Tag: Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon

  • Philly isn’t applying to host the next James Beard Awards. Some insiders say that’s a mistake.

    Philly isn’t applying to host the next James Beard Awards. Some insiders say that’s a mistake.

    Philly may be among the James Beard Awards’ most valuable players, but it won’t be their next host.

    The Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau — the organization that brought the Michelin Guide to Philly last year — doesn’t plan to pursue a bid to host the James Beard Foundation’s annual awards ceremony, a spokesperson told reporters Monday.

    Considered to be the restaurant industry’s Oscars, the Beard Awards have celebrated the best in food service and media across the United States every spring since 1991.

    The ceremony moved from New York City to Chicago in 2015, where it has been held with increasing fanfare for the past 11 years. Now, the awards are searching for a new city to take up the mantle for a five-year term, from 2029 through 2033.

    “Recognition through the awards can be transformative — driving visibility, strengthening businesses, and creating new opportunities for recipients both immediately and over time,” the Beard Foundation said last week in a statement announcing a request for information from potential host cities. “These benefits extend to the host destination as well: The multiday event showcases the local culinary community while generating national media attention and meaningful economic impact.”

    Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon and her Kalaya partners accept the 2026 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant.© Eliesa Johnson / James Beard Foundation

    Hosting the awards also comes with significant price tag: The Beard Foundation is asking interested cities to commit to spending a minimum of $4 million for the first year, with annual increases of up to 5% after. Cities can source the money through a mix of cash investment, sponsorships, and public sector funds.

    Cities can send in preliminary information — including an estimate of hotel stock, prospective venues, and responses to short-answer questions — to the Beard Foundation through Aug. 7. Selected applicants will then be invited to submit official proposals. The next host will be announced in early 2027.

    Philly has likely ruled itself out.

    “Our mission is to attract citywide conventions, meetings, and major events that generate significant overnight visitation and hotel demand,” Convention & Visitors Bureau spokesperson Jaime Martorana wrote over email. “After reviewing the James Beard Awards’ event hosting requirements, we’ve determined they aren’t fully aligned with the PHLCVB’s mission and mandate.”

    People arrive at the 2024 James Beard Awards in Chicago. The Oscars of the restaurant industry is looking for a new city to host the awards from 2029 to 2033.Erin Hooley

    Philly’s untouched resumé

    It’s unclear which hosting requirements don’t match up with the Convention & Visitors Bureau’s mandate of bringing major events to Philly.

    Reviewed by The Inquirer, the seven-part application asks cities to detail the high-profile events it has hosted in the last three years, outline its transit options, and explain how their restaurant scene upholds values of “culinary excellence, sustainability, inclusion, [and] accessibility.”

    Philadelphia spent the past two months juggling nonstop major events, from six World Cup matches, the MLB All-Star Game, and, perhaps biggest of all, the nation’s 250th birthday. All the while, the city’s estimated 19,000 hotel rooms reached a record-high 90% occupancy as hundreds of thousands visited Philly. Even the delay-plagued, chronically-underfunded SEPTA rose to the occasion, with expanded service, free fare, and dance parties.

    Hanna Williams (left) and husband, Chad, at the 2025 Michelin Guide Northeast Cities awards at the Kimmel Center in Philadelphia. Their restaurant, Friday Saturday Sunday, is the only local restaurant to have a James Beard Award and a Michelin Star.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    Philly is also a James Beard Awards darling, fielding finalists nine out of the past 10 years. In June, chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon’s Thai restaurant, Kalaya, won outstanding restaurant, while Royal Sushi & Izakaya’s Jesse Ito was named Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic, a region that spans New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, and Washington.

    Visit Philadelphia, the city’s official tourism nonprofit, has worked with the James Beard Foundation since 2016, including hosting the 2020 nominee announcement and several dinner and marketing events in the years since.

    “It seems to me like we should at least be having a conversation about what the relative merits of hosting are, especially since the Beards have been very good to us,” said Jonathan Deutsch, the director of Drexel University’s Food Lab and a previous judge for the Beard Awards’ media and leadership categories.

    Deutsch and others in the local food scene say it’s a mistake for Philly not to try, forgoing at least a little bit of the momentum Philly has built as a destination for world-class dining and tourism. Freelance journalist and Inquirer contributor Adam Erace — who chaired the Beard Awards Mid-Atlantic subcommittee from 2010 to 2020 — highlighted that Philly’s status as a Northeast corridor city with a reliable airport makes it easy for nominees to commute.

    Mawn’s Phila Lorn (left) and Rachel Lorn at the 2025 James Beard Awards in Chicago. Lorn won emerging chef that year.Courtesy of Rachel Lorn

    Plus, he said, we’ve done this before, pointing out that the city hosted a Michelin Guide ceremony in November and routinely hosts the Chef Conference.

    “We’ve spent the past 10 years pushing as a city to grow. If anybody’s ready, we’re ready,” said chef Chad Williams, whose Rittenhouse Square restaurant Friday Saturday Sunday won the James Beard award for Outstanding Restaurant in 2023 and was a finalist for Outstanding Bar in June.

    What could Philly miss out on?

    In a few words: millions of dollars in economic impact.

    The 2026 James Beard Awards in Chicago generated $8.3 million in direct spending from the operational costs associated with putting on the ceremony, plus offsite spending by attendees, according to a report the foundation commissioned from the Oxford Economics Co. That direct spending turned into $17 million in overall economic impact on the greater Chicago area, including $1.2 million in local and state tax revenue.

    Philadelphia chefs are acknowledged at the Michelin Guide announcements at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025, in Philadelphia.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    Erace and Deutsch, who both have attended the Beard Awards, describe it as a weekend of dinners, pre-parties, after-parties, and pop-ups that encourage attendees to eat and drink in the host city. This year’s awards included roughly 41 events in the days leading up to the ceremony, Illinois Restaurant Association president Sam Toia told the Chicago Sun-Times.

    The restaurant awards’ voting body — composed of anonymous judges with industry experience selected via committee — is only allowed to vote for restaurants they’ve eaten at in the past year, explained Erace. This gives Chicago a small leg up. Hosting the awards enables more judges to eat in the city and speak to its restaurants’ quality.

    “It seems like a missed opportunity,” said Deutsch. “You have top chefs, journalists, cookbook authors, passionate foodies … who are paying a couple of thousand dollars over the weekend for airfare, dining, and a hotel just to experience the awards.”

    What about the Michelin Guide?

    Last year, the Convention and Visitor’s Bureau successfully bid to bring the Michelin Northeast Cities Guide — and its award ceremony — to Philly for the first time.

    Provenance, Her Place Supper Club, and Friday Saturday Sunday each earned their first star from the coveted gastronomic guide, with 31 other Philly restaurants falling among the guide’s Bib Gourmand and Recommended tiers. Most of them reported at least a modest increase in business right after.

    “Now that the busiest period of our 2026 event calendar has concluded, we’ll be reconnecting with the restaurants and chefs recognized in the Guide to better understand how the first half of the year performed and how Michelin recognition has supported their businesses,” Martorana said.

    The Michelin Man, whose name is Bibendum, arrives at the Michelin Guide announcements at the Kimmel Center, on Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025, in Philadelphia.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    It’s still unclear how much it cost to court the guide, or how much it boosted Philadelphia overall. The Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau declined to share how much it paid Michelin and has yet to make data available about the spending generated by Michelin’s newfound Philadelphia presence.

    Cities pay to be included in the Michelin Guide, often cobbling together funding from a mix of tourism organizations, public investment, and sponsorships. The price of admission is steep: Boston and Atlanta both paid upward of $1 million to bring the Michelin Guide to their cities, while Texas raised $2.7 million from Dallas, Austin, San Antonio, Fort Worth, and Houston to get a dedicated Texas guide. Some locals, like Virginia and Buffalo, rebuffed Michelin entirely, calling the fees unsustainable.

    In Philly, the Michelin Guide and the James Beard Awards can appear to be an echo chamber, with the same set of restaurants receiving praise from both. Williams — whose restaurant Friday Saturday Sunday is the city’s only restaurant to receive a Michelin Star and a Beard Award — said each accolade generated “equal” bumps in reservations.

    From left: Joe Beddia, Greg Root, Nick Kennedy (rear), Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, and Roland Kassis, with the Michelin Man at the Michelin Guide announcement event at the Kimmel Center Tuesday, Nov. 18, 2025, in Philadelphia.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    The sameness begs the question: Does Philly need both?

    Deutsch wondered if the city’s decision to not go for the Beard Awards has to do with “fine-dining fatigue,” or if the powers that be feel like “they spent a lot of money to check that box for the next few years,” he said.

    The Michelin Guide is technically the better bet — at least numbers-wise, Erace acknowledged.

    “Thirty-something restaurants get some kind of recognition, and they can take that to the bank forever,” he said. “With the Beards, there’s only so many winners every year.”

  • Philly takes home two wins at the 2026 James Beard Awards

    Philly takes home two wins at the 2026 James Beard Awards

    Philadelphia can now add two more food awards to its shelf.

    Restaurants and chefs from the City of Brotherly Love took home wins in two categories Monday night in Chicago at the 2026 James Beard Awards, considered to be the most prestigious restaurant industry honor in the United States.

    The showing builds on the momentum of last year, when Mawn’s Phila Lorn took home the title of Emerging Chef, an award he dedicated at the time to “the assumption” that the Cambodian noodle house in Bella Vista wasn’t “popular enough,” “focused enough,” or ”good enough” to win.

    Now the assumption isn’t that Philly is an underdog. It’s that we’re a full-on culinary powerhouse.

    Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon’s Thai restaurant Kalaya won outstanding restaurant, an award that recognizes “consistent excellence” in food, hospitality, and operations.

    Suntaranon originally opened the restaurant — known for its ornate dumplings — in 2019 in what is currently Mawn’s location, where it was nominated in 2020 for Best New Restaurant. In 2022, Kalaya moved to a bigger space just off Frankford Avenue in Kensington, where it has flourished, earning a Michelin Guide recommendation, a spot on The Inquirer’s The 76, and, in 2023, Suntaranon’s first Beard Award for best chef, Mid-Atlantic.

    Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon as seen through the line at her restaurant Kalaya in Fishtown on August 22, 2024.Neal Santos

    “This award means a lot to me because it’s validation for Thai food and validation for the city of Philadelphia that we’re a world-class food city,” Suntaranon, in a shimmering floor-length orange gown, said backstage.

    Chef Jesse Ito of Royal Sushi & Izakaya on Monday night took home his first James Beard Award, for best chef, Mid-Atlantic. “It’s been a long ride,” Ito said from the stage at the Lyric Opera theater.

    Indeed it has.

    The chef behind the notoriously-hard-to-get-into Queen Village omakase counter and its more casual bar and restaurant has been nominated nine times for the award, which honors the top culinary talent across Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, and Washington. This go-around, Ito beat out two-time finalist Amanda Shulman — whose Her Place Supper Club earned one of Philly’s first Michelin stars last year — and Omar Tate and Cybille St.Aude-Tate of Honeysuckle, who transformed their cafe-market into a Michelin-recommended prix fixe restaurant in 2025.

    During his acceptance speech, Ito invoked the oft-quoted Serenity Prayer and thanked his parents, who ran the Cinnaminson and Haddonfield sushi restaurant Fuji for 40 years, before selling. It’s where Ito worked his first restaurant job as a dishwasher, and a place he has long credited for helping him find his footing in the restaurant industry.

    Chef Jesse Ito prepares a course during the omakase at Royal Sushi and Izakaya on Tuesday, Oct. 28, 2025, in Philadelphia.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    “We went through so much,” Ito said, choking up. “Restaurants are glamorous, and it seems great, but we went through so much hardship. I’ll never forget the struggle just to get here.”

    Royal Sushi’s success has also, at times, been its greatest challenge: The $355, 16-seat omakase prepared by Ito is one of the toughest seats to score in Philly, which potentially led to the restaurant losing out on a Michelin star last year. At the same time, the restaurant earned a spot on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2025 and high praise from The Inquirer, landing on The 76 two years in a row.

    The pendulum swing of accolades keeps Ito on his toes. He told The Inquirer over the phone Monday night that he wasn’t certain what made this year different from all the others.

    “I don’t know how it all works,” Ito said. “I came to Chicago 99% certain that I was going to lose.”

    Now that he’s won, Ito plans to celebrate by singing Harry Styles’ “Sign of the Times” and “Creep” by Radiohead at karaoke — somber choices for a victorious night.

    “They’re just my songs,” said Ito. “I have to sing them.”

    Who else represented Philly?

    Philly restaurants and chefs didn’t take home medals in every category.

    Emmett, the Levantine-inspired Kensington restaurant from chef Evan Snyder, was nominated for best new restaurant. The award ultimately went to Lei, a New York City wine bar that serves Chinese food. Named after Snyder’s first-born, Emmett had a quick rise after its January 2025 opening: In the past year, it made its first appearance on The 76 and was named one of the best new restaurants in the U.S. by Esquire magazine.

    From left: The gaeng pae, khao mun klone, and moo yaang prik at Kalaya on Wednesday, Sept. 3, 2025, in Philadelphia.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    First-time nominee Justine MacNeil did not take home the award for outstanding pastry chef or baker, which went to Susan Bay of Washington’s buzzy Vietnamese restaurant Moon Rabbit. At Fiore — the East Kensington cafe MacNeil co-owns with husband Ed Crochet — the former fine dining pastry chef churns out thousands of classic Italian pastries a week, from oversize maritozzi to pistachio cornetti that have earned praise from 2017 James Beard Award-winner Greg Vernick and Inquirer critic Craig LaBan, among others.

    Friday Saturday Sunday lost out on its second Beard Award on Monday, this time for outstanding bar. Its downstairs, first-come-first-served Lovers Bar was nominated for the honor, which instead went to Portland, Ore., whisky bar Scotch Lounge, a recent addition to the list of North America’s 50 Best Bars from World’s 50 Best. Friday Saturday Sunday won its first Beard award in 2023 for outstanding restaurant, and earned one of Philly’s first Michelin stars in 2025.

    The deluxe nigiri box for take-out at Royal Izakaya, in a photograph from 2020.Courtesy Royal Izakaya / Jesse Ito

    The Inquirer also took home hardware of its own Sunday night during the James Beard Media Awards, also in Chicago. Inquirer staff photographer Monica Herndon won for narrative photography for “The hunt for life-giving ‘country food’ in the Canadian Arctic.” The photo essay chronicled the food traditions of the Inukjuak, a remote Inuit community in northern Québec. It accompanied reporting from Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan about how the community continues to hunt and preserve foods such as caribou and beluga despite the challenges of climate change.

    Philadelphia had 13 semifinalists across eight categories when the Beard Awards were announced in January. They included chef Greg Vernick for outstanding restaurateur; Amá’s Frankie Ramirez for emerging chef; Almanac in Old City for best new bar; and deli magnate Russ Cowan and Michelin Green Star winner Ian Graye of the vegan restaurant Pietramala, both for best chef, Mid-Atlantic.

    All three were later eliminated from the finalists’ list.

    CHICAGO, ILLINOIS – JUNE 13: Monica Herndon, winner of the Narrative Photography Award, speaks onstage during the 2026 James Beard Media Awards at the Art Institute of Chicago on June 13, 2026, in Chicago.Jeff Schear / Getty Images for the James Beard Foundation

    The night’s showing adds one more win from February when Center City stalwart Oyster House was named an American classic, which honors local restaurants across the U.S. with “timeless appeal that serve quality food and are beloved by their communities.” Representatives from the Philly mainstay were in Chicago to receive their medals in person.

    “I am very fortunate that I live in Philly. People are loving and caring [here]. People are strong, and we all come together to support one another,” Suntaranon said. “Go Birds!”

  • Philly aims for glory at the 2026 James Beard Awards

    Philly aims for glory at the 2026 James Beard Awards

    Before Philadelphia’s chefs, bakers, restaurateurs, and bartenders take center stage at tonight’s James Beard Awards in Chicago, one Philadelphian has already brought home a medal.

    On Saturday night, Inquirer staff photographer Monica Herndon won the 2026 James Beard Media Award for Narrative Photography for “The hunt for life-giving ‘country food’ in the Canadian Arctic,” a photo essay documenting Inuit food traditions in the remote northern Québec community of Inukjuak.

    The Inquirer’s Monica Herndon, winner of the Narrative Photography Award, speaks during the 2026 James Beard Media Awards on June 13.Jeff Schear / Getty Images for the James Beard Foundation

    The project accompanied reporting by Inquirer restaurant critic Craig LaBan and chronicled how residents hunt, prepare, share, and preserve traditional foods, including seal, beluga, and caribou. In October 2024, Herndon and LaBan followed filmmaker Kirk French of Penn State to the region as he screened a documentary.

    “There was this moment, at the end of the trip when I was leaving, when one of the elders pulled me aside and whispered, ‘You know you’re very lucky to be here,’” Herndon recalled in a chat Monday before she photographed tacos for a food article. “It sent chills down my spine.”

    A father and daughter walk near the Innuksuak River in Inukjuak, Quebec.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    A native of Annapolis, Md., Herndon has worked at The Inquirer for nearly seven years. She won a 2022 Mid-Atlantic Emmy Award and Best in Show recognition from the National Press Photographers Association’s Northern Short Course contest for her work on The Inquirer’s “Wildest Dreams” project, a mini-anthology of storytelling about Black cultural inheritance, legacy, and joy.

    She previously accompanied LaBan to Japan to photograph chefs Jesse and Matt Ito’s homecoming and to Thailand for a feature tracing the roots of chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon.

    Now the attention turns to the restaurant and chef awards, which will be presented tonight at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.

    Philadelphia enters the ceremony with seven finalists, one of the strongest showings of any city in the country. Kalaya is nominated for Outstanding Restaurant, while Emmett is a finalist for Best New Restaurant. The Lovers Bar at Friday Saturday Sunday is in the running for Outstanding Bar.

    In individual categories, Justine MacNeil of Fiore is a finalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef or Baker. The hotly contested Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic category includes three Philadelphia contenders: Jesse Ito of Royal Sushi & Izakaya, Amanda Shulman of Her Place Supper Club, and Omar Tate and Cybille St.Aude-Tate of Honeysuckle.

    Philadelphia already has one James Beard honor secured this year.

    In February, Center City’s Oyster House received a James Beard America’s Classics Award, recognizing restaurants with timeless appeal and deep roots in their communities.