Author: Beatrice Forman

  • Ellen Yin’s newest Philly restaurant is an all-day aperitivo bar built for snacking and sipping

    Ellen Yin’s newest Philly restaurant is an all-day aperitivo bar built for snacking and sipping

    Ellen Yin’s newest Philly restaurant doesn’t have a grand opening date yet, but it does have a vintage-looking light blue Lambretta scooter parked out front.

    Why? To set the mood.

    The acclaimed restaurateur’s latest project is Bar Cicci, an all-day aperitivo bar soft-opening Aug. 18 at 1620 Sansom St., just next door to Uchi. Inspired by Yin’s longstanding, almost obsessive love of northern Italy, the bar is an ode to the country’s casual drinking culture, with classic pastries in the morning followed by sandwiches in the afternoon and snacks and spritzes in the evening.

    Yin has traveled to Italy more than any other country. There, “a bar is a place where you go in the morning to have an espresso and meet up with your neighbors, chit-chatting away,” she said. “And that morning ritual turns into sandwiches and gelato at lunch time, and then [drinks] at dinner.”

    Pronounced “Bar CHEE-CHEE,” the name is a play on the Italian word ciccio, a term of endearment for something small and plump. The menu — curated by Yin and Christina McKeough, the culinary director for High Street and the Bread Room — will be a smorgasbord of little things. The dayside, counter service-only lineup will feature traditional Italian pastries and sandwiches. Starting at 4 p.m., the menu will switch to showcase 20 small plates and a rotating array of cicchetti (or snacks), with prices falling between $5 and $20 each.

    An assortment of sandwiches, small plates, pastries, and drinks that will be available at Bar Cicci, Ellen Yin’s new restaurant set to open in mid-August. Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Yin envisions Bar Cicci as a catchall space for those who live and work around Rittenhouse Square. In theory, a customer could stop in three times in one day: first for coffee and a pastry on the way to work, then again for a business lunch, and once more for pre-dinner drinks.

    Cicci will be Yin’s sixth Philly restaurant as part of High Street Hospitality, the restaurant group Yin cofounded with chef Eli Kulp. Fork, her first, opened in 1997 and went on to become one of Old City’s most enduring fine dining restaurants. She would follow it up with High Street — one of the city’s first all-day cafes, now located in Center City’s Franklin Residences — and a.kitchen, the Rittenhouse Square hotel restaurant. The Bread Room, known for its grown-up pop-tarts and morning buns, is the group’s bakery.

    Yin and McKeough had been working on Bar Cicci since April 2025. It’s their first themed project. “We don’t just get to do what we want here,” Yin said. Everything in the space has some tie to northern Italy, down to its groovy accent pillows.

    High Street/The Bread Room culinary director Christina McKeough (left) and restaurateur Ellen Yin outside Bar Cicci, their new restaurant inspired by northern Italy. The light blue Lambretta scooter helps set the mood.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Bar Cicci’s 30-seat dining room channels 1970s Milan. Plush burnt-orange banquettes decorated with Missoni-style striped pillows wrap around black marble tables that interior designer Marguerite Rodgers repurposed from the lobby bar inside the Franklin Residences.

    The counter is outfitted with a modernized Faema E-61, at one point Italy’s best-selling and only semiautomatic espresso machine. Even the dome-shaped mid-century modern light fixtures — a holdover from when Sandler’s on 9th occupied High Street’s space at 101 S. Ninth St. — cast a slightly hazy glow, as if you’re sitting in a scene from a film.

    An assortment of cicchetti at Bar Cicci. The crostini-like snacks are a Venetian speciality meant to be served with wine.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    The vibe is inspired by Yin and McKeough’s favorite bars from research trips to Venice and Milan, such as Milan’s Bar Basso, where Yin recalled being offered seemingly endless pours of Campari. The duo intend for Bar Cicci to be an introduction to Italy’s slower-paced aperitivo hour, a time in the early evening when lower-ABV cocktails are paired with bite-sized snacks designed to get people socializing without pretense.

    Aperitivo is “supersocial,” McKeough said. “A lot of bars in Italy, people aren’t even sitting down. They’re standing up.”

    Sandwiches, spritzes, and snacks

    The centerpiece of Bar Cicci’s evening menu will be a rotating array of cicchetti, crostini-esque bites that you typically eat with a glass of wine while standing. The restaurant will offer about a dozen at a time, in sets of three or five, all prepared on McKeough’s version of an Italian baguette, which is chewier than its French counterpart.

    The pastry case at Bar Cicci is full of classic Italian pastries such as maritozzi and cornetti. Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    The bread was the hardest to perfect, according to McKeough, and the most crucial to get right: “No matter where we went, [the cicchetti] were always so easy to eat … you could take a bite without it falling apart.” She anticipates Bar Cicci’s opening lineup will include Venetian standards such as salted cod and tuna with eggs.

    The Bread Room will bake all the bread for Bar Cicci’s lunchtime sandwiches, will which include a long olive oil sfilatino loaf filled with mortadella; tuna and jammy egg on slider-sized rolls; and Roman-style pizza biancas layered with eggplant, bomba, and radicchio or anchovies, watercress, and tomato tonnato.

    A pizza bianca sandwich from Bar Cicci, which will be baking all of its breads in house.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    As for the grab-and-go case, it will contain tried-and-true pastries that range from trendy cream-stuffed maritozzi to Italian-style chocolate chip pound cake and five versions of cornetti, which McKeough likened to a “reverse-engineered croissant.”

    Bar Cicci will serve dark-roast espresso and coffee from Arkansas-based roaster Onyx and Italian-style wines from Mural City Cellars, the popular Fishtown winery. The restaurant is going all in on aperitivi with its cocktail lineup, which will include a spaghett-style Aperol spritz, foamy espresso martinis al freddo, and the Garibaldi, a Campari cocktail made with the juice of a whole orange.

    For McKeough and Yin, the hope is that the food, if not cocktails, will make people linger.

    “There’s just something about a little bite that makes you want to have another drink,” McKeough said.

    A cornetto filled with seasonal jam at Bar Cicci.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Bar Cicci, 1620 Sansom St. Suite C3, 215-515-3793, barcicciphl.com. Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday (to start). Soft-opening Aug. 18.

  • Philly isn’t applying to host the next James Beard Awards. Some insiders say that’s a mistake.

    Philly isn’t applying to host the next James Beard Awards. Some insiders say that’s a mistake.

    Philly may be among the James Beard Awards’ most valuable players, but it won’t be their next host.

    The Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau — the organization that brought the Michelin Guide to Philly last year — doesn’t plan to pursue a bid to host the James Beard Foundation’s annual awards ceremony, a spokesperson told reporters Monday.

    Considered to be the restaurant industry’s Oscars, the Beard Awards have celebrated the best in food service and media across the United States every spring since 1991.

    The ceremony moved from New York City to Chicago in 2015, where it has been held with increasing fanfare for the past 11 years. Now, the awards are searching for a new city to take up the mantle for a five-year term, from 2029 through 2033.

    “Recognition through the awards can be transformative — driving visibility, strengthening businesses, and creating new opportunities for recipients both immediately and over time,” the Beard Foundation said last week in a statement announcing a request for information from potential host cities. “These benefits extend to the host destination as well: The multiday event showcases the local culinary community while generating national media attention and meaningful economic impact.”

    Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon and her Kalaya partners accept the 2026 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant.© Eliesa Johnson / James Beard Foundation

    Hosting the awards also comes with significant price tag: The Beard Foundation is asking interested cities to commit to spending a minimum of $4 million for the first year, with annual increases of up to 5% after. Cities can source the money through a mix of cash investment, sponsorships, and public sector funds.

    Cities can send in preliminary information — including an estimate of hotel stock, prospective venues, and responses to short-answer questions — to the Beard Foundation through Aug. 7. Selected applicants will then be invited to submit official proposals. The next host will be announced in early 2027.

    Philly has likely ruled itself out.

    “Our mission is to attract citywide conventions, meetings, and major events that generate significant overnight visitation and hotel demand,” Convention & Visitors Bureau spokesperson Jaime Martorana wrote over email. “After reviewing the James Beard Awards’ event hosting requirements, we’ve determined they aren’t fully aligned with the PHLCVB’s mission and mandate.”

    People arrive at the 2024 James Beard Awards in Chicago. The Oscars of the restaurant industry is looking for a new city to host the awards from 2029 to 2033.Erin Hooley

    Philly’s untouched resumé

    It’s unclear which hosting requirements don’t match up with the Convention & Visitors Bureau’s mandate of bringing major events to Philly.

    Reviewed by The Inquirer, the seven-part application asks cities to detail the high-profile events it has hosted in the last three years, outline its transit options, and explain how their restaurant scene upholds values of “culinary excellence, sustainability, inclusion, [and] accessibility.”

    Philadelphia spent the past two months juggling nonstop major events, from six World Cup matches, the MLB All-Star Game, and, perhaps biggest of all, the nation’s 250th birthday. All the while, the city’s estimated 19,000 hotel rooms reached a record-high 90% occupancy as hundreds of thousands visited Philly. Even the delay-plagued, chronically-underfunded SEPTA rose to the occasion, with expanded service, free fare, and dance parties.

    Hanna Williams (left) and husband, Chad, at the 2025 Michelin Guide Northeast Cities awards at the Kimmel Center in Philadelphia. Their restaurant, Friday Saturday Sunday, is the only local restaurant to have a James Beard Award and a Michelin Star.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    Philly is also a James Beard Awards darling, fielding finalists nine out of the past 10 years. In June, chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon’s Thai restaurant, Kalaya, won outstanding restaurant, while Royal Sushi & Izakaya’s Jesse Ito was named Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic, a region that spans New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, and Washington.

    Visit Philadelphia, the city’s official tourism nonprofit, has worked with the James Beard Foundation since 2016, including hosting the 2020 nominee announcement and several dinner and marketing events in the years since.

    “It seems to me like we should at least be having a conversation about what the relative merits of hosting are, especially since the Beards have been very good to us,” said Jonathan Deutsch, the director of Drexel University’s Food Lab and a previous judge for the Beard Awards’ media and leadership categories.

    Deutsch and others in the local food scene say it’s a mistake for Philly not to try, forgoing at least a little bit of the momentum Philly has built as a destination for world-class dining and tourism. Freelance journalist and Inquirer contributor Adam Erace — who chaired the Beard Awards Mid-Atlantic subcommittee from 2010 to 2020 — highlighted that Philly’s status as a Northeast corridor city with a reliable airport makes it easy for nominees to commute.

    Mawn’s Phila Lorn (left) and Rachel Lorn at the 2025 James Beard Awards in Chicago. Lorn won emerging chef that year.Courtesy of Rachel Lorn

    Plus, he said, we’ve done this before, pointing out that the city hosted a Michelin Guide ceremony in November and routinely hosts the Chef Conference.

    “We’ve spent the past 10 years pushing as a city to grow. If anybody’s ready, we’re ready,” said chef Chad Williams, whose Rittenhouse Square restaurant Friday Saturday Sunday won the James Beard award for Outstanding Restaurant in 2023 and was a finalist for Outstanding Bar in June.

    What could Philly miss out on?

    In a few words: millions of dollars in economic impact.

    The 2026 James Beard Awards in Chicago generated $8.3 million in direct spending from the operational costs associated with putting on the ceremony, plus offsite spending by attendees, according to a report the foundation commissioned from the Oxford Economics Co. That direct spending turned into $17 million in overall economic impact on the greater Chicago area, including $1.2 million in local and state tax revenue.

    Philadelphia chefs are acknowledged at the Michelin Guide announcements at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025, in Philadelphia.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    Erace and Deutsch, who both have attended the Beard Awards, describe it as a weekend of dinners, pre-parties, after-parties, and pop-ups that encourage attendees to eat and drink in the host city. This year’s awards included roughly 41 events in the days leading up to the ceremony, Illinois Restaurant Association president Sam Toia told the Chicago Sun-Times.

    The restaurant awards’ voting body — composed of anonymous judges with industry experience selected via committee — is only allowed to vote for restaurants they’ve eaten at in the past year, explained Erace. This gives Chicago a small leg up. Hosting the awards enables more judges to eat in the city and speak to its restaurants’ quality.

    “It seems like a missed opportunity,” said Deutsch. “You have top chefs, journalists, cookbook authors, passionate foodies … who are paying a couple of thousand dollars over the weekend for airfare, dining, and a hotel just to experience the awards.”

    What about the Michelin Guide?

    Last year, the Convention and Visitor’s Bureau successfully bid to bring the Michelin Northeast Cities Guide — and its award ceremony — to Philly for the first time.

    Provenance, Her Place Supper Club, and Friday Saturday Sunday each earned their first star from the coveted gastronomic guide, with 31 other Philly restaurants falling among the guide’s Bib Gourmand and Recommended tiers. Most of them reported at least a modest increase in business right after.

    “Now that the busiest period of our 2026 event calendar has concluded, we’ll be reconnecting with the restaurants and chefs recognized in the Guide to better understand how the first half of the year performed and how Michelin recognition has supported their businesses,” Martorana said.

    The Michelin Man, whose name is Bibendum, arrives at the Michelin Guide announcements at the Kimmel Center, on Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025, in Philadelphia.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    It’s still unclear how much it cost to court the guide, or how much it boosted Philadelphia overall. The Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau declined to share how much it paid Michelin and has yet to make data available about the spending generated by Michelin’s newfound Philadelphia presence.

    Cities pay to be included in the Michelin Guide, often cobbling together funding from a mix of tourism organizations, public investment, and sponsorships. The price of admission is steep: Boston and Atlanta both paid upward of $1 million to bring the Michelin Guide to their cities, while Texas raised $2.7 million from Dallas, Austin, San Antonio, Fort Worth, and Houston to get a dedicated Texas guide. Some locals, like Virginia and Buffalo, rebuffed Michelin entirely, calling the fees unsustainable.

    In Philly, the Michelin Guide and the James Beard Awards can appear to be an echo chamber, with the same set of restaurants receiving praise from both. Williams — whose restaurant Friday Saturday Sunday is the city’s only restaurant to receive a Michelin Star and a Beard Award — said each accolade generated “equal” bumps in reservations.

    From left: Joe Beddia, Greg Root, Nick Kennedy (rear), Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, and Roland Kassis, with the Michelin Man at the Michelin Guide announcement event at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025, in Philadelphia.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    The sameness begs the question: Does Philly need both?

    Deutsch wondered if the city’s decision to not go for the Beard Awards has to do with “fine-dining fatigue,” or if the powers that be feel like “they spent a lot of money to check that box for the next few years,” he said.

    The Michelin Guide is technically the better bet — at least numbers-wise, Erace acknowledged.

    “Thirty-something restaurants get some kind of recognition, and they can take that to the bank forever,” he said. “With the Beards, there’s only so many winners every year.”

  • South Street’s Tattooed Mom says live music events are on hold indefinitely

    South Street’s Tattooed Mom says live music events are on hold indefinitely

    South Street bar Tattooed Mom is unable to host events with music — ranging from drag shows and burlesque performances to karaoke — indefinitely, following an order from the Department of Licenses & Inspections.

    L&I ordered to bar to cease all events involving music performances in March after a Feb. 17 inspection revealed the bar was operating without a special assembly license, records show.

    Getting one could take months, according to Tattooed Mom owner Robert Perry, and would require the bar to apply for a special zoning exception, a process with a reputation for long delays.

    “I’m not asking for better treatment. I’m not trying to be a victim about this,” Perry told The Inquirer. “But having this process have to grind to a halt or drag out does feel wrong. There should be a better way.”

    Perry opened Tattooed Mom in 1997 at 530 South St., where it has developed a reputation among artists — particularly LGBTQ+ performers — as a place to experiment with new work. The bar routinely hosted drag shows, cabarets, and burlesque nights as well as more staid events, such as art markets, craft circles, and stand-up comedy.

    The only hitch: Unbeknownst to Perry, Tattooed Mom hosted many of these events without the correct license.

    A DJ spins records during an event at Tattooed Mom in 2014. The South Street will be unable to host DJs, drag performers, or karaoke until it gets a Special Assembly Occupancy License, which could take upwards of six months.

    At least a six-month wait for a solution

    Perry said the issue arose in February, when an L&I inspector visited during the annual Mx. Tattooed Mom pageant, a variety show where drag queens, musicians, and other performers compete. The L&I inspector didn’t ask for a special assembly occupancy license while on site, Perry said. Yet, when he received a copy of the inspection report weeks later, Tattooed Mom was cited for a lack of proper licensure alongside minor fire code violations.

    All Philly establishments that have an occupancy of 50-plus people and offer live or recorded music performances, dancing, or DJs need a special assembly occupancy license. The license costs $253 and is renewed annually, but securing one requires a police recommendation and an entertainment zoning permit, which has a separate and often-lengthy approvals process.

    Perry believed Tattooed Mom was operating lawfully because the bar’s upstairs event space has an occupancy of fewer than 50 people. The violation was a “shocking kind of addition,” he said, “and bigger than what I expected to have to correct.”

    The bar ceased all drag, karaoke, and music events in March, said Perry, canceling upward of 30 performances in order to pass a L&I inspection in April.

    To apply for the license, Tattooed Mom must first secure a zoning exception to host live entertainment since its block’s commercial mixed-use designation (CMX-3) doesn’t automatically allow for it.

    Owner Robert Perry walks down the stairs at Tattooed Mom. The iconic South Street bar has hosted drag performances, burlesque, karaoke and DJs since it opened in 1997.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    The process requires a public meeting for community feedback followed by a separate hearing with the delay-plagued Zoning Board of Adjustment. As of March 2026, the wait time for a hearing is 180 days — or roughly six months — according to a manual from the City of Philadelphia. (A $750 expediting fee cuts the wait time down to 140 days, or 4.5 months.) Tattooed Mom has yet to apply for the special exception, Perry said.

    Once it became clear there was no short-term solution, the bar announced the change to its events on Instagram in mid-July.

    “Tattooed Mom is still prohibited from hosting live music events of any kind. We’re working with legal, government, and small business support groups to figure out the daunting, complicated, and expensive next steps for zoning, permits, and licenses,” according to the July 11 statement. “We believe the interpretation of some of these rules is unjust to queer communities and creative spaces. There’s no clear timeline yet, but we’ll do our best to keep you in the loop.”

    “We’re not shoot-from-the-hip people. I’m not a reactionary,” Perry said. “We feel like we want to try to move forward. We don’t know if we’ll be able to, but we want to try to.”

    ‘Like if “Footloose” was set in an eviler universe’

    The bar’s Instagram post has been shared more than 1,240 times and received nearly 400 comments. The majority call out the city for allegedly targeting businesses that cater to LGBTQ+ patrons.

    In March, the lesbian-owned women’s sports bar Marsha’s on South Street was raided by a mix of masked and unmasked officers over a bogus underaged drinking tip. And in June, city police fell under scrutiny for getting physical while patrolling Pride celebrations in the Gayborhood.

    “This is outright discrimination,” wrote one commenter.

    “Love that L&I can’t seem to inspect buildings that are literally crumbling but can shut down queer performance spaces,” wrote another. Others called the enforcement “extremely targeted” and “feeling like a Lavender Scare.”

    L&I rebukes that narrative. Tattooed Mom has no current violations, department spokesperson Kandyce Stukes confirmed in an email, and said the bar’s management “seemed to fully understand what they needed to do” for compliance.

    “This is not a targeted effort to stifle a thriving business. It is instead holding all businesses to the same standard, no matter how iconic or popular,” Stukes wrote.

    Others aren’t so sure.

    Crocheters with the Drunken Knitwits work on their craft at Tattooed Mom. The bar is trying to fill the holes in its events calendar with events that don’t involve live music, such as craft nights and comedy.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    “To have a bar that’s not even allowed to do karaoke sounds ridiculous. That’s like if Footloose was set in an eviler universe,” said drag queen Elizabeth New Jersey, who has hosted events and performed at Tattooed Mom at least once a month for nearly two years.

    The bar, they said, has long served as a space for people to try drag since it doesn’t require payment to perform. Producing events at Tattooed Mom helped the drag queen build a portfolio to land a full-time job in the arts. Now, they’re worried a pipeline has been cut off for others to do the same.

    “There’s other performance venues in Philly, but a lot of them are not as receptive to working with newer talent,” Elizabeth New Jersey said. Tattooed Mom “has always been an affirming space for people to be credited, to be paid, and given their flowers for their craft.”

    Jer Nightshade, a musician whose monthly queer variety show the Moment was displaced by Tattooed Mom’s cancellations, only began performing professionally after winning the bar’s 2025 Mx. Tattooed Mom pageant. They said it’s one of the few venues they believe adopts an attitude of “we believe in you” to all performers, regardless of whether they can pull in a crowd.

    The “Accidental Acquaintances” group art show at Tattooed Mom featuring displayed works and live painting by various street artists from around the city on Saturday, July 11, 2015. ( Tim Blackwell / Philly.com )

    Tattooed Mom is working to fill the holes in its calendar with events like comedy shows that can keep drag in the bar without violating city law. On Aug. 16, it will host the Big Gay Bash, its first-ever improv drag show.

    Nightshade is optimistic Tattooed Mom will get the proper license. For now, they’re more concerned about the chilling effect on LGBTQ+ nightlife.

    “Things sometimes feel like they’re regressing,” they said. “In the climate that we’re in now, for any government department to be wasting time shutting down what brings other people joy is frustrating. We’re not hurting anybody. We’re not destroying anything.”


    Staff writer Jason Nark contributed to this article.

  • Chibanos, a Chinese-Cuban sandwich shop built on family recipes, opens in Washington Square West

    Chibanos, a Chinese-Cuban sandwich shop built on family recipes, opens in Washington Square West

    Washington Square West’s latest restaurant brings Chinese flavors to Cuban classics, from pressed sandwiches and fried yuca to flan and croquetas.

    Chibanos opened July 1 at 1127 Pine St., formerly Effie’s, with a menu that’s an ode to the food owner Evan Fong Jaroff grew up eating as a third-culture kid in the Philly suburbs. The restaurant’s name is shorthand for what Jaroff’s mother’s family were called growing up: “Chino Cubanos,” or Chinese Cubans.

    Jaroff’s mom, Ana, immigrated to the United States from Cuba in the 1960s after the Cuban Revolution. Food helped Jaroff make sense of and learn to appreciate his background as a mixed-race kid, he said.

    At their home in Lansdowne, the Jaroffs used “soy sauce like salt,” he said, and ate traditional Southeast Chinese fish dishes alongside rice and beans, yuca, plantains, and minced beef picadillo. On Nochebuena (aka Christmas Eve), his mom would present a plate of lechón, or slow-roasted pork, coated in a secret marinade. Leftovers would be used for sandwiches.

    Aya Iwatani (left) and Evan Jaroff inside Chibanos, their Cuban-Chinese sandwich shop that opened on July 1 at 1127 Pine St.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    “When you’re mixed race, you’re always compared to one or the other. When I lived on the East Coast, I was just Asian. When I lived on the West Coast, I was just white,” Jaroff, 39, said. “But I’m a whole person.”

    Reckoning with his racial identity was the catalyst for Chibanos, which Jaroff started as a pop-up in 2022 after leaving his finance career in London and moving back to Philly. Lacking culinary experience, he enlisted the help of chef Aya Iwatani, a Honeysuckle Provisions alum, to reinterpret his childhood memories into a set of sandwiches that felt authentically Chinese and Cuban, such as a Cubano stuffed with his mom’s famous pork and salted Chinese mustard greens, or jackfruit and tofu seasoned with a garlicky mojo.

    The eggplant empanizado sandwich on a LeBus Bakery Cuban roll at Chibanos, owner Evan Jaroff’s Chinese-Cuban sandwich shop in Washington Square West.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Successful takeovers at Solar Myth, Jiggy Coffee, and Forin were enough for Jaroff to go all-in on a brick and mortar. He purchased the building — once home to Effie’s, the beloved Greek BYOB that closed after 27 years — in August 2024.

    Jaroff said he was drawn to the 200-year-old rowhouse because its history gave it a lived-in feel.

    “I want people to say, ‘Oh, Chibanos? That place looks like it’s been there for 10 years,’” he said.

    Nearly two years after the sale, the 1,725-square-foot restaurant is now a casual sandwich shop-meets-cafe, with a revamped courtyard, communal seating, and a fresh paint job. The patio’s turquoise walls bear the names of Jaroff, his brother, and mom, spelled in Chinese characters.

    The space flows seamlessly from the counter-service storefront to the courtyard and a rear dining area that looks like a minimalistic tea room — all dark wood and conversational seating. Jaroff said the indoor-outdoor vibe is a nod to Cuba and Southern China, which have the same latitude and thus similar climates.

    Owner Evan Jaroff with his wife and son at Chibanos, his Chinese-Cuban sandwich shop. The menu pulls from recipes from Jaroff’s mom, a Chinese woman who was raised in Cuba.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Chinese food done the Cuban way

    The centerpiece of Chibanos’ menu is a lineup of six pressed sandwiches on LeBus’ Cuban loaves, which Iwatani — now Chibanos’ head chef — and Jaroff chose for its just-dense-enough texture after auditioning an array of ciabattas and hoagie rolls. The eggplant empanizado — layered with salt-and-pepper eggplant, pickled serrano peppers, and cubanelle scallion slaw — is a standout. So is the chibano, the restaurant’s namesake riff on a Cubano that uses Jaroff’s mom’s pork recipe.

    The chibano, Chibanos’ version of a Cubano sandwich with roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, mustard greens, and mayo.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    The key, Iwatani said, is the marinade, which took several tries to get Ana’s stamp of approval. “The first time, she was like, ‘It’s pretty good, but not quite there,’” Iwatani said. “You have to use sherry.”

    The rest of Chibanos’ menu was developed after its pop-up run. Hits include croquetas stuffed with slightly sweet Chinese sausage, fried yuca made for dipping in a sofrito-spiced ranch, and a surprisingly light jasmine tea-infused flan. There’s also the sweet-savory-salty Chino breakfast sandwich: Fluffy eggs and char siu-style sausage are stuffed between a mayo-slicked Dodo Bakery bolo bao. The buns allude to the custard-filled rolls from Chinatown Jaroff grew up eating for breakfast.

    The Chino breakfast sandwich on a Dodo Bakery bolo bao at Chibanos, a Chinese-Cuban sandwich shop at 1127 Pine St.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Chibanos joins the dying tradition of Chino Latino cuisine, a genre that dominated New York City from the 1970s to 1990s as Chinese immigrants from Latin America settled in the U.S. to escape political instability. Chinese (lo mein, spare ribs, etc.) and Latin American (ropa vieja, pernil, etc.) staples sit column A-column B style on menus optimized for pairings at iconic restaurants like La Dinastia and the now-closed Caridad 78.

    Cuba historically had a vibrant Chinese culture. One of Latin America’s oldest Chinatowns was established in Havana in the 1920s by Chinese migrants and former indentured servants who opened restaurants that incorporated Caribbean ingredients into traditional Chinese recipes.

    Aya Iwatani (left) and Evan Jaroff outside Chibanos, their Cuban-Chinese sandwich shop that opened on July 1 at 1127 Pine St.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Jaroff doesn’t view Chibanos as fusion but rather a tribute to the unique style of cooking he learned from his mom.

    “I don’t think of us as a Cuban restaurant. I don’t think of us as a Chinese restaurant,” he said. “Don’t put us in a box … We’re our own thing.”

    Chibanos, 1127 Pine St., chibanos.com. Hours: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

  • What’s an ice cream shop from Idaho doing in Fishtown?

    What’s an ice cream shop from Idaho doing in Fishtown?

    Yet another ice cream shop has opened on the Fishtown-Kensington border — this time with brownie sandwiches, gluten-free cones, and dog treats, all the way from the Potato State.

    Fast-growing Idaho ice cream chain Stella’s opened its first East Coast location at 1832 N. Front St. at the end of June.

    Named for husband-and-wife founder Brittney and Chad Hartley’s bulldog, Stella’s opened its first location in 2018 in Nampa, Idaho, a Boise suburb, where it gained a following for its ultra-creamy ice cream recipe, fresh baked goods, and ability to accommodate dietary restrictions. The chain grew to four locations in Idaho by 2020, and began franchising in 2023. Now, the company has 20 locations across Idaho, Arizona, Texas, Oregon, Tennessee, Indiana, Nebraska, and Utah, with more planned in the South and Midwest.

    Philly franchisee Shay Marlin had no previous ties to Idaho or the food industry — save for some swing shifts at friends’ ice cream parlors or being a summer regular at Sundae Best in Avalon — when he started pursuing a Stella’s franchise in 2024. At the time, all the tech executive had was a recommendation from a friend. Stella’s, the friend told him, was some of the best ice cream around, with a high butter fat content that makes each scoop rich and velvety.

    Stella’s Ice Cream, in Philadelphia, June 29, 2026.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Two years later, Marlin looks at home behind the counter, shaping waffle cones fresh off the press and helping baker and manager Lisa Evans dust brownies with powdered sugar. All of the location’s ice cream flavors are churned on-site using Stella’s proprietary mixes, said Marlin. Its trays of fudgy brownies and slightly crisp chocolate cookies are also baked on site daily, he said, to eventually be heaped with ice cream for sundaes and sandwiches.

    Business has been slow but steady, according to Marlin, with a few regulars whose dogs pull them inside daily for $2.50 “pupsicles,” the store’s pooch-friendly pops made of frozen yogurt and peanut butter on a Milk Bone.

    Stella’s is located smack in the middle of the neighborhood’s ice cream corridor. The chain is surrounded by competitors: Scoop shop and listening lounge Sweet 45, a block north on Front Street; viral soft serve purveyor 1-900-ICE-CREAM seven blocks south; Weckerly’s on Girard Avenue; chains Van Leeuwen and Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream around the corner on Frankford Avenue; not to mention one-offs like Fiore and Huda Burger that sell gourmet gelato and ice cream in tandem with sandwiches.

    Grasshopper Ice Cream at Stella’s Ice Cream, in Philadelphia, June 29, 2026.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Why did Marlin choose to plop his shop in a saturated market?

    “When we started working on the space, that one ice cream shop nearby wasn’t there,” said Marlin, referring to Sweet 45, which opened last September. “We were actually trying to get away from all the ice cream shops down the road.”

    Marlin also pointed out that residents on the Fishtown-Kensington divide might want a shop closer to their apartments, or one that is decidedly unpretentious. While Stella’s offers 24 flavors, the range is more classic than that of stores like Jeni’s and Van Leeuwen, which are currently scooping ice cream blended with goat cheese and trendy banana pudding, respectively.

    “A lot of people that live a little north of here have been excited for us because they don’t have to walk all the way down [Frankford Avenue],” just for some ice cream, Marlin said. “I think there’s room for all of us.”

    Cones at Stella’s Ice Cream, in Philadelphia, June 29, 2026.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    What makes Stella’s different?

    Stella’s specialty is variety. Of the shop’s 24 flavors, eight are dairy-free and made with a coconut milk base. Specials also cycle through weekly. When an Inquirer reporter visited just after its June grand opening, a root beer flavor that tasted like a cold glass of A&W (minus the carbonation) was on rotation.

    Otherwise, the shop’s ice cream offerings are riffs on parlor classics, like Rocky Road, salted caramel thick with swirls of caramel sauce, and Grasshopper, a take on mint chip that swaps chocolate for chunks of Oreo cookies. Already, Marlin said, the flavor is the shop’s bestseller. A single scoop is $6.25, with a dollar upcharge for dairy-free flavors, putting it about on par with the neighborhood’s other shops.

    Also on offer: gluten-free waffle and sugar cones — a rarity at ice cream shops — stored separately from their regular counterparts to avoid cross-contamination. There are also novelties galore, including 5-inch chocolate chip cookie bowls for sundaes and hybrid brownie-cookie ice cream sandwiches. To-go pints and ice cream cakes are available in a fridge.

    Ice cream at Stella’s Ice Cream, in Philadelphia, June 29, 2026.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Running Stella’s has been a big adjustment for Marlin, whose training consisted of a weeklong ice cream intensive in Idaho at the chain’s first location. By day, Marlin was making “gallons and gallons of ice cream” and learning things like extrusion, the process by which ice cream is shaped for things like bars or premade sandwiches. By night, he worked the store’s register.

    Marlin called himself an “average” ice cream-making student at best, but the 10-to-12-hour days gave him a newfound appreciation for the power of the scoop.

    “I don’t think people come into an ice cream shop mad at the world,” he said. “Everyone’s there to have a good time.”


    Stella’s Ice Cream, 1832 N. Front St., 215-550-1032, stellasicecream.com. Hours: Noon-10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; noon-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

  • Stephen Starr settles with the National Labor Relations Board over union busting allegations at D.C. steakhouse

    Stephen Starr settles with the National Labor Relations Board over union busting allegations at D.C. steakhouse

    Philadelphia-based restaurateur Stephen Starr and his company, Starr Restaurants, settled with the National Labor Relations Board in May over union-busting allegations at his D.C. steakhouse St. Anselm, according to a copy of the settlement agreement obtained by the Inquirer.

    The move is the latest in a lengthy dispute between Starr Restaurants and D.C. union Unite Here Local 25 at St. Anselm, where staffers voted 51 to 42 in favor of unionizing in February 2025. Now more than 16 months later, Starr restaurants has yet to recognize the union, with more pending litigation leaving St. Anselm workers in limbo.

    Reached on May 25, the settlement resolves a set of unfair labor practice (ULP) allegations that Local 25 filed with the NLRB on behalf of St. Anselm employees in June 2025. They alleged that Starr and a St. Anselm supervisor made promises of improved benefits for workers who voted against the union and directly coerced employees with false information. In one instance, they alleged, Starr interrogated a host about her involvement with Local 25 during a one-on-one conversation.

    Starr “made a lot of promises about sick pay, about vacation pay,” Ana Reyes, a St. Anselm line cook, previously told the Inquirer, recalling a meeting the restaurateur had with staff during the union drive.

    After an investigation, the NLRB’s general counsel found merit in the accusations that Starr Restaurants had violated the National Labor Relations Act, and it pursued charges against the company.

    The settlement is not an admittance of wrongdoing and is similar to the standard penalty Starr Restaurants could have received had the case played out fully, according to James M. Cooney, a Rutgers University labor and employment law professor.

    St. Anselm, Stephen Starr’s D.C. steakhouse.Jennifer Chase

    The agreement requires Starr Restaurants to post a notice in St. Anselm for 60 days stating that the company will not:

    • “Threaten you that it would be futile” to unionize,
    • Solicit complaints and “imply that we will fix them” in order to discourage union support,
    • Give new or better wages and benefits to discourage unionizing,
    • Or “promise to pay you for previously unpaid leave” to dissuade workers from supporting a union.

    The settlement “allows us to move on and get back to the business of delivering amazing hospitality to our guests,” a spokesperson for St. Anselm said in a statement. “We have vigorously denied, and continue to deny, all allegations listed in the original complaint, and are fully complying with the terms of the settlement while making no admission of violation.”

    The agreement is separate from a second case that Starr Restaurants filed with the NLRB last February objecting to the results of St. Anselm’s union election. It alleges Local 25 organizers bullied and intimidated employees into backing the union.

    A delegation of workers pose in front Stephen Starr’s D.C. steakhouse St. Anselm before delivering their union petition in Feb. 2025.UNITE HERE Local 25

    That case remains open, and a hearing was held in mid-June where the NLRB heard testimony from witnesses on both sides. Unite Here Local 25, which represents more than 7,500 hospitality workers, is optimistic that settlement will open up a path to union recognition.

    “We feel vindicated,” said Paul Schwalb, Local 25’s executive secretary-treasurer. “It’s the same board that’s going to oversee [the unionization case], and we are quite confident — because we did actually follow labor law — that at the end of the day this unit will be certified, and all the objections that Stephen Starr and his many lawyers have filed will be thrown out because they are not true.”

    Legalese that ‘meant nothing’

    The battle between Starr Restaurants and Local 25 began last January, when the union began to organize at three of Starr’s seven D.C restaurants: Pastis, a French bistro; the Parc-inspired Le Diplomate; and St. Anselm, an upscale steakhouse.

    The efforts — which coincided with union drives at two other high-profile D.C restaurants — stood to add 500 members to Local 25. St. Anselm was the only one that voted to unionize. (Local 25 lost the union election at Pastis, and Le Diplomate’s has been suspended indefinitely.)

    A picket line outside of Stephen Starr’s D.C. restaurant Le Diplomate, led by Unite Here Local 25 after Starr Restaurants challenged a unionization vote at St. Anselm.UNITE HERE Local 25

    Almost immediately, relations soured between Starr Restaurants and Local 25. The restaurant group hired anti-union consultants to meet with St. Anselm staff, Washingtonian magazine reported, while other employees told food publication Eater that Local 25 organizers were ambushing them at their homes to sign cards indicating they wanted a union vote.

    Local 25 also called for an ongoing boycott of Starr’s D.C. restaurants — including those where no union efforts were taking place. Top Democrats such as Sen. Bernie Sanders, Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortes, and Sen. Chuck Schumer signed on.

    Legally, the settlement doesn’t state that Starr Restaurants broke any laws or affirm any of the union’s allegations. In practice, however, Cooney said that workers and employees might have a different interpretation.

    Posting a notice “doesn’t sound very intimidating on its face, but employers will sometimes fight tooth and nail over the wording” or try to hide them, said Cooney. “Looking at it from the viewpoint of the common worker, if they see that notice … I think they would see it as an indication that a company violated the law.”

    Starr Restaurants posted the notice required by the settlement inside St. Anselm on June 16 and also emailed a copy to staff.

    Greg Varney (left) and Ana Reyes, both with Unite Here Local 25, outside Starr headquarters at 134 Market St. in July 2025.
    Alejandro A. Alvarez / Staff Photographer

    When St. Anselm server Abigail Dunki-Jacobs received the email, it felt like “a bunch of legalese … that meant nothing,” she told The Inquirer. Dunki-Jacobs, who voted against the union, said she hasn’t heard much chatter among her colleagues after it was posted.

    “It just feels like a list of facts to me,” she said. “Nobody even really gives a shit about it.”

    Delays upon delays

    Local 25 organizers and employees who voted for the union also find the settlement meaningless.

    Starr Restaurants “didn’t have to admit to doing anything wrong with the statement they made,” said Ellery Grimm, a member of support staff at St. Anselm who helped organize the union drive. “We’ll be vindicated when we have our contract.”

    St. Anselm’s union election case has sat unresolved with the NLRB for nearly a year and half, which Cooney said was abnormal. The agency tends to prioritize certifying election results over unfair labor practice allegations.

    The NLRB has been beleaguered by delays for more than year, first from the firing of a board member that left the agency unable to issue rulings, and then from a government shutdown that furloughed employees.

    Now, the NLRB faces a staffing and budget shortfall that has made it difficult to catch up on its backlog. In May, the agency transferred roughly 3,500 unassigned cases from regional offices — including Region 5, where St. Anselm’s case is located.

    The delays have caused at least one St. Anselm employee to quit. Bridget Killburn, a baker at the steakhouse, left in April after more than three years at the restaurant. She now works at a bakery in Maryland that she said offered higher pay and more time off — two things she hoped the union would’ve won by now.

    A chef in the kitchen at Le Diplomate, one of Stephen Starr’s three D.C. restaurants that Unite Here Local 25 attempted to unionize.

    “I’m someone who wants a very stable job with good pay, good benefits. At this rate, it felt like I was never going to get those things so I needed to try and find a workplace who would allow me to have them,” Killburn said.

    Schwalb acknowledged that Local 25 hasn’t done any public campaigning at St. Anselm in months, and has abandoned the union drives at Starr’s other restaurants until all litigation is resolved.

    “Rome and the restaurant union — neither one will be built in a day,” he said.

  • The water ice martini is the quintessential Philly summer cocktail

    The water ice martini is the quintessential Philly summer cocktail

    If you were to distill the energy of a South Philly summer into a cocktail, it might look like water ice shaken with vodka in a martini glass, garnished with a pretzel stick. It would taste like the syrupy-sweet melted ice left in the cup and be crushable enough to knock back on a hot afternoon.

    That’s the water ice martini, a cocktail invented in the early 2000s at one of the neighborhood’s most famous red sauce joints. The drink was a hidden gem for decades, but has found new life this summer as copycats and riffs emerge at bars around Philly and down the Shore that are looking to stand out in a sea of Hugo spritzes, espresso ‘tinis, and soft serve margaritas.

    “Anyone that’s grown up in South Philadelphia grew up on water ice with pretzel sticks and pumpkin seeds. Its been a thing in my family for three generations,” said Vera Masi, the sales manager at Popi’s Restaurant in Packer Park, where the cocktail recently went viral. “Pairing that with a martini is a guaranteed hit.”

    The first water ice martini on record was poured in 2002 at Saloon by Anthony Cardullo, the third-generation John’s Water Ice owner who was then just a bartender. Called the Iceberg, the drink involves adding a scoop of John’s lemon water ice to a shaker with limoncello and Ketel One Citreon vodka. It then gets poured over a second scoop of lemon water ice in a glass.

    Gigi Bello, bar manager at Saloon, makes an Iceberg martini using lemon water from John’s. The cocktail has remained a bestseller since they started serving it in 2002.Allie Ippolito / For The Inquirer

    It’s the restaurant’s most enduring cocktail hit, according to manager Frankie Santore. Saloon sells at least 150 Icebergs per week in the summer, he said, making it their bestseller. To keep up, Cardullo has to drop off gallons of fresh made water ice each week.

    Other versions have cycled through Saloon — a pineapple ice painkiller and a melon ice midori sour, to name a few — but the Iceberg is the only one that has lasted, most recently inspiring a dupe that uses Cardullo’s recipe at the Ventnor Social in New Jersey. The restaurant has “never for a second” thought to use anything other than John’s water ice for its cocktails.

    “It’s all fresh fruit,” Santore said. “Anthony’s squeezing the lemons himself.”

    Gigi Bello, bar manager at Saloon, pours an Iceberg martini.Allie Ippolito / For The Inquirer

    Popi’s started serving their own versions of the water ice martini last summer after getting the idea from Rowhome Magazine editors Dorette Jackson and Dawn Rhodes. The 33-year-old Italian restaurant sources its water ice from Pop’s for two reasons, owner Gina Rucci said: It’s down the street, and “our names went together.”

    Popi’s has its own version of a lemon ice martini (aptly called the Limoncellotini), but its other offerings pull from the colors of the rainbow, like a neon orange mango water ice martini called the Gritty and a vibrant red strawberry water ice daiquiri. The restaurant used to sell about 20 a day last summer, said bar manager Laura Kreschollek. Now, they’re averaging 50.

    “People were coming in just for these,” said Masi. “We kept running out of water ice and were sneaking out to Pop’s in the middle of the day.”

    A strawberry daiquiri made with Pop’s Homemade Italian Ice at Popi’s Restaurant, 3120 S. 20th St.Beatrice Forman / Staff

    Naturally, the evolution would continue with spiked gelati. Philly could get its first in the early fall, when James Beard Award-winning South Jersey bartender Danny Childs aims to open his bar Field Day in Northern Liberties.

    Childs told The Inquirer he plans to serve the treat year round using his signature Slow Drinks approach. While the vanilla soft serve will come from 1-900-ICE-CREAM, Childs said, the boozy water ice will be made from scratch with local and foraged produce that change with the season. He’s envisioning a lineup of cherry, blueberry, and pawpaw (a fruit native to the Mid-Atlantic that tastes like a mango) to start.

    The cocktail-dessert hybrid was driven by a mix of nostalgia and peer pressure. Childs wanted a nod to his childhood in Delaware County, where he grew up using a soft pretzel as a spoon to scoop up water ice. He also wanted to one-up the alcohol-infused ice creams already on the market.

    “I was like, ‘Someone is going to do spiked gelati before us,’” Childs said. ”We have to hurry.”

    The Iceberg martini from Saloon, which was created by current John’s Water Ice owner Anthony Cardullo.Allie Ippolito / For The Inquirer

    Here are four places where you can find boozy water ice in all its forms, from vodka-infused scoops to martinis.

    Where to find boozy water ice in Philly

    Saloon

    This classic Italian joint in Bella Vista has been serving its signature $18 Iceberg martini since 2002, when current John’s Water Ice owner Anthony Cardullo invented it while working at the restaurant’s bar. It does indeed look like icebergs disintegrating into the Arctic as it melts, but the drink goes down easy — sweet, icy, and citrusy without tasting artificial. Also be on the lookout for Cardullo’s nightly water ice cocktail specials.

    📍750 S. Seventh St. 📞 215-627-1811, 🌐 saloonrestaurant.net

    A lineup of water ice martinis made with Pop’s homemade Italian ice at Popi’s Restaurant. Clockwise from left: The Pineapple Pizzaz, Limoncellotini, piña colada, strawberry daiquiri, and the Gritty.Beatrice Forman / Staff

    Popi’s Restaurant

    At Popi’s, the pours are heavy and the water ice is extra sweet. This 33-year-old Italian restaurant near the sports complex in Packer Park gained a new reputation in 2025 when it started serving brightly colored cocktails sweetened with Pop’s homemade Italian ice. Normally $16 and $20 during the World Cup, the cocktails run the gamut from the Gritty (a vodka martini with orange juice and mango water ice) and Pineapple Pizzaz (a pineapple vodka martini with pineapple water ice) to a strawberry daiquiri with a disk of — you guessed it — strawberry water ice floating in the middle. If you’re not susceptible to a sugar rush, it’s easy to have several in one sitting.

    📍3120 S. 20th St. 📞 215-755-7180 🌐 popisrestaurant.com

    Triangle Tavern

    Best known for its excellent vegan wings and cheesesteaks, Triangle Tavern also serves scratch-made boozy water ice year round. Flavors rotate seasonally and range from mango and pomegranate in the summer to pumpkin spice in the fall and crisp peppermint in the winter. Spun in a slushie machine with a handle of vodka, the $12 cocktails are served in a pint glass garnished with a hard pretzel rod for an extra dose of South Philly flair.

    📍1338 S. 10th St. 📞 215-800-1992 🌐 triangletavernphilly.com

    The Philly Phreeze sundae at Tipsy Scoop in Rittenhouse Square, which is comprised of vodka-infused cherry water ice topped with gummy candies.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Tipsy Scoop

    This New York City-based ice cream chain has been infusing ice cream and sorbet with alcohol since 2013. After opening its first Philly outpost inside the Rittenhouse Square BOTLD location, the brand added a cherry water ice spiked with vodka to its menu. Our suggestion: Order the $14 sundae version — which comes topped with chewy cherry and pineapple gummies in a novelty cup — and consider springing for the chilled vodka shooter. It’s entirely too much in the best way possible, and the water ice is delightful despite being made by a New Yorker. Red enough to stain your tongue, it tastes like a handful of maraschino cherries.

    📍119 S. 18th St. 📞 917-388-2862 🌐tipsyscoop.com/pages/philadelphia

  • Why Fountain Porter raised the price of its iconic burger

    Why Fountain Porter raised the price of its iconic burger

    In 2026, you either die a bargain or stay around long enough to get hit by inflation. In other words, Fountain Porter’s iconic $6 burger is now $7, roughly the price of a fancy latte or a McDonald’s Quarter Pounder with cheese after tax.

    The East Passyunk neighborhood bar made the nearly 17% price increase official last Wednesday, said owner Evan Clancy, after months of watching the prices of ingredients creep up.

    Five days later, a post appeared in the popular r/PhiladelphiaEats subreddit breaking the news like a bargain hunting, beer-loving version of Paul Revere. “Recession indicator: Fountain Porter has officially raised the price of their burger,” the post read. “End of era.”

    Commenters were aghast.

    “Noooooooo,” bemoaned one Redditor. “Bring back boiled peanuts!” shouted another. A third cried of shrinkflation, alleging that the patty had gotten smaller. But most agreed on one thing: the burger is still dirt cheap and delicious.

    “I still ate three total this past weekend,” wrote another Reddit user, undeterred by the change.

    Recession Indicator: Fountain Porter has officially raised the price of their burger
    by
    u/grumdruitar in
    PhiladelphiaEats

    This isn’t first time inflation has come for Fountain Porter: When Clancy opened the bar at 1601 S. 10th St. in 2012, its burgers were just $5. Somewhere along the way — Clancy couldn’t recall when — he raised the price to $6 in recognition of the labor his staff put in to running a pub that, in many ways, also doubles as a burger factory.

    Fountain Porter makes upwards of 800 burgers a week, Clancy said, with the three cooks alone dedicated just to grilling and flipping patties. It’s also the platonic ideal of the sandwich, comprised of a modest beef patty with a salty char topped with American cheese, crisp lettuce, and a tomato slice on a Martin’s potato bun with two pickle chips on the side.

    The burger and its price — along with the bar’s deep beer list, dirty martini, and solid Guinness pour — has cemented Fountain Porter’s status as a Philly icon, beloved equally by world class chefs and people who just really like eating and drinking.

    “Their burger is the perfect size — not too small, not too big — and their lettuce is always cold and crispy,” Rachel Lorn, the co-owner of acclaimed South Philly restaurants Mawn and Sao, previously told The Inquirer.

    The crowd is reflected in a mirror at Fountain Porter at 1601 S. 10th St. in 2021.CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer

    The burger will remained unchanged despite the price increase, Clancy said. He also doesn’t think it will harm the bar’s reputation, and was shocked that people cared enough to post about it on social media.

    “If the burger is not good at $7, then it’s really not that good at all. And that’s not on me, that’s on whoever is heaping the praise,” said Clancy. “It’s never been about a budget burger. It’s about being fair and honest. That’s what a burger is supposed to be.”

    The change was borne out of necessity, Clancy explained, driven by the across-the-board inflation that has plagued grocery store items for the past several months, with explanations ranging from climate change and supply chain bottlenecks to war.

    Drinks on the bar at Fountain Porter at 1601 S. 10th St. in 2021.CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer

    The price of the beef Fountain Porter uses in its burgers nearly doubled over the past two months, Clancy said, and he expects it to keep rising. The cost of tomatoes has also risen sharply and varies daily due to a mixture of tariffs and crop shortages, making it difficult for Clancy to budget. And, Clancy said, that despite Fountain Porter’s high volume of burgers, “we’re not making a lot of money off them.”

    Besides, Clancy wondered, why shouldn’t his burger be allowed to get more expensive if everything else is?

    “I know it’s a change, but we raised the price twice in 13 years, Clancy said. ”Tell me something else that hasn’t changed the price a lot in 13 years.”

  • Roxanne reopens, this time with a food license and lunch menu

    Roxanne reopens, this time with a food license and lunch menu

    After a 10-week shutdown and over three years of operating without a food license, Roxanne is ready to open — this time with a license to operate, a passed health inspection, and a new lunch menu.

    The Department of Licenses and Inspections shut down the Queen Village restaurant in April. By May, the restaurant was quietly taking reservations for mid-June via Resy. Now, chef-owner Alexandra Holt has confirmed that Roxanne’s first seating will be tonight.

    “See u tomorrow,” Holt posted Tuesday afternoon via a story on Roxanne’s Instagram account, which disappear after 24 hours. The Michelin-recommended restaurant’s biography on the platform also declares it as “open.”

    Roxanne had been operating without a required food preparation and serving license since it first opened at 912 Christian St. in 2022, and again when it moved to its current location, at 607 S. Second St., at the end of 2024, L&I confirmed after an Inquirer search of city records.

    The restaurant had also never received a health inspection during the years it operated at either location, the Department of Public Health confirmed after a separate search of health inspection records.

    “Roxanne’s was never inspected [by the health department] because it was never legally operating,” Department of Public Health Department spokesperson James Garrow previously told The Inquirer.

    A cease operations notice posted on the restaurant Roxanne’s front door on May 21, 2026, at 607 S. Second St. The Michelin-recommended Queen Village restaurant has now passed a health inspection and obtained a food license.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    Garrow now confirms that Roxanne’s license plan of review, a crucial step to getting proper permitting, had been approved in May. The restaurant passed a health inspection on June 11, based on department records. That same day, Roxanne received a food preparation and serving license from L&I, according to records obtained by The Inquirer. The license expires June 12, 2027.

    The city has yet to fine Roxanne for any violations, and it is unclear if it plans to do so. Representatives for L&I and the city’s law department did not immediately respond to requests for comment.

    L&I’s inspections, safety, and compliance division fines businesses up to $300 per day for operating without a license after receiving a citation. “Cases involving businesses that never obtained a license are handled by the court, with penalties determined during legal proceedings,” L&I spokesperson Shemeka Moore previously told The Inquirer.

    Holt — Roxanne’s chef and owner — did not respond to repeated requests for comments regarding the restaurant’s opening plans or any changes it made during the licensure process.

    L&I initially issued Roxanne a cease operations order on April 6. The restaurant first covered it with pink construction paper and painter’s tape, an act that is against the law in Philadelphia and carries a $2,000 fine.

    “I operate with a really small team, so all mistakes are definitely my mistakes,” Holt told The Inquirer in April. “I’m not the best at this [business] stuff.”

    The raw cheesesteak at Roxanne in Philadelphia, which is one the first restaurants in the city recommended by the Michelin Guide.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    A BYOB with lunch

    The shift to operating legally has brought a slew of changes to Roxanne. The restaurant is now a BYOB.

    Initially, Roxanne carried “cocktails, beer, and PA wines,” according to a screenshot of the restaurant’s FAQ from earlier this year.

    A search of Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board records did not return a liquor license for Roxanne at 607 S. Second St. While some restaurants are permitted to serve alcohol through partnerships with in-state wineries, breweries, or distilleries, “the PLCB’s review of its records did not immediately reveal an apparent connection between any licensee” and Roxanne, a spokesperson for the PLCB previously told The Inquirer.

    Wine and spirits displayed by the bar at Roxanne on May 1, 2025. The restaurant is now a BYOB.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Now, the restaurant serves a trio of non-alcoholic cocktails in flavors that include toasted cinnamon and yuzu, and lemon marmalade and hibiscus.

    Also new: The restaurant now has a lunch menu with items that span $8 for curly fries to $40 for an omelet 😉 with crab and sungold tomatoes. Other new additions include a tuna melt on challah bread, a “pretty big” sticky toffee waffle with soft serve ice cream, and spaghetti with meatballs.

    It is unclear how and when Roxanne plans to serve lunch. The restaurant has long functioned with Holt working alone in the kitchen and three front-of-house employees. Roxanne also has no lunch hours posted to its website yet. Its Google Business profile lists hours operation as 6 to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.

    The cheeseburger dessert with a chocolate sundae at Roxanne.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    This is not the first time Roxanne has undergone a major transformation.

    When Holt opened Roxanne it 2022, its eight-course tasting menu functioned like a dinner theater, with shifting offerings that allowed Holt to process emotions like grief and political disillusionment through what she once described as “blob” food.

    Esquire named that version of Roxanne one of the Best New Restaurants in America in 2022. Our own food critic Craig LaBan, however, found it “more interesting than delicious.”

    Two years later, Holt relocated Roxanne to Queen Village, where it hit its stride with a pared-down tasting menu of raw cheesesteaks, dessert cheeseburgers, and fancy deli meats. Suddenly, LaBan loved it. So did the storied Michelin Guide, which recommended the restaurant on its first trip to Philly.

    “Restaurants could learn a thing or two from this eccentric spot in Old Town [sic],” the guide said of Roxanne. “Chef Alexandra Holt just wants to cook — and cook she can.”

  • Philly takes home two wins at the 2026 James Beard Awards

    Philly takes home two wins at the 2026 James Beard Awards

    Philadelphia can now add two more food awards to its shelf.

    Restaurants and chefs from the City of Brotherly Love took home wins in two categories Monday night in Chicago at the 2026 James Beard Awards, considered to be the most prestigious restaurant industry honor in the United States.

    The showing builds on the momentum of last year, when Mawn’s Phila Lorn took home the title of Emerging Chef, an award he dedicated at the time to “the assumption” that the Cambodian noodle house in Bella Vista wasn’t “popular enough,” “focused enough,” or ”good enough” to win.

    Now the assumption isn’t that Philly is an underdog. It’s that we’re a full-on culinary powerhouse.

    Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon’s Thai restaurant Kalaya won outstanding restaurant, an award that recognizes “consistent excellence” in food, hospitality, and operations.

    Suntaranon originally opened the restaurant — known for its ornate dumplings — in 2019 in what is currently Mawn’s location, where it was nominated in 2020 for Best New Restaurant. In 2022, Kalaya moved to a bigger space just off Frankford Avenue in Kensington, where it has flourished, earning a Michelin Guide recommendation, a spot on The Inquirer’s The 76, and, in 2023, Suntaranon’s first Beard Award for best chef, Mid-Atlantic.

    Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon as seen through the line at her restaurant Kalaya in Fishtown on August 22, 2024.Neal Santos

    “This award means a lot to me because it’s validation for Thai food and validation for the city of Philadelphia that we’re a world-class food city,” Suntaranon, in a shimmering floor-length orange gown, said backstage.

    Chef Jesse Ito of Royal Sushi & Izakaya on Monday night took home his first James Beard Award, for best chef, Mid-Atlantic. “It’s been a long ride,” Ito said from the stage at the Lyric Opera theater.

    Indeed it has.

    The chef behind the notoriously-hard-to-get-into Queen Village omakase counter and its more casual bar and restaurant has been nominated nine times for the award, which honors the top culinary talent across Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, and Washington. This go-around, Ito beat out two-time finalist Amanda Shulman — whose Her Place Supper Club earned one of Philly’s first Michelin stars last year — and Omar Tate and Cybille St.Aude-Tate of Honeysuckle, who transformed their cafe-market into a Michelin-recommended prix fixe restaurant in 2025.

    During his acceptance speech, Ito invoked the oft-quoted Serenity Prayer and thanked his parents, who ran the Cinnaminson and Haddonfield sushi restaurant Fuji for 40 years, before selling. It’s where Ito worked his first restaurant job as a dishwasher, and a place he has long credited for helping him find his footing in the restaurant industry.

    Chef Jesse Ito prepares a course during the omakase at Royal Sushi and Izakaya on Tuesday, Oct. 28, 2025, in Philadelphia.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    “We went through so much,” Ito said, choking up. “Restaurants are glamorous, and it seems great, but we went through so much hardship. I’ll never forget the struggle just to get here.”

    Royal Sushi’s success has also, at times, been its greatest challenge: The $355, 16-seat omakase prepared by Ito is one of the toughest seats to score in Philly, which potentially led to the restaurant losing out on a Michelin star last year. At the same time, the restaurant earned a spot on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2025 and high praise from The Inquirer, landing on The 76 two years in a row.

    The pendulum swing of accolades keeps Ito on his toes. He told The Inquirer over the phone Monday night that he wasn’t certain what made this year different from all the others.

    “I don’t know how it all works,” Ito said. “I came to Chicago 99% certain that I was going to lose.”

    Now that he’s won, Ito plans to celebrate by singing Harry Styles’ “Sign of the Times” and “Creep” by Radiohead at karaoke — somber choices for a victorious night.

    “They’re just my songs,” said Ito. “I have to sing them.”

    Who else represented Philly?

    Philly restaurants and chefs didn’t take home medals in every category.

    Emmett, the Levantine-inspired Kensington restaurant from chef Evan Snyder, was nominated for best new restaurant. The award ultimately went to Lei, a New York City wine bar that serves Chinese food. Named after Snyder’s first-born, Emmett had a quick rise after its January 2025 opening: In the past year, it made its first appearance on The 76 and was named one of the best new restaurants in the U.S. by Esquire magazine.

    From left: The gaeng pae, khao mun klone, and moo yaang prik at Kalaya on Wednesday, Sept. 3, 2025, in Philadelphia.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    First-time nominee Justine MacNeil did not take home the award for outstanding pastry chef or baker, which went to Susan Bay of Washington’s buzzy Vietnamese restaurant Moon Rabbit. At Fiore — the East Kensington cafe MacNeil co-owns with husband Ed Crochet — the former fine dining pastry chef churns out thousands of classic Italian pastries a week, from oversize maritozzi to pistachio cornetti that have earned praise from 2017 James Beard Award-winner Greg Vernick and Inquirer critic Craig LaBan, among others.

    Friday Saturday Sunday lost out on its second Beard Award on Monday, this time for outstanding bar. Its downstairs, first-come-first-served Lovers Bar was nominated for the honor, which instead went to Portland, Ore., whisky bar Scotch Lounge, a recent addition to the list of North America’s 50 Best Bars from World’s 50 Best. Friday Saturday Sunday won its first Beard award in 2023 for outstanding restaurant, and earned one of Philly’s first Michelin stars in 2025.

    The deluxe nigiri box for take-out at Royal Izakaya, in a photograph from 2020.Courtesy Royal Izakaya / Jesse Ito

    The Inquirer also took home hardware of its own Sunday night during the James Beard Media Awards, also in Chicago. Inquirer staff photographer Monica Herndon won for narrative photography for “The hunt for life-giving ‘country food’ in the Canadian Arctic.” The photo essay chronicled the food traditions of the Inukjuak, a remote Inuit community in northern Québec. It accompanied reporting from Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan about how the community continues to hunt and preserve foods such as caribou and beluga despite the challenges of climate change.

    Philadelphia had 13 semifinalists across eight categories when the Beard Awards were announced in January. They included chef Greg Vernick for outstanding restaurateur; Amá’s Frankie Ramirez for emerging chef; Almanac in Old City for best new bar; and deli magnate Russ Cowan and Michelin Green Star winner Ian Graye of the vegan restaurant Pietramala, both for best chef, Mid-Atlantic.

    All three were later eliminated from the finalists’ list.

    CHICAGO, ILLINOIS – JUNE 13: Monica Herndon, winner of the Narrative Photography Award, speaks onstage during the 2026 James Beard Media Awards at the Art Institute of Chicago on June 13, 2026, in Chicago.Jeff Schear / Getty Images for the James Beard Foundation

    The night’s showing adds one more win from February when Center City stalwart Oyster House was named an American classic, which honors local restaurants across the U.S. with “timeless appeal that serve quality food and are beloved by their communities.” Representatives from the Philly mainstay were in Chicago to receive their medals in person.

    “I am very fortunate that I live in Philly. People are loving and caring [here]. People are strong, and we all come together to support one another,” Suntaranon said. “Go Birds!”