Tag: Le Virtù

  • In Nolan’s ‘Odyssey,’ food and feasting are vehicles for disgust. What a shame.

    In Nolan’s ‘Odyssey,’ food and feasting are vehicles for disgust. What a shame.

    It is immensely exciting to me that right now, everyone is talking about The Odyssey. It’s also a little weird.

    I studied classics in graduate school and before I became a chef and then food writer, I taught Ancient Greek language and Greek and Roman epic poetry both in their original languages and in translation. I traced how Odysseus became Ulysses and how his story was retold through the ages, particularly in other forms of epic poetry. In my everyday life and at The Inquirer, nobody in the last decade has asked me about epic poetry, except for college students wanting help with their homework.

    But I’ll tell you how I felt about Nolan’s version of the poem.

    I felt hungry.

    In Christopher Nolan’s blockbuster movie, Odysseus’ men slurp up what look like tapeworms as the witch Circe, played by Samantha Morton, forcibly manipulates their faces, pulling their mouths into the form of pig snouts. She molds their faces and bodies like clay until the men are transformed into pigs, the animals that best represent their brutish, stupid behavior.

    It’s brilliant, stomach-churning, and wild, an extraordinarily visceral adaptation of the original Homeric text. It’s one of the rare scenes in Nolan’s adaptation of The Odyssey where one sees actual food, despite the food being wholly unappetizing.

    This image released by Universal Pictures shows Matt Damon as Odysseus in a scene from “The Odyssey.” (Melinda Sue Gordon/Universal Pictures via AP)Melinda Sue Gordon

    Reading The Odyssey, though, makes me crave cheese and cakes that have been drizzled with honey, wine to wash down roasted meats like lechon or porchetta, sharing in the heady scent with friends, dining companions, and the gods, for whom the savor (or the aroma) is an offering.

    Watching Nolan’s movie also makes me long for those things, but due to their general absence. None of the food portrayed is conducive to conjuring up the pleasurable excess that is the very drumbeat of the Homeric text.

    In Nolan’s Odyssey, food and feasting are vehicles for disgust.

    The film is undoubtedly a cinematic masterpiece. It is the latest iteration — and I would even venture, translation — of Homer’s Odyssey.

    Back in eighth- or ninth-century BC, the bard, poet, or perhaps multiple bards, created what would be the longest-running superhero franchises of all time, matched only by the authors of the Old Testament. (And the two texts have a lot in common in how they were assembled, with language cobbled together from different eras).

    This image released by Universal Pictures shows, (from left) Mia Goth as Melantho and Anne Hathaway as Penelope, in a scene from “The Odyssey.” (Melinda Sue Gordon/Universal Pictures via AP)Melinda Sue Gordon

    In both translation theory and storytelling, we can accept variances. In superhero movies and movie franchises, we welcome them.

    We can accept different actors playing the same roles. We eagerly anticipate actors’ interpretations of classic characters — just think of how we hunger for news of who will play the next James Bond or Batman.

    Translation theory generally dictates translations need to be updated every generation or so, to match the language of the times. The French philosopher Jacques Derrida saw translation as a never-ending process. It is a task that is necessary and impossible at the same time, he wrote in “Des tours de Babel” in 1985, as language has no fixed, stable meaning.

    This image released by Universal Pictures shows a scene from “The Odyssey.” (Melinda Sue Gordon/Universal Pictures via AP)Melinda Sue Gordon

    Did I expect Nolan’s Odyssey to hew to the text? I did not. But what I did long for was emotion and catharsis (Aristotle’s theory of which was developed four centuries after The Odyssey was composed), and food. I also hoped for a narrator, or bard tying the story together, conveying it to us, an audience at a feast.

    The lack of a narrator shows how much we have changed in nearly 3,000 years. Nolan’s Odyssey is episodic; he doesn’t tell us a story, he shows us one. We no longer gather at dinner and listen to stories performed. We gather for The Odyssey at movie theaters, silent. We gather at our phones. Our community is in the ether.

    Perhaps in the age of TikTok and ever-shortening attention spans, Nolan’s episodic, somewhat disjointed retold narrative is perfect. It is our generation’s translation. The one we deserve.

    Just as sex has been expunged from Nolan’s Odyssey, so have the food and Homer’s lengthy descriptions of feasting. Food is central to the original text. In the movie, I recall a suitor gnawing on one drumstick. There is no free-flowing wine, just drunkenness — effects of the invisible wine.

    I dare you to pick up Emily Wilson’s translation of The Odyssey (which helped inspire Nolan) and not smell the smoke of roasting pigs; not want to lick your fingers of dribbles of floral, fragrant honey; not ache for a creamy, salty cheese like ricotta salata, which was probably what is hanging in the Cyclops’ cave. These aren’t a translator’s embellishments. They are threaded throughout the original Greek, so much so that you may feel rather beaten over the head with how often people are feasting in The Odyssey.

    This image released by Universal Pictures shows Matt Damon as Odysseus, left, and Zendaya as Athen, in a scene from “The Odyssey.” (Melinda Sue Gordon/Universal Pictures via AP)Melinda Sue Gordon

    In Homer, wine is everywhere; the sea itself is like wine. In Nolan, we never see it.

    The code of xenia, a guest-host relationship (often translated as “hospitality”), which Nolan calls “Zeus’ law” in the movie, dictates that you host guests, offer them food, and feast with them. Xenia was the backbone of society and decency in Homeric Greece.

    Watching The Odyssey made me hungry, and given that it’s three hours long, it’ll probably make you hungry, too. Despite AMC Dine-In’s rather vast menu, its high sodium warnings gave me pause. I could not feast in the presence of watching The Odyssey (something its original listeners surely would have done), and could not bring myself to eat the chicken wings. So after you skip the AMC wings, go forth and dine like a Homeric hero.

    Compensate for the lack of feasting in Nolan’s Odyssey.

    This image released by Universal Pictures shows a scene from “The Odyssey.” (Melinda Sue Gordon/Universal Pictures via AP)Melinda Sue Gordon

    Go to Perla and grasp your lechon like Odysseus did when he landed on Ithaca’s shores and went to the cottage of Eumaeus, the swineherd, before he continued on home. Seek after North by Texas, the roving barbecue pop-up, just as Odysseus’ men held out until they could no longer and barbecued one of Apollo’s herd. Order a porchetta from Esposito’s or Porco’s Porchetteria and have all your friends over. Look for Le Virtù’s whole roasted goat, inhale the remnants of smoke, dig in with your hands. Grab yourself a cheesecake, imagine it to be Circe’s “kukion,” drizzle it with honey, and wash it down with wine.

    When I go to restaurants as part of my job, I always, at the end of each meal, ask my dining companions two questions that cut straight to the point: Would you come back? And would you recommend it to others?

    The answers to these are generally the same, both yes or both no. To hold Nolan’s Odyssey to the same parameters as a meal, I would not watch it again, but I would recommend it to others.

    Just please, go get a nice dinner afterward.

  • This chiller-than-happy-hour European drinking tradition is taking over Philly

    This chiller-than-happy-hour European drinking tradition is taking over Philly

    As the most popular dinner reservation times trend earlier and daycaps (aka late afternoon drinks) replace post-dinner cocktails, some Philadelphia bars and restaurants are forgoing happy hour for something with a chiller, convivial vibe: aperitivo.

    A longstanding European tradition, aperitivo — which means “to open” in Italian — refers to the late afternoon and early evening hours ripe for lighter-paced drinking and snacking. While other countries have their own words for it (“apéro” in France, “la hora del Vermut” in Spain), the menu always includes fortified wines, bittersweet cocktails and liqueurs, and small bites meant to stimulate appetites.

    The ritual is a natural fit for Philadelphia, the so-called “Frenchest city in America,” and its rise of Euro-American-inspired bars and restaurants. Operators are leaning into food-driven aperitivo hours to stretch out the day longer and cater to diners that are going home earlier and drinking less. Signature aperitivo drinks — classic negronis, savory vermouths, and bittersweet amaris — aren’t as heavy or fast-paced as half-priced beer and shot specials, and often come with sidecars of salty snacks, like cured meats, olives, and bread. Others, like an Aperol spritz or an Americano perfecto (a spaghett-style cocktail with beer, Vermouth, Campari, and an orange slice), tend to be lower in ABV.

    People are “drinking earlier, coming right from work, and getting a small spritz, a snack, and then going to dinner,” said Benjamin Kirk, the beverage director at Michelin-key Hotel Anna & Bel, which offers an aperitivo menu three days a week at its cocktail lounge, Caletta. “You don’t see people out as late as you normally would since the pandemic.”

    A cheeseburger and fries, the rigatoni all Amatriciana, and croquettes are all part of the aperitivo menu at Caletta in Fishtown.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Aperitivo is also more casual, less hurried, and lower pressure than a sit-down dinner or an after-work date. Reservations aren’t required, and it’s not uncommon to see friends popping in and out for a drink or kids joining family at the table.

    “It’s a lot easier to roll into aperitivo with a stroller and get a glass of wine with kids while you are catching up with friends rather than going to a bar,” said Chris DiPiazza of the South Philly bakery Mighty Bread, which started offering aperitivo hour in August 2024.

    Apéro is also “a marathon, not a sprint,” said Chloé Grigri, whose bars Superfolie, the Good King Tavern, Le Caveau, and Supérette all offer some version of late afternoon drink and food deals year-round. For Grigri, the purpose is less about pushing discounts so customers can drink more than it is about finding ways to intertwine French culture with happy hour. In Bella Vista, for example, the Good King Tavern is expanding daily apéro deals from 3 to 6 p.m. during the World Cup games (and beyond) to include discounted charcuterie, tartines, and “Frenchie-Americana” drink specials like Suze and Mountain Dew highballs and whiskey and Kronenburg citywides. “It’s the sort of thing you’d stumble across in Paris today in my opinion, but better,” she said.

    The Americano? Americano!, a vermouth cocktail that’s available only during aperitivo at Caletta.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Still, prices at aperitivo tend to hover at $8 to $16 — roughly between the cost of a beer or glass of wine — which can attract customers during slower weekday business hours, said Le Virtù general manager Chris O’Brien. In the restaurant on East Passyunk Avenue’s monthly wine club newsletter, O’Brien said that 2026 has been “our busiest year on record by a long shot” with an uptick in patio reservations, where its all-you-can-eat northern Italian aperitivo events take place.

    Similarly at Fishtown’s Caletta, Kirk said he’s seen a midweek bump with more guests requesting aperitivo hours even during offseason months. Grigri also noted the timing of the World Cup this summer has worked well for her businesses across the board. “Le Caveau had an immediate noticeable uptick,” in business, she said, alongside Good King Tavern and Supérette, where aperó has had a steadier and slower build. “It’s about getting people in right before our normal busy hours,” said Grigri.

    Here are eight places to sip, linger, and graze al fresco for aperitivo in Philly.

    Outdoor seating at Caletta, which offers an aperitivo menu from 4 to 7 p.m. Wednesdays through Fridays.Tyger Williams / Staff Photographer

    Where to find aperitivo in Philly

    Caletta

    Caletta’s patio aperitivo (Wednesday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m.) transports you from a quiet Fishtown block to the Mediterranean coastline. At this hotel bar, the cocktails include split-based, lower ABV drinks that use house-made liqueur blends and fortified wines, like the “Americano? Americano!,” which includes a mix of coffee liqueur, sweet vermouth, red bitters, orange, and olive. A bonus: Your first drink comes with a complimentary salty snack dish of mixed nuts, roasted peppers, or salami with house-made focaccia.

    📍1401 E. Susquehanna Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. 19125, 📞267-682-8253 🌐 calettafishtown.com

    A selection of complimentary aperitivo snacks alongside two cocktails at Sorellina, 699 N. Broad St.Courtesy S

    Sorellina

    At owner Joe Cicala’s casual pizzeria in the Divine Lorraine, aperitivo is baked into the regular menu. Every table gets a few olives and tuna-stuffed peppers to snack on while deciding what to order for dinner. Italian-style bitter cocktails, imported beers, and amari anchor the bar program,​ though Cicala has noticed more customers ordering nonalcoholic bitter sodas — perhaps influenced by summer Euro trips, he noted.

    📍699 N. Broad St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19123 📞 267-324-3586 🌐 sorellinapizza.com

    Banshee

    Banshee’s dedicated aperitivo section features Spanish-style small plates of croquettas and patatas bravas, among others, plus drink specials from 5 to 6 p.m. daily. The Mediterranean-inspired bar in Graduate Hospital folds cocktails from Spain (Kalimotxo), France (Kir), and Italy (the not-discounted-but-still-excellent Spring Americano with strawberry vermouth and rhubarb aperitivo) into one concise menu. Our recommendation: Order everything, including a side of the house-made sourdough.

    📍1600 South St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19146 📞 267-876-8346 🌐 bansheephl.com

    A spread of stuzzichini (bite-size appetizers from Northern Italy) at one of Le Virtú’s summertime aperitivo events.Courtesy Le Virtú

    Le Virtù

    For a glimpse of more communal-style aperitivo, East Passyunk’s Le Virtù hosts one-off seasonal patio gatherings throughout the summer that draw from the culture of Abruzzo, Italy, where owner Francis Cratil-Cretarola is from. Programming — typically on a Wednesday, weekend afternoon, or early evening — is lightly curated with unlimited buffet-style stuzzichini (bite-sized northern Italian appetizers) for $35 and $14 wines by the glass in collaboration with a rotating mix of producers and importers. Follow @levirtuphila on Instagram for upcoming events.

    📍1927 Passyunk Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. 19148 📞 215-271-5626 🌐 levirtu.com

    BOTLD — Midtown

    This retail shop, tasting room, and cocktail bar adjacent to the Gayborhood lets you choose your aperitivo experience — order a drink and stay awhile or buy bottled-in-state products for at-home concoctions. Either way, you can’t go wrong with its “Slayborhood Spritz,” featuring Apologue persimmon liqueur, Kyro pink gin, prosecco, and club soda or a lemon herbaceous amaro with Fast Penny Spirits Americano Bianca.

    📍117 S. 13th St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19107 📞 445-776-7000 🌐 botld.com

    Light bites and negroni cocktails from Irwin’s aperitivo menu, which runs Wednesday through Friday from 5 to 7 p.m.Alli DelGrippo

    Irwin’s

    Nothing beats a rooftop hang — especially with classic Sicilian drinks and snacks. Irwin’s, just across the hall from Bok Bar, hosts aperitivo hour inside and out on the roof every Wednesday through Friday from 5 to 7 p.m. during the summer. Everything on the menu is $13 or less: Negroni cocktails, charcuterie and formaggi, anchovies, tomato pie, and eggplant caponata (a chef Michael Ferreri family recipe for an antipasto vegetable stew).

    📍800 Mifflin St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19148 📞 215-693-6206 🌐 irwinsupstairs.com

    Mighty Bread Company

    This James Beard Award-nominated South Philly bakery is home to a family-friendly aperitivo. On weekdays year-round (except Tuesdays) from 4 to 6 p.m. you can enjoy Philly-Italian bites, cocktails, beer, and wine inside or in the courtyard. Snacks highlight bread in various forms: “Mighty Munch” with baguette chips, candied nuts, and seasoned pretzel chips; focaccia; and scallop toast with fermented aji chili butter. There are easy-sippers with Pennsylvania-made spirits, too, like Char & Stave coffee Amaro and soda, a ready-to-drink sparkling wine spritz, and Mighty Bread’s own Italian semolina pilsner, Amici Del Pane.

    📍1211 Gerritt St., Philadelphia, Pa. 19147 📞 215-607-3205 🌐 mightybreadco.com

    A snack board at Supérette, a restaurant, bottle shop, and wine bar on East Passyunk Avenue.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer

    Supérette

    Supérette captures that quintessential French-style apéro energy: Customers drift in and out the door, shopping for natural wine in the bottle shop or sipping highballs at the bar. The day-to-night vibes at Chloe Grigri’s épicerie and wine bar on East Passyunk Avenue invite spontaneous meetups fueled by olives, mini-chip-filled jambon-and-beurre sandwiches, and Frenchie disco fries (aka nachos with shredded cheese, local spam, cornichon relish, and crème fraîche). Better yet: Apéro is every weekday year-round from 3 to 6 p.m.

    📍1538 Passyunk Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. 19147 🌐 superettephl.com

  • The best things we ate this week

    The best things we ate this week

    Hand-rolled ceppe at Le Virtú

    There’s something special about a thick, hand-rolled noodle. As part of its summer menu, Le Virtù’s ceppe — a chewy Abruzzese pasta shape that resembles a short and stout bucatini noodle — are made by hand and tossed in a bright squash blossom pesto. I later learned that ceppe gets its name from the wooden sticks or rods they mimic, a nice bit of pasta trivia I will stow away for quizzo. The hearty plate is topped with zucchini ragu, with a generous amount of the plant mixed throughout the dish, and mozzarella di bufala. It’s best enjoyed with a glass of wine on the restaurant’s beloved patio. Le Virtú, 1927 Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5626, levirtu.com

    — Emily Bloch

    Zhajiang Mian at Opera House, 112 N. Ninth St.Kiki Aranita / Staff

    Zhajiang Mian at Opera House

    It has taken me far too long to get to Opera House, which opened about a year ago in the former Rangoon space. Rangoon had been my favorite restaurant in Philly for years, and I was admittedly bitter about them no longer occupying that storefront on Ninth Street. Now, I’m very pleased to report that my bitterness has now been assuaged.

    Opera House is bright, beautiful, sparkling clean, a visual ode to Chinese opera that specializes in Northern Chinese food. They do have some Cantonese items on the menu (that are just fine), but the real star of the show is their $14.95 zhajiang mian. Saucy, with lean ground pork and lots of slow-cooked onions, these noodles are a true celebration of handmade textures. They’re intentionally a little wonky from being hand-stretched — some parts are thinner than others — so they sop up the super umami-rich fermented soy sauce in interesting ways. Served with sides of cucumber and carrot matchsticks and roasted peanuts, it’s likely the best version of the dish I’ve had in Chinatown, and such a beautiful play on varying textures and temperatures. Opera House, 112 N. Ninth St., 267-639-2376, operahousephilly.com

    — Kiki Aranita

    The Girl Dinner cocktail, a clarified gin martini with a sidecar of gummy worms, at Angeloni’s Club Madrid in Atlantic City, N.J.Margaret Eby / Staff

    Girl Dinner at Angeloni’s Club Madrid

    Atlantic City is a weird and magical place, particularly for those of us who tend to visit in 24-hour increments. I made such a journey last weekend, and the highlight was finally getting to try Angeloni’s Club Madrid, the retro-styled Italian spot that opened in 2024 from the owner’s of the beloved Tony’s Baltimore Grill. Angeloni’s was everything I hoped it would be — part cozy dining experience, part lounge party. Case in point: a DJ somehow seamlessly incorporated Norah Jones into a dance-y set.

    The menu included one of the best versions of cacio e pepe I’ve had in a long time. But the star of the show is the cocktail menu, which has interesting interpretations of classic cocktails, executed with both fidelity to the drink and total whimsy. My favorite was the Girl Dinner, a perfect dirty gin martini served with a blue-cheese stuffed olive and a sidecar of gummy worms. It shouldn’t work — blue cheese and gummy worms? — but it does. It has that kind of slightly off-kilter energy that a really fun party does, where things are always threatening to fly off the hinges but somehow stay just contained enough for a memorably good time. Angeloni’s Club Madrid, 2400 Arctic Ave., Atlantic City, N.J., clubmadridac.com

    — Margaret Eby

    Watermelon gazpacho at Cantina Feliz, Ambler.Michael Klein / Staff

    Watermelon gazpacho at Cantina Feliz

    I always look to July 4 as the unofficial start of watermelon season. This year, that feels especially fitting: Forecasters are calling for one of the hottest Independence Days Philadelphia has seen in nearly a quarter-century, making cold watermelon all the more appealing. That spirit comes through in this watermelon gazpacho from Cantina Feliz in Ambler, which leans savory rather than sweet. Cucumber amplifies the freshness, while finely diced red onion and chives add bite without overwhelming the fruit. A drizzle of verdant herb oil lends richness, and the accompanying shot of sherry gives it a nutty, tangy depth. It’s a refreshing summer starter that becomes more layered with every spoonful. Cantina Feliz, 111 E. Butler Ave., Ambler, 215-646-1320, cantinafeliz.com

    — Michael Klein