, Md., and has diversified into mushroom-based snacks and fruit storage and distribution.
Rival Giorgio has a joint-venture plant in Saltillo, northern Mexico, which has been selling to Mexican and U.S. buyers since the 1990s.
Many of Chester County’s Mexican mushroom workers are from Guanajuato. Thousands gained legal resident status and a path to citizenship in President Ronald Reagan’s 1980s amnesty program. Many have raised families and started businesses in the county. Nearly half Kennett Square’s population is Latino, according to the U.S. Census’ 2025 estimates.
Mario Gomez, of West Grove, cooks white mushrooms in butter, garlic, and salt to give out as free samples during the annual Mushroom Festival in Kennett Square in 2023.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
In recent years, growers have had more difficulty obtaining U.S. work permits for workers from other countries.
Miguel Morales, a Guatemalan labor contractor who served as employer of record for nearby Chester County mushroom growers from his base at an Oxford convenience store, was convicted in federal court in Philadelphia last year of hiring unauthorized workers and failing to collect and pay taxes for some of them. He was sentenced to a year in prison, plus $8 million in restitution to the IRS. The growers were not charged.
South Mill Champs’ Macleod said he and his neighbors, though they differ on trade and sanctions, all support efforts by the American Mushroom Institute to expand legal status for immigrant farm laborers.
But with government restrictions on labor growing instead of easing, he said, “we have had to limit our expansion in the U.S., owing to challenges with labor availability.”
Macleod says the key to the U.S. mushroom industry’s survival and growth is automation.
The “distraction” of the trade dispute has delayed South Mill Champs’ proposed investment in a new, fully automated mushroom farm at its Oxford facility, where there’s room to triple the size of the current facility, he said.
Oroshi Sushi Omakase opened on Broad Street last month, with startlingly low prices for the elegant format, where chefs slice fish and gently coax rice into nigiri, one piece at a time. Each nigiri constitutes one course in omakase dining.
Oroshi, which means “grated” in Japanese, serves omakases at dinner service at $68 for 15 courses, and lunch, for $48 and 10 courses (prices throughout this article are not inclusive of tax and tip). Dinner takes precisely 90 minutes and lunch takes 60 minutes.
Omakase deals can also be had at Uchi, whose happy hour omakase (served between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m. daily) costs $60 for nine courses. Oroshi’s omakase is even cheaper than the one at Yuhiro in Fishtown, which costs $78 per person and also takes 90 minutes to serve 15 courses. Most sushi restaurants in Oroshi’s price range focus on rolls and takeout, neither of which is available there.
The Otoro with Uni and Caviar at Oroshi on Thursday, July 16, 2026 in Philadelphia. Oroshi offers a $68 omakase.Monica Herndon / Staff PhotographerThe Hotate scallop at Oroshi on Thursday, July 16, 2026 in Philadelphia. Oroshi offers a $68 omakase.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer
Yuhiro is also where Oroshi general manager Jahang Zhang, 29, met chef Leo Liu, 27. Together, they run Oroshi, along with recently hired 27-year-old sushi chef Ming Lee (he also goes by Leo), who just moved to Philadelphia from New York City two weeks ago.
Oroshi is funded by a private investor, who was also once a sushi chef.
The exterior of Oroshi on Thursday, July 16, 2026 in Philadelphia. Oroshi offers a $68 omakase.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer
Liu, whose father was also a sushi chef, most recently worked at Hiroki (where the omakase costs $195 before a mandatory 20% service charge). Both he and Zhang were determined to share the omakase format and make it more approachable.
“I have worked in sushi restaurants since I was a kid — since I was about 14 years old. My dream was to open a sushi restaurant,” said Zhang, who worked every position in family-owned sushi restaurants at places like Rayaki in Franklin Mills and Sushi Man in Huntingdon Valley before going to manage Yuhiro, where Liu was working as a sushi chef.
The “zoomakase” trend, where single pieces of nigiri are served at a rapid pace and at much lower prices than traditional omakases, has been pervasive in New York, especially on the Lower East Side. But here in Philly, it never really took off. Just like the hand roll or temaki trend overwhelmed New York, but exists only in pockets here.
The King Salmon at Oroshi on Thursday, July 16, 2026 in Philadelphia. Oroshi offers a $68 omakase.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer
Oroshi isn‘t skimping on ingredients to make their pricing work, flying in fresh fish and wagyu from Japan like the other omakase-focused restaurants in Philly.
On a recent night, the mist of gold glitter that Liu sprayed upon the otoro nigiri with caviar met with gasps of glee. (Indeed, there is caviar at Oroshi, though a very small amount.) Oroshi is also playful: a nigiri on their opening menu that they’ve since phased out consisted of premium Bakkafrost salmon from Scotland, topped with mayonnaise and a tiny square of Kraft American cheese that was torched multiple times.
The salmon with American cheese at Oroshi on Thursday, July 16, 2026 in Philadelphia. Oroshi offers a $68 omakase.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer
At Oroshi, the lights are bright and the decor is spare. There are sake bottles and framed wagyu certifications behind the sushi bar. The former is just for decoration, as Oroshi is a BYOB. The latter is legitimate, indicative of the quality of their ingredients.
The Otoro with Uni and Caviar at Oroshi on Thursday, July 16, 2026 in Philadelphia. Oroshi offers a $68 omakase.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer
It’s not a place to linger, but they will allow for add-ons so you can repeat your favorite pieces of nigiri and these range between $7 to $14 per piece. Salmon, for instance, is $7. Otoro, or the most prized and fatty cut of tuna, is $14 a la carte. That same otoro nigiri add-on at Royal Sushi? $35.
Oroshi Sushi Omakase, 425 S Broad St., oroshisushiomakase.com. Hours: 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, 4:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
It’s been a long time since Samantha and Mike Garbose have been able to truly enjoy the same pizza together. Ever since Mike discovered an intolerance to gluten in 2019, their pizza dates have resulted in this married couple ordering a “his” and “hers” situation with separate pies.
Being relegated to the gluten-free alternative is not a fate Mike begrudges: “We both agree that each of us is totally entitled to the food that our diets and preferences warrant.” Then again, the contrast in quality between standard wheat-flour crusts and those made with gluten-free ingredients can be hard to ignore.
“At places that have both gluten [-full] and gluten-free pizza,” says Samantha, “usually I get something that looks phenomenal and Mike gets something that looks like a cardboard circle — and then I feel guilty about that.”
Gluten-free pizza with summer corn at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
But there would be no guilt tonight at Barclay Pies. Not once the first gluten-free pizza arrives at our table, its airy puff of a crust crisped around the edges to a tawny snap that beckons from under a crown of molten mozzarella topped with sweet summer corn, bacon, and chile peppers. Another pie arrives, this one zesty with a layer of red sauce bursting with bright California tomatoes and a whiff of oregano;fistfuls of cup-and-char pepperoni rounds arescattered over the top, then finished with honey and freshly ripped basil.
“Oh wow, that does not even look gluten-free!” says Samantha.
That’s been my exact reaction every time I’ve visited this pizzeria in Cherry Hill, initially with my daughter, Alice, who has celiac disease. Barclay also makes standard pizzas with glutinous flour, but it has generated a serious buzz within the gluten-free community over the course of its first year — for good reason.
Gluten-free pizza with pepperoni at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill.Tyger Williams / Staff PhotographerCo-owners Thomas “TJ” Hunton (left) and Daniel Romero at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
Barclay Pies was launched last summer by friends Thomas “TJ” Hunton, a regional director of operations for Shake Shack, and Daniel Romero, a vice president in engineering for Aramark. Its remarkably good pizzas, careful protocols to avoid cross contamination, and outgoing hospitality have helped change the narrative about what’s possible in a fast-casual setting with gluten-free options that go beyond just the pies.
Indeed, a mozzarella stick was the first bite to turn heads at our table. A safe-to-eat mozzarella stick is rare and coveted in the gluten-free community because deep fryers are common culprits for cross contamination. Not only are Barclay’s fryers completely gluten-free, these delicately hand-breaded sticks encrusted in potato starch, rice flour, and gluten-free panko crumbs are perfectly crisped. There is also a hunk of milky fresh mozzarella inside (another rarity: most use standard low-moisture varieties) that offered hot cheese-pull satisfaction from one side of the table to the next.
Gluten-free mozzarella sticks at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
The chicken wings were also superb, tender and juicy from a dry brine and par-bake, sealed inside a sheer crust of egg whites and rice flour, available in several good flavors, from punchy Buffalo sauce shaded with the richness of brown butter to lemon-pepper that sparkled in its craggy breading.
My encounters on previous visits with boneless chicken tenders were far less inspired, including some overly brined meat so rubbery they gave me a refund. But I was heartened by a 360-degree turnaround on this latest visit. The team recently reworked their recipe, and the final results — expertly verified by Hunton’s 6-year-old daughter, Amelia — are stellar: a perfectly tender baton of meat in a flavorful crust ready for various house-made dips. The tangy ranch with buttermilk and fresh herbs was a favorite, though classic honey mustard also did the trick.
Barclay Pies, located along Route 70 in Cherry Hill, has become known for its gluten-free pizzas.Craig LaBan / StaffJulie Romero (center right), of Cherry Hill, and Claire Ryder, of Collingswood, are enjoying some gluten-free pizza at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill on July 21.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
But pizza, of course, is the restaurant’s prime magnet. The duo decided to tackle the daunting gluten-free genre because Romero’s wife, Julie, has celiac disease. Making a gluten-free pizza worth the trouble is a major challenge. Gluten is a key protein found in certain grains — namely wheat, barley, and rye — that provides the structure to hold gas bubbles during fermentation and fosters a chewy, complex crust. Until recently, most GF versions of pizza I’ve tasted, whether made from alternative flours or cauliflower — and commonly outsourced in restaurants to avoid cross contamination — have been less than exciting, with textures ranging between pressboard and Styrofoam.
Barclay’s gluten-free pies are not that. The Romeros worked for nine months to perfect a high-hydration crust that puffs like a supple focaccia. With a light dusting of cornmeal adding a delicate bottom crunch and the Detroit-style crispy frico cheese band around the edges, the pie achieves textural contrasts this gluten-free dough itself would not otherwise form. The pan-based format is helpful to prevent cross contamination, but having grown up in the Midwest, where deep-crusted pies are common, I found these to be completely satisfying platforms for Barclay’s toppings. I was impressed by the mushroom pie that blends thin-shaved creminis with caramelized onions over a white base of seasoned heavy cream and mozzarella. I also enjoyed the locally inspired combo of fennel sausage, broccoli, and zesty cherry pepper hoagie relish, the addition of Cooper Sharp lending the base of molten mozzarella some extra South Philly flow.
The gluten-free broccoli and sausage pizza at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill also comes topped with hoagie pepper relish.Craig LaBan / Staff
I appreciate that Barclay is continuously tweaking its recipes, increasing the size of its fresh sausage chunks from the dried-out crumbles I found early on to the porky nuggets that dotted the roasted pepper-sausage pie we ordered on a traditional gluten-full round. That pizza had a perfectly fine, well-developed crust that was solid by neighborhood pizzeria standards. But the gluten-free pies are the draw, special enough to merit a regionwide pilgrimage.
Samantha Garbose agreed: “Usually when we get gluten-free food together, I’m pretending it’s good, but I actually thought [Barclay’s] gluten-free pizza was better than the one that had gluten.”
Standard gluten-full pizza with sausage and peppers at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
Barclay’s sales numbers are starting to bear this out. Hunton says they initially anticipated selling only 10 gluten-free pies a day to supplement their traditional pizza sales. But gluten-free pies now account for a third of the pizzas they bake.
“By the end of the first month we realized we’d really struck a chord,” says Hunton. “There’s a market need for a pizzeria that was truly inclusive.” Barclay also offers vegan pizzas with a cheese substitute made in-house from oat milk and tofu, deliberately avoiding nuts, an allergen ingredient commonly used in vegan cheese.
There’s still a catch. One reason this dough is so good is because it uses Caputo Fioreglut, an Italian gluten-free flour blend that contains wheat starch whose gluten proteins have been removed. Fioreglut performs closer to wheat flour than most GF blends and is considered safe for most celiacs, but not for those who have an allergy to wheat.
“We need to be pizza for everyone and we’re not fully there quite yet,” concedes Romero. “But that’s our North Star.”
The gluten-free broccoli and sausage pizza at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill also comes topped with hoagie pepper relish.Craig LaBan / Staff
The past few years have been a vibrant era for local experimentation with better gluten-free pizza alternatives, though few compare to Barclay Pies’ crust. Emmy Squared has long made gluten-free versions of its standard Detroit pies in Queen Village. Corio in University City has been working on a potato-based dough for thin-crusted counterparts to its Neapolitan-style pizzas. Gluten-free pasta specialist Settantatré has mastered an airy gluten-free focaccia base for the tomato pies it sells at local farmers market stands and its Berwyn market-cafe. Perhaps the best gluten-free pizza I’ve ever eaten was created by 13th Street Cocktails caterer Aaron Gordon for the exceptional pan pies at his Agricola in Passyunk Square, but this quirky corner pizza atelier is not a reliable source for frequent orders, limited now to only private charity events (but perhaps reopening to the public this fall).
Hunton and Romero have drawn on their professional experiences to quickly build Barclay Pies into the region’s most accessible hub for gluten-free pizza satisfaction. With its 50 indoor seats, 25 on its patio, and a bright pink-and-green makeover for the former Seasons Pizza, they’ve created a pleasant dining space with user-friendly systems for a cheerful and well-trained staff to operate efficiently while the owners, who are frequently there, also retain their day jobs. (Hunton, a Garces alum, still oversees operations at 70 Shake Shacks from New York to Virginia.)
Most importantly, gluten-free customers can take comfort in knowing protocols have been put in place to minimize risks of cross contamination. The gluten-free dough is mixed first thing each morning in a separate GF-only mixer, prepped at a separate station, run through a dedicated conveyor belt oven, and finished at a separate station with color-coded cutters and spatulas. The gluten-free pies are also proofed and cooked in round pans to clearly distinguish them from the gluten-full Detroit pies that are cooked in square pans.
Co-owner Thomas “TJ” Hunton making gluten-free pizza with summer corn at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
While there will never be 0% risk as long as products with gluten are made in-house, and that may not suit those who are especially sensitive, my daughter ate there three times without incident. Hunton and Romero also strongly believe there is a broader community benefit to offering both options, as opposed to being entirely gluten-free. This way groups of diners with diverse needs and preferences can feel seen and safely served together without being singled out.
This works especially well for the Garboses.
“We’d prefer to go to a restaurant that has great options for both of us,” says Mike. “Life is too short for either of us to eat bad food.”
But in the case of Barclay Pies, their “his and hers” pizza night had a different, guilt-free twist: “It’s been so long since Mike and I got to actually enjoy the same pizza,” says Samantha. “This was really a thrill.”
Gluten-free pizza with pepperoni at Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill, N.J., on Tuesday, July 21, 2026.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
Barclay Pies
450 Marlton Pike, Cherry Hill Township, N.J. 856-712-1900; barclaypies.com
Open Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 9:30 p.m.
Pizzas, $19-$24 (plus $4 for gluten-free crust).
Wheelchair accessible.
Menu is almost entirely gluten-free. Standard pizzas with gluten-full flour are made in the same facility but extreme care and protocols are taken to prevent cross contamination.
BYOB. There are several excellent liquor stores nearby. The restaurant also provides good-quality stemless plastic drinkware.
Menu Highlights: Gluten-free pizzas; mozzarella sticks; wings; chicken tenders.
Barclay Pies boxes in Cherry Hill.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer
