Category: Food

  • Introducing ‘Love at First Bite,’ The Inquirer Food Fest collaboration competition

    Introducing ‘Love at First Bite,’ The Inquirer Food Fest collaboration competition

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    LOVE AT FIRST BITE

    Introducing ‘Love at First Bite,’ The Inquirer Food Fest collaboration competition

    The pods are open. Twelve Philly chefs are looking for their perfect collab partner — but only one team will earn the title of Love at First Bite.

    Hosted by The Inquirer’s Ariane Datil, Food Fest Love at First Bite is a reality TV-inspired culinary matchmaking series, where Philly chefs enter the “pods” to find their perfect collaboration partner.

    Together, the matched chefs will create a dish for The Inquirer Food Fest. On November 14, at The Fillmore, they will compete for the coveted title of Love at First Bite.

    New episodes will be released twice a week leading up to Food Fest.

    Come back to watch the chefs “date” each other in the pods, find out who they’ve been paired with, and get a behind the scenes look at the chefs in the kitchen as they figure out what they’ll serve up for the Inquirer Food Fest.

    Like one of our favorite reality dating shows, after each episode of Love at First Bite you’ll get a chance to vote on different moments from the episode. More on that later. But first …

    Which chef are you most excited to see at the Food Fest?

    Are you coming to The Inquirer Food Fest?

    We’ll be back with episode two on October 3.

    Want to taste what these chefs are cooking up?

    Limited tickets are available for The Inquirer’s second ever Food Fest. Join us on Nov. 14, 2026, 11 a.m. for one day to taste it all.

    Staff Contributors

    • Producer, Host, Editor: Ariane Datil
    • Videographer: Gabe Coffey, Dorien Harris, Joey Augustin, Brian Nelson
    • Digital Editing: Sam Morris, Ray Boyd, Erin Reynolds
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  • Exclusive: Philly’s buzziest bar is expanding | Let’s Eat

    Exclusive: Philly’s buzziest bar is expanding | Let’s Eat

    Good day, friends. Cocktail destination Almanac, which has picked up national and local accolades in its first two years, has a new location on the way, and we’ll tell you about it.

    Also in this edition:

    • Soup for you: Black chefs gather for a summit to celebrate pepper pot, the Philadelphia delicacy.
    • Senior moment: Some retired poker buddies are on a quest to find the best cheesesteak they can find.
    • News: Read on for word of a new restaurant in West Chester and a chef’s homecoming in Cape May.

    — Mike Klein

    If someone forwarded you this email, sign up for free here.

    Second act for Philly’s buzziest bar

    No bar has received the attention that’s surrounded Old City’s Almanac in its first two years. Now the team is branching out with a two-level cocktail destination near Rittenhouse Square. Read on for the exclusive.

    Chefs are giving pepper pot its due

    Black chefs gathered recently at the home kitchen of Shola Olunloyo to celebrate, revive, and update pepper pot, Philadelphia’s signature soup. Don’t call it a comeback, as Craig LaBan writes.

    Seniors on a cheesesteak quest

    After playing poker at a 55-plus community in Moorestown, a group of retirees decided to raise the stakes steaks. They’ve embarked on a quest to find the ultimate cheesesteak. Sarah Nicell joined them on an outing to discuss rolls and cholesterol.

    About that Phillie Faux-natic on Broad Street

    Talk about wild cards: The Sprouts Farmers Market on South Broad Street wanted to create a fall display that looks like the Phillie Phanatic. But, as Beatrice Forman writes, what is got was an artistic swing and a miss.

    Is there a Michelin price bump?

    The Michelin Guide has loomed over Philadelphia’s restaurant scene for the last year. Charmaine Runes and our data team wondered if prices had risen as a result. They compared menus before and after restaurants received accolades, and here are the findings.

    The best thing Kiki Aranita ate last week

    Caramelle, a candy-shaped pasta, gives late-summer corn a rich, funky foil in huitlacoche and black truffle at Fiorella in the Italian Market. Kiki Aranita explains how this Italian-meets-Mexican connection works so deliciously.

    Scoops

    Chef John Brandt-Lee, who oversees Bar Avalon locations in Bryn Mawr and West Chester (as well as one of the funniest Instagram chef accounts around), is targeting November for the opening of Beef & Bird Public House at 30 N. Church St., the onetime firehouse that was last Slow Hand. Brandt-Lee says the approachable menu, a departure from his decades of Italian cuisine, will emphasize beef and chicken, including rotisserie chicken, sandwiches, entrees, and elaborate, family-style meat boards.

    Carl Messick, chef-owner of Cape May’s Grana BYOB, will take over restaurant operations at the town’s landmark Peter Shields Inn on Oct. 7, returning to the property where he worked for 11 years before opening Grana in 2022. Messick and wife Megan plan modest upgrades while restoring its focus on high-end dining; Grana will be the more relaxed of the two. He also plans to tailor Peter Shields’ offseason business to local diners. “The goal is to remind people what Peter Shields Inn is all about,” he said.

    Restaurant report

    Palm Vintage, across from City Hall, is two concepts in one: an airy cafe serving espresso drinks, sandwiches, and bagels by day, and a cocktail lounge by night. Kiki Aranita finds sushi rolls and sashimi sets rivaling some of Philly’s best.

    Have Philadelphia’s health inspections intensified lately? The city says no.

    YouTube star Ms. Rachel sent crowds to Blended Joe Coffee Bar in Washington Township, Gloucester County, with a social media post. Owner Eric Powell didn’t even know it at first, as Sarah Nicell reports. His phone was dead.

    Mel’s Italian in Belmont Hills, which rebooted earlier this year but closed soon after, is on the market. Asking price, which had been as high as $675,000, is now $549,000.

    Briefly noted

    How to have a perfect Philly day, according to the woman who makes a perfect latte. Beatrice Forman hangs out with Zoe Tanner (shown above), who works her magic at Loretta’s, on Head House Square.

    Sorrentino Pasta & Provisions in Ambler may have closed, but Rich Sorrentino’s ravioli is still available. He’s taken the business into the wholesale realm.

    A popular food truck from a Camden County nonprofit provides job training for people with disabilities. Lacey Latch explains that Three Little Birds Cafe was initially envisioned to serve primarily as a mobile advertisement for Arc of Camden County, but has evolved into something much larger.

    Actor Eric Winter (The Rookie) will sign bottles of Palm Republic rum, which he cofounded, beginning at noon Saturday at the Fine Wine & Good Spirits store at 2426 Chemical Rd., Plymouth Meeting. Bottles go on sale when the store opens at 9 a.m.; aged rum is $44.99 and silver rum is $34.99, with a two-bottle limit. Attendees must purchase the rum at the store that day, and Winter will not sign other items.

    Habit Burger previews its new Jenkintown-area location at Baederwood Shoppes (1621 The Fairway) with free meals to the first 200 guests at 11:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Official debut is Monday.

    Standard Tap’s annual Sausage Fest is on through Oct. 4 at the Northern Liberties mainstay with 10 house-made sausages from chef Patrick Bones inspired by flavors from Portugal, China, Scotland, Thailand, Germany, France, Morocco, the Chesapeake, and Philadelphia. Order them all on one platter for $100, and you get a souvenir T-shirt.

    A Taste of Britain, the Wayne tea room, marks its 35th anniversary throughout October with a $35 three-course prix fixe menu, with a cut going to the Wayne Senior Center. The menu includes a choice of salad or scone, one of several sandwiches, a toastie or frittata, and orange posset or warm gingerbread for dessert. ATOB is also discounting its full afternoon tea for $35, down from $40, Mondays through Thursdays during October.

    Provenance in Society Hill hosts Chicago’s similarly Michelin-starred Esmé for a one-night collab Thursday. Among courses from chefs Nicholas Bazik and Jenner Tomaska: fresh oyster paired with white sweet potato ice cream, celery hot sauce, peanut miso, and caviar; scallop prepared with black truffle emulsion and Meyer lemon; and king crab tart. Seatings at 5:30 and 8:30 p.m., via OpenTable, are $225pp.

    Conshohocken’s St. Mary & St. Mercurius Coptic Orthodox Church will host an Egyptian block party featuring homemade food, crafts, and family activities from 11 a.m.-7 p.m. this weekend at Fifth and Fayette Streets. Details are here.

    Hi-Lo Taco in Washington Square West will send proceeds to benefit the Jefferson Community Health Collaborative as it marks National Taco Day from 4-9 p.m. Tuesday with $7 double-decker taco trays, half-price appetizers, and $6 house margaritas.

    Kalaya in Fishtown is teaming up with London’s Michelin-starred AngloThai for a one-night collaboration dinner Oct. 12, bringing chef John Chantarasak to Kalaya to cook with chef-owner Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon. It’s $165pp plus tax and tip, booked via Resy.

    Delicious City’s Hoagie Throwdown was postponed last weekend due to the severe weather. All tickets (as well as any you might order) will be honored on the new date: Oct. 25 at Other Half Brewing in Fishtown from noon-4 p.m..

    ❓Pop quiz

    Cheesecake Factory has been going viral for a particular dish, and it’s been driving staff bonkers. What is it?

    A) Cajun salmon

    B) Ultimate Red Velvet Cake Cheesecake, done à la mode

    C) shepherd’s pie

    D) a burger the size of a watermelon

    Find out if you know the answer.

    Ask Mike anything

    Are there any good vegetarian restaurants in the Center City area? I know many can adapt to vegetarian — but not all — and sometimes, I just want to go to a place where I don’t have to work too hard to figure out what I can eat. — Dorothy V.

    There are the upscale vegan places like Vedge and Charlie Was a Sinner, as well as the more casual Bar Bombon, all in Washington Square West. For Chinese, there is Unit Su Vege near the Art Museum. My colleague Kiki Aranita enjoyed the vegetarian dishes at Meet Harbin, a new Chinese spot at 15th and Sansom that replaced Cheng Du and Su Xing House. If you’re looking for something on the quirkier side, there’s Monster Vegan in Washington Square West, which has a “horror show” theme. And how seasonal!

    ➡️ Readers offer additional recommendations for overall restaurants near Lantern Theater, 10th and Market Streets (“Let’s Eat,” Sept. 16), and Chinatown seems to be a popular option. Suet L. suggests EMei for Sichuan, Ting Wong for “no-frills Cantonese roast meats, rice plates, and Hong Kong noodle soups,” and Spice-C for “homey hand-drawn noodles,” while Susan H. has a soft spot for Tom’s Dim Sum.

    📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

    By submitting your written, visual, and/or audio contributions, you agree to The Inquirer’s Terms of Use, including the grant of rights in Section 10.

  • One of Philly’s elite cocktail bars is opening a bigger second act near Rittenhouse Square

    One of Philly’s elite cocktail bars is opening a bigger second act near Rittenhouse Square

    The team behind one of Philadelphia’s most acclaimed new cocktail bars is preparing a larger second act in Rittenhouse.

    Almanac co-owners Vy To and Victor Ng and bar manager Rob Scott are building a two-level bar in the former Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co. space at 112 S. 18th St. A name and opening date have not been announced. Much more work needs to be done, they said, as the space has been vacant since Franklin left in 2021. It later reopened behind the 1715 Rittenhouse Hotel. The new bar is between Cleavers and Byblos and its upstairs lounge, Vango.

    Bar manager Rob Scott making a drink at Almanac’s opening in November 2024.Steven M. Falk / Staff Photographer

    To, Ng, and Scott have been riding high on public acclaim since they opened the 23-seat, Japanese-influenced Almanac in 2024 above its sister restaurant, Ogawa Sushi & Kappo, at 310 Market St. in Old City.

    With Scott at the stick, Almanac was named a 2026 James Beard Award semifinalist for Best New Bar. Bon Appétit included it among America’s nine best new bars of 2025, while The Inquirer has called it one of Philadelphia’s most original cocktail bars.

    To, Ng, and Scott will be partners in the new venture. They started working together in 2024, when the Drexel Food Lab connected To and Ng with Danny Childs, the James Beard Award-winning author of Slow Drinks. Childs recruited Scott, his former colleague at Cherry Hill’s Farm & Fisherman, to run Almanac.

    The Rittenhouse bar will divide its personality between two floors, and each will carry its own name. The long, narrow lower level will be calm, dark, and intimate, with a cocktail menu built around a single theme that could remain for 12 to 18 months. Upstairs will be brighter, livelier, and designed to handle more customers.

    Its largely fixed beverage menu upstairs will rely on draft, frozen, freezer-door, nitro, and shaved-ice cocktails. Scott said he hopes to avoid conventional shakers, mixing tins, and jiggers upstairs. Most preparation would occur before service, allowing bartenders to pour and garnish drinks quickly while spending more time with customers.

    “You can return in a week, a month, or a year, and it will probably still be there,” Scott said of the upstairs menu selections.

    The new approach is partly a response to Almanac’s economics. Its hyperseasonal menu and fermentation and preservation work can require hours of preparation, but its size limits capacity. Scott said Almanac’s cocktails cost $19 to $23 partly because labor and ingredient expenses must be divided among relatively few guests.

    The new project would preserve Almanac’s distinctive, intimate experience downstairs while increasing volume upstairs to allow more guests to experience Scott’s hospitality without a reservation, To said. Kitchen and preparation employees would work across both floors. The Drexel Food Lab is developing a small-bites menu.

    Rob Scott locks the door at the future bar at 112 S. 18th St. on Sept. 23.Michael Klein / Staff

    Behind Bars Agency of Oslo is designing a customized downstairs system allowing two bartenders to work independently in the narrow room. Philadelphia designer Ian Chapin, whose resumé includes Middle Child Clubhouse, R&D, and Pub & Kitchen, is handling the interiors; Kylie Silvestri, who worked on Almanac, Ogawa, and Little Water, will oversee graphic design.

    The partners plan to divide the downstairs room into smaller lounge areas while preserving sight lines to the bar. Upstairs will feature custom lighting and metalwork. Scott described the contrasting rooms as “two sides of the same coin.”

    To said the larger project is intended to turn the hospitality practiced at 12-seat Ogawa and Almanac into a more durable business with enough revenue to create long-term jobs.

    “We want our employees to be able to build careers and have a sustainable lifestyle if they choose to remain in this world with us,” she said.

    Workers carrying out tables from Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co.’s location at 112 S. 18th St. in May 2021. Franklin later reopened nearby.Yong Kim / Staff Photographer
  • Sprouts wanted a Phanatic-themed fall display. It created a monster instead

    Sprouts wanted a Phanatic-themed fall display. It created a monster instead

    The new display at the Sprouts Farmers Market on Broad Street looks as if someone was forced to draw the Phanatic both from memory and out of spite.

    That’s the best description I can give of the haggard green giant that was erected outside the supermarket in mid-September.

    Rotund, snouted, and wearing a pinstripe baseball tee, the creature has all the trappings of our dear Phillie Phanatic, the Galapagos-born flightless bird who reps the Phillies. Somewhere along the way, however, the details got lost in translation.

    “That is not the Phanatic. What the f—?” wrote user @JamesPhl96 on X on Sept. 19 above two photos of the Sprouts monster staring unblinkingly into the night. Viewed over 113,000 times, the post has helped the figure take on a life of its own as equal parts landmark, monster, and friend-shaped photo-op.

    “The Sprouts Phanatic fall display can’t hurt you. He’s not real,” one X user wrote, attributing the advice to his therapist.

    “That’s my sleep paralysis demon,” wrote another. The creature has also been called many names, including — but not limited to — the “Fauxnatic,” “Phil E. Guy,” and Phrank, aka the Phanatic’s weird cousin.

    Faisal Khan, who has managed the Broad Street Sprouts location since December, is quick to defend his store’s creation as “beautiful” and not at all scary.

    The knockoff Phanatic was designed by Four Seasons Produce, a national produce distributor based in Ephrata that delivers to Sprouts locations in the Philadelphia region, Khan said.

    The 5’7″ Phanatic knockoff outside the Sprouts Farmers Market at 1000 S. Broad St. does not fit into his baseball jersey.Beatrice Forman / Staff

    The company (not to be confused with the landscapers) creates seasonal displays for the store every fall, according to Khan. Four Seasons retains full creative control, he said. They’ve mostly stuck to piles of artfully arranged pumpkins and other gourds — until now.

    “They kind of went all out this year,” Khan said. “I was very happy.”

    The Fauxnatic has quirks beyond his lump-like figure and piercing googly eyes.

    The 5′7″ topiary is made of hay that was dyed green. It flakes off like dead skin. Measuring at 76 inches around at its widest point, the creature also cannot be contained by a baseball jersey. The back is held together by string so the Fauxnatic does not flash the general public, even if he does come close to mooning us. (Rest assured: two pumpkins are placed where his butt cheeks would be.)

    His baseball tee doesn’t even bear the Phillies logo. The Fauxnatic had a hat, Khan conceded, but it blew away in the wind.

    Khan says the creature has been a boon for the Sprouts location, which was the organic supermarket chain’s first to open in Philly at 1000 S. Broad St. in 2018. Since the day the monster went up, Khan has watched what he estimated as “100-plus people” stop by to take photos.

    “It’s mostly families coming with their kids,” Khan said. The Fauxnatic “brings a lot of foot traffic in.”

    Shawn Erwin and her 5-year-old daughter Skylar are one of those families. Erwin and her daughter took photos with the creature at the end of an early evening grocery run Thursday. They giggled the entire time.

    The Phillie Phanatic outside the Broad Street Sprouts Farmers Market lacks branded merch. He had a hat at some point, the store’s manager said, but it blew away.Beatrice Forman /

    Skylar, for her part, thinks he looks just like the Phanatic. Her mom isn’t so sure.

    “He looks like he’s made from hay,” Erwin said. “What happened to his hat?”

    Khan said the store plans to keep the Fauxnatic up through Halloween, at which point he will be swapped out for a holiday motif.

    “I’m honestly surprised,” Khan said. “You know we’re just a grocery store, right?”

  • Sorrentino Pasta closed its Ambler restaurant and shop to pivot to wholesale

    Sorrentino Pasta closed its Ambler restaurant and shop to pivot to wholesale

    Sorrentino Pasta & Provisions may have closed its Ambler restaurant and market last month, but owner Rich Sorrentino is not getting out of the pasta business. He is concentrating on the wholesale operation that had grown alongside the storefront while developing a new shop nearby.

    Sorrentino’s business, which opened in 2021 on Butler Avenue near Ridge, combined a dining room, pasta workshop, and Italian specialty market in a narrow storefront next to Alice Bakery. You could walk in and buy fresh and dried pastas by the pound as well as focaccia, oils, vinegars, tinned fish, and cheeses from a small refrigerator. But insiders knew about the 15 restaurant seats under a blackboard in the front, where Sorrentino offered a changing menu of dishes such as pappardelle al cinghiale, casarecce with ’nduja, carbonara, and garganelli with pesto, pistachios, breadcrumbs, and arugula.

    Rich Sorrentino, at his Ambler workroom, says he started pasta making years ago “as a kind of relief — something therapeutic.”William Thomas Cain / For The Inquirer

    Wholesale pasta has been Sorrentino’s bread and butter for the last three years, especially after he acquired a small garage on a nearby side street, which he turned into a production facility. He supplies local restaurants and country clubs.

    Sorrentino said the wholesale business offered greater potential than a restaurant — as well as the attraction of a Monday-through-Friday schedule.

    “I can’t be in two places at once,” he said. “I weighed the options between the restaurant and the wholesale business and which one I wanted to keep going.”

    Bags of Sorrentino’s dried fusilli and capanelle before they are boxed up and sent to stores. William Thomas Cain / For The Inquirer

    Locally, pasta makers have moved in both directions as their businesses have grown. Scaramuzza’s Pasta Products closed its Clifton Heights walk-in store in 2016 to concentrate on wholesale before later restoring retail at a larger facility, while Settantatré expanded from a combined Milmont Park shop and production space into a larger Berwyn store with a separate gluten-free production facility and event space nearby.

    For Sorrentino, the decision ended a five-year run for a business that grew out of his pasta-making hobby. “I come from a big Italian family,” he said. Before opening the shop, he was technical director for a large corporate chain. Given all the travel, “I found myself making pasta as a kind of relief — something therapeutic,” he said.

    The hobby eventually took over a room adjoining his kitchen, and small gatherings grew into large dinner parties. “I’d always had the idea of opening a fresh pasta shop,” he said. “Going to Italy as much as I do, I’ve seen a lot of cool concepts over there, and I always thought, ‘Man, this would be cool to do in a town like Ambler.’” He acquired the Butler Avenue building during the pandemic and decided to take the chance. He recently sold the property.

    Nick Pfeiffer seals a bag of pasta at Sorrentino in Ambler.William Thomas Cain / For The Inquirer

    Meanwhile, the wholesale operation continues, though Sorrentino says at 1,200 square feet, he is running out of room. With the closing of the restaurant kitchen, he cannot produce and package sauces for now.

    Sorrentino’s line covers both dry and fresh pastas, as well as frozen ravioli and his top seller, potato gnocchi.

    The company makes private-label ravioli and gnocchi for Weavers Way, the co-op. Sorrentino products are also sold at Corner Stoop in Philadelphia, Dave’s Backyard Farm in Huntingdon Valley, Tredici Market in Wayne, Sam’s Italian Market in Willow Grove, and Skippack Italian Market. The company alternates Saturdays between the Conshohocken and East Falls Farmers Markets and sets up at Horsham’s on Sundays.

    Nick Pfeiffer (left), Nais Ryan, and Matthew Brunetto (right) work on mushroom ravioli at Sorrentino Pasta.William Thomas Cain / For The Inquirer

    Expanding retail availability is the next step, Sorrentino said. He is building out a small shop nearby; he’s not sure of the timeline.

    “We’re only now slowly getting into the retail world,” he said. “We’ve purposefully been slow about pushing that because we were trying to focus on our restaurant clients. But it’s something we’re going to focus on, now that the store is closed.”

  • Did Philly restaurants get more expensive after Michelin recognition? We checked the checks.

    Did Philly restaurants get more expensive after Michelin recognition? We checked the checks.

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    The Michelin guide now looms over the restaurant scene. Have prices risen as a result?

    We compared menus before and after restaurants received their accolades. Here’s what we found.

    While The Inquirer has celebrated our home as a first-rate food city for years, Philadelphia just received its first Michelin stars last fall. However, that long wait for international recognition could have been a blessing in disguise. When restaurants receive their first star, higher menu prices seem to follow, even when accounting for general inflation, according to a 2023 study.

    Part of these price hikes could come down to inflation. The price of essentials has largely increased, and so, too, has the bill when eating out – by around 2.5%, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. “Some of any increase in the restaurants’ prices [is] due to conditions in the economy that [are] pushing up all prices,” said Tom Weiss, professor emeritus at the University of Kansas and coauthor of the 2023 research paper.

    “The impact of the star is the increase in the restaurants’ prices above the inflationary effect.”

    We wanted to see whether prices in Philly’s restaurant scene have been impacted by either inflation or Michelinflation. The Inquirer collected menus from last fall, before the Michelin Guide bestowed its accolades, and compared them with current prices. Here’s what we found.

    Dalessandro's, Sally$15
    El Chingon$20
    Del Rossi's$18
    Fiorella$26
    Pizzeria Beddia$83
    Her Place Supper Club$97
    Friday Saturday Sunday$185
    Provenance$225
    $50
    $100
    $150
    $200
    $250
    $300
    $350
    +7%
    +10%
    +18%
    0%
    +13%
    +9%
    +3%
    0%
    +42%
    +13%
    0%
    0%
    +11%
    0%
    Dalessandro's, Sally$16
    El Chingon$22
    Del Rossi's$21
    Fiorella$26
    Pizzeria Beddia$85
    Her Place Supper Club$110
    Friday Saturday Sunday$205
    Provenance$225
    $50
    $100
    $150
    $200
    $250
    $300
    $350
    2025
    2026
    • Last year, Friday Saturday Sunday offered an eight-course tasting menu – amuse bouches and dessert included – for $185 per person. The restaurant won a Michelin star in November, which came at no surprise to our readers.

    • Today, an eight-course dinner at the intimate award-winning Rittenhouse restaurant costs 11% more, at $205 per head.

    • Two other Philly restaurants received a Michelin star last fall: Provenance and Her Place Supper Club.

    • Provenance’s seafood-focused tasting menu costs the same today as it did last year: $225 per person for a spread of 20 to 25 dishes.

      Her Place Supper Club’s seven-course set menu, on the other hand, increased by 13% – from $97 to $110 per person.

    • Both Her Place’s and Friday Saturday Sunday’s price changes increased more than the 2.5% for inflation but were lower than the research paper’s average of a 30% increase.

      We reached out to all three Michelin-starred restaurants, but they declined to comment.

    • Stars aren’t the only Michelin distinction a restaurant can earn. Bibs are bestowed on establishments that serve “high-quality food at great value,” according to the Michelin Guide.

      We looked at menu items from six of the 10 restaurants that received a Bib Gourmand to see if prices had changed.

    • El Chingon’s skirt steak tacos – tacos arrachera tatemada – went up from $20 to $22. Chef and owner Juan Carlos Aparicio says he had to adjust the menus because “everything went up: gas, sugar, eggs.”

      “Last year we used to buy cases of arrachera, and per case was between $450 and $500,” said Aparicio. “Now it’s over $1,000.”

    • On the higher end of the Bib Gourmand price spectrum, Pizzeria Beddia’s hoagie room experience ticked up slightly, from $83 to $85.

      The guide also celebrated a local delicacy by naming three of the 10 Bib recipients cheesesteak shops. Last year, a Del Rossi’s cheesesteak stood at $18. Now, the sandwich costs $21.

    • Similarly, a cheesesteak from Dalessandro’s went from $15 last year to $16 this year. Same for a red pie from Sally.

      Most of the Bib Gourmand recipients for which we have data on old prices only showed increases proportional to inflation or by $1 or $3.

    • Finally, we gathered previous and current tasting menus from eight of the 12 Philly restaurants on the Michelin Guide’s Recommended list. These restaurants were recognized for their good-quality meals that were “not quite star or Bib level,” according to Michael Ellis, the former international director of Michelin Guide books, on its website.

    • Four of these Recommended restaurants increased the price of their fixed or tasting menus since last fall, including Hiroki, which closed in August.

      Suraya and Kalaya both jumped from the mid-$70s up to $85.

    • Last year, Honeysuckle offered a four-course prix fixe menu for $95. After a restructure, it now offers an increased six-course tasting menu for $135.

      Omar Tate, chef and co-owner of Honeysuckle, said that staff found themselves frequently adding additional courses to guests’ meals. “We weren’t charging people for this. [We were] basically gifting all these dishes and not profiting from it at all,” he said. This started conversations about formally switching to a tasting menu – long before the restaurant received Michelin recognition. But he wanted to wait until after January, once the busy season had slowed down.

      “It was kind of like perfect alignment and perfect timing,” said Tate, “but it was an economical and experiential decision.”

    Is it more expensive to eat at local restaurants once they receive Michelin recognition? The short answer is – on average – yes, but it’s hard to say if accolades alone are the driving force behind the bigger bill. Inflation almost definitely plays a role. A change in the chef, for example, could also contribute to a change in menu prices, as could “how much competition there was in their location,” according to Weiss.

    Price increases can also lag behind Michelin awards. “Anecdotal information for a few places indicates the big jump would take place in the second and third years,” said Weiss.

    story continues after advertisement

    While Michelin-recognized restaurants might have the perception of a more valuable dining experience, some restaurant owners do not feel the need to change their prices to reflect that. “We just didn’t believe that if we increased the prices, it was going to make us a better restaurant,” said Aparicio, chef and owner of El Chingon. “We already do what we do best, and we wanted to keep it that way.”

    The Michelin Guide will once again celebrate restaurants across the Northeast at a ceremony on Dec. 14. Our advice: make those reservations now, just in case the prices rise again.

    Correction

    This story was later updated to remove River Twice’s price increase of $75 to $85. Their initial price was collected from January 2025 instead of Fall 2025.

    Methodology

    The Inquirer saved menus from restaurants in early November 2025, before the Michelin Guide revealed stars, Bib Gourmands, or recommendations. For any restaurants for which we didn’t anticipate recognition, we used the Internet Archive’s Wayback Machine. We then used these prices to compare against the current menus as of September 2026.

    For the restaurants that won a Michelin star or were on the Recommended list, we used their tasting menus as the primary point of comparison. For the Bib Gourmand restaurants, we looked at some of their most popular dishes. We excluded restaurants for which we could not find menus from before the Michelin Guide announced its awards.

    Staff Contributors

    • Design and development: Charmaine Runes and Sam Morris
    • Data and reporting: Aileen Clarke and Charmaine Runes
    • Editing: Sam Morris
    • Illustration: Fortunate Joaquin
    • Copy Editing: Addam Schwartz

    Subscribe to The Philadelphia Inquirer

    Our reporting is directly supported by reader subscriptions. If you want more journalism like this story, please subscribe today

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  • How to have a Perfect Philly Day according to Zoe Tanner, the brains behind Loretta’s viral lattes

    How to have a Perfect Philly Day according to Zoe Tanner, the brains behind Loretta’s viral lattes

    Zoe Tanner’s handiwork is immediately recognizable: Cloudlike cold foam puffs flecked with sprinkles that adorn the lattes at Loretta’s, the Society Hill cafe at the epicenter of Philly’s little treat boom.

    When Bloomsday and Green Engine Coffee Co. co-owners Zachary Morris and Kelsey Bush opened Loretta’s at 410 S. Second St. in 2024, its menu of nostalgia-driven pastries — fudgy Cosmic Brownies and flaky pop-tarts, to name a few — was all anyone could talk about. Now, lines snake out of the periwinkle storefront on weekends as customers wait for a taste of Tanner’s seasonal lattes, which have racked up thousands of views on TikTok and Instagram.

    Loretta’s sells about 200 specialty lattes on a busy day, Tanner estimates.

    This September, Tanner spent hours in Loretta’s basement making bite-size uncrustables to top the coffee shop’s PB&J latte, which comes with Concord grape syrup and a peanut butter cold foam. In May, the drink du jour was a black-raspberry-maple concoction topped with a nutty tahini whip and sprinkles shaped like spring flowers. Next month, Tanner is whipping up a banana latte decorated with pretzel rod ghosts. Proceeds from each creation have gone to local charities such as ACCT Philly and the Eagles Autism Foundation.

    “Say what you want about the girls that come in from Instagram, but they’re making a difference by buying a drink,” Tanner said. “That matters to me.”

    Tanner, 31, serves as the operations director of all three of Bush and Morris’ businesses, splitting her days between training staff, managing inventory, and developing latte recipes. Barista-ing at Loretta’s, however, is the best part of her job.

    “I love connecting with people,” said Tanner. “And coffee is so cool because it goes through so many processes to get into your cup, but everyone who touches it is really important, from the grower to the roaster to the barista.”

    Zoe Tanner pipes marshmallow whip onto a speciality latte at Loretta’s, a coffee shop in Society Hill.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Tanner, who moved to Philly in 2015 from a small town in Maryland, fell into coffee by working at Starbucks while attending the University of Valley Forge. After, she worked her way up from being a barista at La Colombe’s Dilworth Park location to account manager for the local coffee chain, where she was responsible for convincing mom-and-pop shops to use the brand’s products. She started at Loretta’s when they opened.

    The job fuels Tanner’s second career as a self-made musician who writes, records, and mixes all her music. This fall, Tanner will release her fifth album as Mommy Rockstar Bitch, the grunge persona that has helped Tanner find power in her role as the self-proclaimed “mom friend.”

    Tanner said working at Loretta’s keeps her grounded like the novelist Charles Bukowski, who kept his job as a mailman during his early days as a writer. It’s also brought her unexpected fame.

    Zoe Tanner plays guitar in the living room of her apartment in Olde Kensington.Rowan Ohara

    “I was running in Fishtown the other day when a group stopped me and were like, ‘Can we take a picture with you? You’re the Loretta’s girl,’” Tanner said. “Never did I think coffee would be how I build my brand.”

    So, how does Philly’s most famous barista spend a perfect day in the city? It involves sharing human food with her dog, running a half marathon, and mixing music from her home in Olde Kensington.

    5 a.m.

    I generally wake up at 5 a.m. with my dog Barrett — a 6-year-old German shorthaired pointer — barking at me to give him pets. I automatically smile; one of my biggest accomplishments in life is that he’s so well-behaved because GSPs are such a tough breed.

    After a quick morning walk with Barrett, I’ll head to a 6 a.m. Heated Power Strength yoga class at Monarch Yoga in Kensington. I go without having any coffee, which is so unnatural for me, and then when I get out, I feel so awake and alive. The music is also so upbeat and fun for a strength class, but since it’s a yoga studio, [the instructor] still gives us a spiritual concept to focus on.

    Tanner likes to share food with Barrett, her 6-year -old German shorthaired pointer. His favorites include banh mi from Ba Le and pizza from Pizzeria Beddia.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    7:30 a.m.

    Next, I’ll grab Barrett for a long walk that’s mostly about him being the center of attention. People might say that I’m a bad dog mom for this, but I share my food with him.

    I’m not even embarrassed by this because Barrett has good taste: When we go on long runs, we always stop at Ba Le Bakery in South Philly for a lemongrass and beef banh mi, and when we walk down Frankford Avenue, he will literally yank me across the street for Huda Burger. I even gave him a Pizzeria Beddia birthday party. I promise he’s a healthy dog.

    Anyway, on our long walks we will either stop at Rival Brothers Coffee for a short Americano and so Barrett can look out the window, or Càphê Roasters to split a fried chicken sandwich. It’s funny because I used to joke about never wanting to be a regular somewhere, but now I walk into these places and it feels like I’m talking to my siblings. It’s a beautiful way to start my morning.

    The inside of Càphê Roasters in Kensington, where Tanner and her dog Barrett are regulars.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    10 a.m.

    After also feeding Barrett real dog food, I head down to Loretta’s to clock in for a shift. On a perfect day, work involves barista-ing a little bit, doing latte research, and filming content for social media.

    All of our specialty lattes involve a specialty syrup and cold foam, and they take about three iterations each to get right. I love it because I feel like I’m in a lab, trying to find the right balance of fun and sweetness without just serving people sugar just because it looks pretty … [Kelsey Bush] and I are both very anti-unicorn frappuccinos.

    As director of operations at Loretta’s, Zoe Tanner says the best parts of her job include working on latte recipes and barisa-ing.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    At some point, I will stop for lunch. I’m in a protein era right now, so I like to order the Emma, which I equate to Loretta’s version of a chicken Caesar salad wrap. I also love our Rice Krispies Treats. They’re just perfectly done. Packaged Rice Krispies Treats are always so dry.

    2 p.m.

    It is officially time for me to go on a long run — 13.1 miles at minimum because I’m a distance diva.

    My go-to route is river to river: I’ll run from my apartment to Penn Treaty Park, down to the Headhouse Shambles, across South Street to Schuylkill Park, up to the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and back.

    While I’m running, I like to listen to a lot of my raw mixes to get a sense of what needs work, but if I’m trying to have a really blissful run, I’ll listen to Dean Blunt or Sade. If you run by the river and put on Sade, you’ll feel like the hottest person in the universe. Trust.

    Tanner likes to run along the Schuylkill River, the Delaware River, and through Penn Treaty Park.TYGER WILLIAMS / Staff Photographer

    I also like to think of my runs as quests. I will deliberately only bring my phone and headphones so I’m forced to stop for the things I need to keep going, like a snack or electrolytes. It’s fun because it helps me get to know the city better, even after more than a decade. … I think people get tired of Philly because they don’t chew down on it enough.

    Running this way has also made me a public bathroom expert because peeing, of course, is always part of the quests. My hot tip: Never count out a Whole Foods.

    6 p.m.

    After my run, I like to get dinner and drinks with my friends.

    Our go-to is Monk’s Cafe, which I recently learned might be haunted? I typically order the Thai curry mussels, a saison, and fries.

    I know there’s a lot of discourse about Monk’s having the best fries, but I want to make clear that I do NOT play that game. Fries come in all shapes and sizes, and they’re all good. I would never body shame a fry. It’s like trying to say a basketball player is more athletic than a football player. How could you?

    A pot of mussels in Thai curry broth at Monk’s Cafe.Craig LaBan

    If we want to have a less chill night, my friends and I will go to Johnny Brenda’s — I had my first ever legal drink there, and they make a great steak. For a more chill night, we like to eat at Phở 75. I want my pho with dark meat chicken and all the fixings — jalapeños, bean sprouts, cilantro, sriracha, hoisin. Barrett, of course, will probably have a piece of the chicken.

    9 p.m.

    I like to end my day with music, either by practicing with my band or mixing my album, which reminds me a lot of coming up with drinks for Loretta’s since both start with me asking the same question: What can I do to make this thing pop?

    Sound mixing is so similar to food and beverage because it’s very easy to sense when you’ve done too much and need to pull back. Things often taste and sound the best when they’re at their most natural.


    This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

  • What’s in a pepper pot? Black chefs gather to celebrate, revive, and update Philadelphia’s signature soup.

    What’s in a pepper pot? Black chefs gather to celebrate, revive, and update Philadelphia’s signature soup.

    The parade of soup bowls that perfumed the air of chef Shola Olunloyo’s South Philadelphia home kitchen with spice and heady broth could not have been more different. A buttery brown stew enriched with veal and bacon. An ethereal orange purée of squash that harbored habanero heat and delicate shellfish. A modernist collage of deconstructed elements — oxtail, pork belly, and frilly tripe dabbed with a gingery green mince of Caribbean herbs — artfully posed over a shallow splash of dark broth. But each one answered to the same name: pepper pot.

    “Pepper pot! Smoking hot!”

    Chef Angie Brown prepares to serve her version of pepper pot for fellow chefs to try.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    So went the chant of the colonial-era vendors whose pepper pot cauldrons simmered on street corners across Philadelphia, America’s first capital city, with a “pleasant feast” made from an improvised variety of inexpensive cuts of meats, often including ox foot, tripe, and “a great portion of spice.” This iconic soup, largely produced by Black women from the West Indies, was immortalized as a city staple in an early 19th-century booklet chronicling the street cries of Philadelphia, a painting of an 1811 market scene painting by John Lewis Krimmel that hangs in the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and, more than 150 years later, Andy Warhol’s Pop Art series of Campbell’s soup can prints.

    “Pepper-Pot: A Scene in the Philadelphia Market” by John Lewis Krimmel depicts Philadelphians of varying classes enjoying the soup. Philadelphia Museum of Art: 125th Anniversary Acquisition. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Edward B. Leisenring, Jr., 2001-196-1

    Over time, pepper pot evolved into a broad diversity of styles, hinted at by the starkly different interpretations on the table at Olunloyo’s home. Olunloyo, a culinary consultant and the chef of Studio Kitchen, had gathered a small group of Black chefs there for a pepper pot summit — to taste and compare recipes, reflect on its legacy, and, perhaps, spark a local resurgence.

    “I was excited to learn that Philadelphia had a distinct dish that was not just cheesesteaks or pretzels, and to be a part of understanding what cemented Philadelphia’s culinary reputation,” says chef Omar Tate, who served us a test run of a pepper pot he plans to add to the menu at Honeysuckle this fall.

    Chef Chad Williams, who was unable to attend the June gathering, is planning to serve a version of pepper pot on the tasting menu soon at his Michelin-starred Friday Saturday Sunday. He’s starting his process with the flavor memories of a pepper pot his grandpa Chester once made in West Philadelphia, along with other variations Williams cooked earlier in his career, then “working our way backwards.”

    “We’ve got to put it on restaurant menus again because if we don’t cook it, it dies,” says Angela Brown, a private chef and former culinary director for Rex at the Royal, who led off the lunchtime event with a hearty rendition of the dish she learned from her great-grandmother. “This new generation of cooks doesn’t know anything about pepper pot, so it’s nice to bring it back.” (The meal was also documented for radio by NPR reporter Justin Kramon for WHYY’s The Pulse.)

    Andy Warhol’s 1968 color screenprint “Pepper Pot.”Matt Dunham

    The rise and fall of pepper pot

    The effort can’t come soon enough. In 2026, pepper pot as we once knew it has become nearly extinct. Campbell’s stopped producing it in 2010, coinciding with a dwindling appetite for tripe. History-minded chef Adam Diltz still produces it occasionally at Elwood. There have been efforts by local food historians and home cooks to keep its memory alive. The last local restaurant to regularly serve pepper pot was City Tavern (although chef Walter Staib’s West Indies version was without tripe), before the replica of the historic tavern closed in 2020.

    The timing of this pepper pot party is not a coincidence. Reflections on history have been at the forefront of this year’s celebration of America’s 250th anniversary. Food historian William Woys Weaver, among the tasters at Olunloyo’s house, argues in his forthcoming Pepperpot City that no proto-Philadephia dish may be as meaningful — or elusive — to grasp.

    Weaver unearths a stunning array of pepper pots in the book, due out in October, from the humblest market-stall versions to those ladled from the gilded tureens of society’s hautest tables: There are myriad variations of meats, seafood, seasonal produce, dumplings, and numerous cultural influences. The breadth of iterations makes it impossible to define Philadelphia’s pepper pot as one specific thing, aside from the inclusion of tripe (usually, but not always) and the presence of spice. It was a way of life and cooking more than a particular bowl of soup.

    “What’s pepper pot? It’s whatever you had there right in front of you,” says Weaver. “These chefs did not live by written recipes, but oral traditions they learned from a mentor. That’s why there were so many different kinds. Each person cooked from their soul.”

    The ever-morphing nature of the soup became emblematic of colonial Philadelphia as a focal point for the New World melting pot, he says, where the confluence of Black, white, and Creole foodways began to define this newly founded country’s culinary personality.

    “The City of Brotherly Love helped create a singular identity that helped shape what we know today as American cuisine,” writes Weaver. “Especially when winnowed through the hands of Black cooks.”

    Chef Omar Tate served a test run of a pepper pot he plans to add to the menu at Honeysuckle this fall.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Diverse foodways, all in one dish

    Philadelphia’s pepper pot shares Afro-Caribbean roots with a number of soups that go by the same name in the Caribbean and South America, although they’re distinctly different, since many are flavored with the caramelized cassava juice known as cassareep. It is also cousins with the callaloos and pepper soups of West Africa, as well as New Orleans gumbo and Haitian soup joumou. Pepper pot reflects Philadelphia’s unique status as a haven for free Black communities who had access to the tropical foodstuffs — allspice, habaneros, sea turtles, and pumpkins — arriving at its vibrant port on ships that also supplied the West Indies slave trade.

    This illustration of “Philadelphia street characters” was published in Harper’s Weekly in 1876. “The pepper pot woman” stands at the bottom right.Harper's Weekly/Google

    For this reason, many, including Weaver and food historian Jessica B. Harris, have come to regard early Philadelphia as the northernmost Creole city.

    “Nowhere is this connection more apparent than in Philadelphia’s pepperpot soup,” Harris writes in her book Beyond Gumbo. In a recent interview, she elaborated: “You’ve got a port bringing foods from other places and people also who are coming in from all over, enslaved and free. This kind of urban polyglot mix — that is the matrix of Philadelphia. And then you start getting their food. You know women of West Indian origin are going to make use of their skills and call on their memories to make something palatable to the people in this new place. All those things come together in pepper pot.”

    That lineage was especially resonant for Angela Brown, whose deeply flavored and nuanced stew of veal, bacon, and tripe took on a buttery texture from a dark roux and delivered just a gentle glow of peppercorn spice.

    “As a Black woman, when I think about all those women in the 1700s out there on the wharfs cooking soup to sell for the day and praying they get enough money, I feel sort of sad that my ancestors had to work that hard,” she says.

    Chef Angie Brown prepares her version of pepper pot for fellow chefs.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Yet cooking pepper pot also brought her joy, because it conjured warm memories of Brown’s childhood in Mount Airy. She’d walk to the neighborhood butcher for a pound of tripe, then closely watch her great-grandmother, Carrie Smithers, make it, beginning by sizzling the holy trinity of celery, bell peppers, and onions in rendered bacon fat and veal drippings.

    “That’s the reason I knew how to layer it,” says Brown. “I was very close to my great-grandmother, and she would be so proud that I made it delicious. I might have even made it better than hers.”

    Brown’s soup was the closest we’d taste that day to the thick, meaty tripe stew from Campbell’s that stamped pepper pot as a Philadelphia specialty, along with a version popularized nationwide on the dining cars of the Pennsylvania Railroad.

    “But there never really was a single ‘Philadelphia-style’ pepper pot. It was a marketing device, because this was a diverse city and pepper pot changed with every neighborhood,” says Weaver, who documents several 19th-century soup halls known as “pepperpot hotels” across the city, along with recipes that range from Esther Levy’s Jewish beef-and-mutton pepper pot from 1871 to pepper pot with crab, asparagus tips, and dumplings from a culinary instructor named Aunt Matilda in 1879. “Every Philadelphia recipe I’ve seen is different.”

    A recipe published for the Philadelphia World’s Fair in an 1876 cookbook from the Women’s Centennial Exhibition Committee featured two kinds of tripe in a veal knuckle broth studded with veal dumplings. Another completely different pepper pot called gingambo au potiron — with sea turtle broth, seafood, and a Brazilian pumpkin — emerged from the émigré Creole neighborhood called Hamiltonville, on the Woodlands estate southwest of the University of Pennsylvania campus.

    Chef Shola Olunloyo, a culinary consultant and the chef of Studio Kitchen, made a variation of a seafood-pumpkin pepper pot he once cooked at the restaurant Deux Cheminees.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    A soup that unlocks memories

    Coincidentally, Olunloyo served us a variation of that same seafood-pumpkin pepper pot, a dish he grew fond of making regularly when he launched his career at Deux Cheminées. The late chef-owner there, Fritz Blank, had amassed a legendary cookbook collection and befriended both Weaver and Harris, who published Blank’s recipe in Beyond Gumbo.

    Olunloyo’s soup skipped the turtle broth for rich fish stock and swapped out pumpkin for butternut squash. The froth of its silky orange puree — enriched with vermouth, cream, and leeks — sparks with Scotch bonnet, ginger, and a scant pinch of aromatic mace. Sweet little bay scallops, added to the bowl raw, cook in its warmth alongside mussels and other shellfish. It was an elegant reminder of the refinements that European-trained French chefs gave to the high-society kitchens of early Philadelphia, one of “two separate strands” — the vernacular creativity of its street foods being the other — that shaped the city’s culinary evolution, says Weaver. Ever-evolving pepper pot existed in both spheres.

    For Olunloyo, whose career as a consultant and supper club chef has been most influential in its advocacy of modern methods and cutting-edge technology, diving back into pepper pot has been a reminder of his formative years as a cook and the enduring value of classic techniques.

    Chef Shola Olunloyo ladles out a meaty version of Nigerian pepper stew, a not-so-distant cousin of pepper pot.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    The dish transports him even farther back to his childhood in West Africa and the pepper soups he grew up eating in Nigeria. In addition to his seafood-squash pepper pot, he served the group a boldly spiced version of that pepper soup — a rustic, bone-in stew of goat, beef neck, and tripe flavored with a blend of Nigerian seeds and dried chilies, with an extra hit of habanero and fresh green shiso he snips over each bowl to replicate hard-to-find African scent leaves. The connection to the West African roots of pepper pot’s creators could not have been more obvious.

    “Taste is not linear,” observed Omar Tate. “It is kind of like a spiral, the memory is trying to circle back home at every point when you pick up an ingredient.”

    Chef Shola Olunloyo explains his pepper pot recipe in his home kitchen in South Philadelphia.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    The importance of historical Black dishes in 2026

    For Tate, whose pepper pot efforts sit squarely within the provocative explorations of the Black American foodways Honeysuckle is known for, the point of the exercise for him was not to recreate history — “I’m not interested in copy-and-paste tradition” — but to modernize it for today’s tastes. His rendition with oxtail, pork belly, and honeycomb tripe was partly inspired by the Krimmel painting of a woman serving a market crowd of early 18th-century Philadelphians. But Tate’s deconstructed presentation, with each element suspended above locally raised vegetables and a puddle of intensely flavored broth spiced with fish peppers from Honeysuckle partner Plowshare Farms, looks like the melting pot in reverse. (Seeds for the fish pepper, an heirloom chile used by Black caterers in Baltimore in the 1800s, were publicly reintroduced by Weaver in 1995.)

    “I’ve never been able to fully sit in the idea of what tradition is because of my relationship to Black history in America, and realizing that the strongest, most consistent Black tradition is being uprooted constantly all the time,” he says. “Yes, we are preserving culture and honoring the past, but I’m constantly trying to disrupt what I know about that, because it helps understand how people navigated change.”

    Chef Omar Tate of Honeysuckle plates his version of pepper pot.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    In this respect, the timing could not be more keen for a pepper pot tribute and the conversations it starts about the important role Black chefs played in shaping the nation’s cuisine. Keeping history front and center through food remains a powerful act, especially after the administration of President Donald Trump abruptly altered displays at the President’s House on Independence Mall to sanitize George Washington’s role there as an enslaver of nine people, including the seminal chef Hercules Posey.

    “We tried to honor their history and make sure tradition was preserved, but now that’s been disrupted and they have to be reimagined,” said Tate of the enslaved individuals previously commemorated at the President’s House, where the changes, he said, have deeply affected him. “That can only come through the possibility of taste and oral history.”

    Chad Williams agrees.

    “You have to cook it to keep it alive. Much of what makes dishes truly great is difficult to put into a recipe — the flavor, the experience of the dish, and making sure that gets pushed forward into the future by cooking it hand-to-hand. It can’t always come from a book.”

    Honeysuckle chef Omar Tate tastes the pepper pot recipe of Angie Brown.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Pepper pot keeps evolving

    The beauty of Philadelphia’s pepper pot is that it has proven to be less of a specific recipe than a culinary approach tied to this city, a resourceful way to coax tender sustenance and comfort in a stew flared with spice and the memories of a faraway land using whatever was locally available. As Tate and others at the tasting noted, such dishes have, in fact, continued to thrive with the arrival of new waves of immigrant communities, even if their fiery tripe-laced soups go by other names.

    Vietnamese bún bò Huế. Mexican menudo. Mauritanian tripe and cow skin gravy over Jollof rice. Spicy Korean beef gopchang-jeongol. Polish flaki. Italian trippa alla Romana. Excellent versions of all these and more can be found here, which, in the context of Pepperpot City, means they, too, could be considered as part of a grand centuries-old Philadelphia tradition that’s not quite ready to fade away.

    “They’re all pepper pots,” insists William Woys Weaver. “That’s our local word for it, you know! Let’s stop pretending that pepper pot is one thing. Pepper pot is Philadelphia’s soul soup.”

    The cover of “Pepperpot City,” a book about Philadelphia food history by local historian William Woys Weaver. The cover features a portion of an 1811 painting by John Lewis Krimmel depicting a pepper pot vendor selling the soup in a market.Courtesy University of Pennsylvania Press
  • The best thing Kiki Aranita ate this week: Candy-shaped pasta from Fiorella

    The best thing Kiki Aranita ate this week: Candy-shaped pasta from Fiorella

    The cleverest pastas tend to trick the eye and tease with wordplay. Are those postage stamps or francobolli? A plate of handkerchiefs or fazzoletti? Sorprese? Or surprise! It’s stuffed with nothing at all.

    But no pasta shape is more visually convincing than caramelle, which closely resembles oblong candies in wrappers, with both ends twisted to contain the fillings. Fiorella’s cooks add another layer of wit to their current variation on the classic shape: Their caramelle are undeniably sweet (something that pasta often is not).

    But the historic Italian Market butcher shop-turned-pasta bar isn’t sugaring its pasta. The caramelle’s sweetness comes naturally from late-summer corn simmered in butter and funked up with huitlacoche and black summer truffles.

    “Huitlacoche is known colloquially as the poor man’s truffle,” said chef Matt Rodrigue, who loved the duality of uniting it with conventionally expensive black truffle — and with the fungus’ host.

    “Pairing huitlacoche [corn smut] with corn isn’t reinventing the wheel but, again, it was simple. They grow together. It’s one of the few fungal infections that happen on a farm where the farmer is, well, not upset because of how much it can sell for,” he said.

    It’s unlikely you’d fly to Italy and get a plate of caramelle pasta made with huitlacoche, but it’s an essential ingredient in Mexican cuisine — and in Philly’s Italian Market, which now contains far more Mexican businesses than its namesake suggests.

    By cooking with locally available ingredients, Rodrigue is, in essence, hewing to Italian tradition and simplicity in his approach to making pasta, even if he’s not always sticking to ingredients from Italy.

    Fiorella Pasta, 817 Christian St., Philadelphia, on Dec. 27, 2025.Michael Klein / Staff

    “Simple is hard. It’s difficult to be restrained and to work within confines,” Rodrigue said. “But rules help you develop a vision.”

    And so his caramelle filling is simply corn, huitlacoche, butter, and onion simmered together, pureed until silken, then twisted up into pasta. The candy-shaped batons are cooked, then dressed with pasta water that’s emulsified with chives by vigorously tossing the caramelle in the pan. The dish is finished with a snowdrift of Parmigiano Reggiano and black truffle shavings. The result is a marriage of cultures, aromatic funk from two different sources, and the last breath of the season’s corn.

    “People pay for things. For truffles, for certain mushrooms. And I felt corn should be in that category and an all-star. Corn is perfect. It just needs butter and salt and you’re good to go,” said Rodrigue.

    And Fiorella’s caramelle is a perfect salute to corn and its smut. But also, of course, butter.

  • Cheesecake Factory’s Cajun salmon is having a TikTok moment. It’s bringing local crowds — and headaches.

    Cheesecake Factory’s Cajun salmon is having a TikTok moment. It’s bringing local crowds — and headaches.

    Cheesecake Factory’s Cajun salmon used to be a straightforward order: blackened salmon, Creole sauce, buttered corn, mashed potatoes.

    Then, it hit TikTok.

    Now, in a social media-driven frenzy that’s spread nationwide, Cheesecake customers are swapping in loaded mashed potatoes, adding shrimp, ordering extra sauce, and turning a single entrée — one of the roughly 250 dishes on the chain’s menu — into a build-your-own production.

    And in Philly, at least one local Cheesecake Factory is feeling the heat.

    Diners leaving the Cheesecake Factory in Center City in August 2025.Yong Kim / Staff Photographer

    Spawning a Cajun salmon trend

    The salmon craze can be traced to Sept. 3, when Shayla Roberts, a nail technician and permanent-makeup artist from Minneapolis, posted a 15-second video showing how she orders the Cajun salmon, opting for loaded mashed potatoes, shrimp on top, a pitcher of extra sauce, and a side of Cajun seasoning.

    Roberts, who posts as @slayed_byshayyyy and has about 55,400 followers on Instagram and nearly 39,000 on TikTok, said she had no marketing plan behind the post. “I love to eat, and I feel like when I go to any restaurant, I’m always trying to jazz it up a little bit,” she told The Inquirer. “And so I thought, let me just start recording, because my mom and my aunts were saying, ‘You’re always adding a little razzle-dazzle to stuff. You need to start putting [it online].’”

    Her recommendation quickly spread. On Sept. 7, tennis star Coco Gauff posted on TikTok from the U.S. Open in Queens, N.Y., to say that she wanted to try the dish because it kept appearing in her feed.

    That got the attention of Cheesecake Factory, which replied to say it had a restaurant in Queens, near the tennis center.

    Then on Sept. 11, food reviewer Keith Lee — who has 17.3 million followers on TikTok and 2.7 million on Instagram — stitched Roberts’ video on TikTok while sampling the dish at a Dallas-area Cheesecake Factory. Lee posted to Instagram three days later.

    The dish’s popularity exploded from there. The original video eventually drew about 5 million views, while Lee’s posts generated millions more.

    “Five million views of attention? I did not expect that,” Roberts said.

    Over the weeks, the trend has spawned scores of follow-up videos, from customer reviews to workers documenting the rush. One food runner posted a video from a kitchen, proclaiming: “Out of the 10 dishes ready to go, six are the viral meal. TikTok, you done it again.”

    Even people creating copycat dishes are getting thousands of views. Then on Thursday, Gauff posted again, this time eating the dish.

    ‘The thing that everyone’s ordering’

    The sudden surfeit of modifications comes with a downside for local staff.

    “When I ring it into the computer, there are probably 10 buttons I have to push to put it in the way people are asking for it,” said a server at the Cheesecake Factory’s Center City location, who asked not to be identified because they were not authorized to speak for the company.

    “And all this extra special stuff is really easy for the kitchen to trip over when they’re making it a thousand different ways.”

    The volume is apparently substantial. At that location, at 15th and Walnut Streets, the restaurant sold at least 60 orders of the Cajun salmon one recent night, according to the worker. In previous nights, servers would ring in just a few.

    The Cajun salmon is priced at $19.95 at lunch and $29.95 at dinner, but the extras like shrimp can add more than $10.

    For workers paid a tipped wage, bigger checks should translate into more money. But the server said that has not necessarily been the case. The trend has particularly attracted younger customers, some of whom seem surprised by the final tab and pull back sharply on tips, the server said: “Some tables will leave $5, no matter what the total is.”

    Customers are modifying Cheesecake Factory’s Cajun salmon dish for social media.Courtesy of Cheesecake Factory

    The shortfall can average about $50 a night, said the server, who would prefer that management institute an automatic gratuity on all checks.

    Cheesecake Factory declined to comment on the impact on workers, but welcomed the attention. “It’s been fun to see the creative ‘hacks’ that our guests are making to this dish as well as several other items across the menu,” chief marketing officer Donald Evans said in a statement.

    By now, at the Center City location, some customers don’t even need to name the dish. “People are asking me to get them ‘the thing that everyone is ordering,’” the worker said. “I wonder what’s next.”