Category: Michael Klein

  • This pizzeria has Craig LaBan’s stamp of approval | Let’s Eat

    This pizzeria has Craig LaBan’s stamp of approval | Let’s Eat

    Craig LaBan has found a pizzeria he can take his whole family to.

    Also in this edition:

    — Mike Klein

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    This pizzeria has Craig LaBan’s stamp of approval

    Gluten-free pizzas are generally less than exciting, as Craig LaBan notes, with textures ranging between pressboard and Styrofoam. At Barclay Pies, it’s not like that at all. Even the mozz sticks and their conventional pizzas are well worth a stop.

    The bakery beat

    Wild Yeast Bakehouse, Wayne’s new sourdough bakery, has a living room vibe, writes Jenn Ladd. That makes sense, because the founder started baking out of his living room.

    Saif Manna started baking during the pandemic in his Temple dorm room. He’s opening a brick-and-mortar home for his Levantine and Palestinian pastries, and tomorrow is the first day.

    Ba Le Bakery in South Philly is practically synonymous with the city’s bánh mì scene. Now, writes Kiki Aranita, a third generation is expanding the business dramatically.

    Two Sweet Boutique has had an interesting problem in its new location in Washington Township, writes Sarah Nicell. It’s selling out. Want that banana pudding? Get there early.

    Memories: The Frog Commissary Cookbook

    After four decades, The Frog Commissary Cookbook remains a Philadelphia icon — “our book,” says one acolyte. Contributor Devra Ferst takes a stroll down memory lane and winds up at the Commissary’s original location, where the current restaurant occupant bakes its carrot cake.

    Omakase on a budget at Oroshi

    Oroshi, a new omakase restaurant at Broad and Lombard Streets, is part of a minitrend of faster, less expensive omakase experiences. The lights are bright and the decor is spare, but Kiki Aranita walked away happy after 90 minutes.

    Getting with the GLP-1 program

    Here’s a twist: Local food brands such as Philly Pretzel Factory are working to accommodate consumers who are eating less and “protein-maxxing,” Olivia Prusky writes.

    The best thing Craig ate last week

    Craig visited an old fave — Porcini in Rittenhouse — and found the pastas have not lost a beat even after three decades. And yes, it’s still a BYOB.

    Scoops

    Chef Nic Macri and restaurant-ops specialist Suzanne O’Brien are proving you’re never too old experienced to open your first restaurant. They’re partnering with Stephen Simons on a spot just off 13th and Sansom in Washington Square West, and Macri describes the menu as “Philadelphia cooking with an Italian accent.”

    Anh Em, a Vietnamese bar-restaurant and bar from husband-and-wife team Victor Nguyen and Anna Huynh, is aiming for an Aug. 8 grand opening at 1252 S. 21st St. in Point Breeze, the former Madira. Nguyen, a longtime Philadelphia hospitality veteran who bartended at Mad Mex in the late 1990s, co-owned a Chinatown bubble tea shop in the early 2000s and later spent 15 years managing Tango, is realizing a longtime goal of opening his own place. The roughly 45-seater will pair Vietnamese comfort food (pho and bánh xèo alongside home-style dishes) with a 20-seat bar pouring 24 local drafts and a small cocktail list.

    Andorra Kitchen & Tap will join Andorra Shopping Center’s $32 million glow-up by Federal Realty, possibly in the fourth quarter. Spanning 6,900 square feet in the former Applebee’s, the restaurant is positioning as an all-day neighborhood gathering place serving breakfast/brunch, lunch, and dinner, with a full bar and dedicated coffee area for the morning. Owner Emmanouil Lagoudakis says he was drawn to Andorra-Roxborough for its “wonderful energy.”

    Restaurant report

    333 Belrose, one of the Main Line’s old-guard restaurants, has reopened after a dramatic renovation that flipped the bar with a dining room, opening up the layout. The menu is still “nothing too cerebral, nothing too crazy,” as chef Ross Essner told me, adding that there’s one dish he will never take off the menu.

    Toll Man Joe’s, whose South Philly run was abbreviated by the pandemic, will resurface at the former Mixto on Pine Street near 12th. The owners hope to get the sports bar open in just a few weeks.

    Pomelo Rooftop Terrace, atop the new Brandywine hotel in Radnor and counterpoint to Merrick’s Tavern off the lobby, will grand-open Aug. 8. It’ll be open year-round with indoor-outdoor seating. Weekend brunch begins Aug. 22.

    The region’s last Brio Italian Grille, in Cherry Hill’s Towne Place at Garden State Park, closed abruptly Monday, two months after its Marlton location shuttered. The site 42Freeway joined the Facebook account A View From Evesham in first reporting that steakhouse Fogo de Chao will occupy the Cherry Hill location, citing township permits. A rep from Fogo declined my request for comment.

    Briefly noted

    Flash back to 2023, when chef Dionicio Jiménez and Mariangeli Alicea Saez of Cantina la Martina, La Baja, and the Cantina on the Go locations went to Mexico with Inquirer critic Craig LaBan and photographer Jessica Griffin for articles that won a James Beard Award in 2024. The restaurateurs are using part of that trip as inspiration for a five-day excursion to Oaxaca they’re planning for Oct. 30–Nov. 4. (LaBan and Griffin, who also met with Tequilas’ David Suro for a lesson in mezcal and tequila production during that 2023 trip, will sit this one out.) Limited to eight guests, the experience will feature family celebrations, cultural traditions, home-cooked meals, a private mezcal tasting, artisan visits, and special dinners, including one from Jiménez himself. It’s $2,000pp plus airfare. Details via cantina@cantinaonthego.com.

    Nine Philadelphia bartenders will throw down Patrón Tequila-based cocktails in the Dirty Rocks Cocktail Competition from 3-7:30 p.m. Sunday at Fringe Bar (140 N. Columbus Blvd.). Attendees will determine the winner among Matt Welch (R&D), Kari Rosenfeld (Bourbon & Branch), Kevin Castro (Soufiane at the Morris), Roland Bui (Com.Unity Consulting), Damian Langarcia (Drams by Damian), Chris Harrop (Known Associates), Tony Jimenez (Static), Jackie Miller (Fringe Bar), and defending champion Jessica Stark (Trestle Inn). Also: a DJ, pizza truck, food and drink specials. Admission ($20) includes three tasting votes; VIP tickets are $45 and include a welcome cocktail, gift bag, and 10 votes. Cocktails: $5-$12. Tickets via DirtyRocks.com.

    2nd Street Festival returns to Northern Liberties from noon-10 p.m. Sunday, transforming the stretch from Spring Garden to Girard Avenue into a festival with more than more than 50 restaurants and food trucks, 10 beer and cocktail gardens, two live music stages, and family activities.

    ❓Pop quiz

    Name the brand that Wawa has partnered with on a hot-selling tote bag.

    A) Vera Bradley

    B) Coach

    C) Lands’ End

    D) Louis Vuitton

    Find out if you know the answer.

    Ask Mike anything

    Any news on New York Bagels? — John C.

    Owner Rayyan Kayyali sounded discouraged but not defeated when we caught up yesterday, more than two months after a gas explosion destroyed his Overbrook Park bagel bakery on the very morning of its reopening following another blast in March. He said he is waiting for a new burner pipe for the oven, and “so far, I haven’t seen a dime” from the insurance company. Meanwhile, lords Jeffrey Gladstone and Andy Rubin of Herbert Yentis & Co. say they have not charged him rent since the first explosion. Kayyali vows to rebuild and reopen.

    📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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  • Sports bar Toll Man Joe’s will replace Mixto in Washington Square West

    Sports bar Toll Man Joe’s will replace Mixto in Washington Square West

    Toll Man Joe’s is coming back to Philadelphia, nearly five years after the South Philadelphia sports bar closed during the pandemic.

    Founder Lori Penrose has purchased the former Mixto at 1141 Pine St. in Washington Square West, which closed July 12 after a nearly 24-year run. She said she plans to open as Toll Man Joe’s in three or four weeks, timed to the start of football season.

    New owner Lori Penrose of Toll Man Joe’s inside the former Mixto, 1141 Pine St.Lori Penrose

    The two-story property, last listed at $2.1 million, spans a pair of circa-1860 rowhouses and is up the block from Chibanos, the new Chinese-Cuban sandwich shop that replaced Effie’s, and across the street from Kiddo.

    Mixto’s owners, Jose Mosquera and his family, continue to operate the Latin restaurant Tierra Colombiana in Feltonville, which made The Inquirer’s 2024 list of 76 essential restaurants.

    The new Toll Man Joe’s will operate as a full-service restaurant and bar serving its signature wings alongside lunch and dinner menus blending comfort food with global influences. Breakfast and brunch also are planned, along with cocktails, local beers, and wine.

    For Penrose, the opening caps a comeback that began in 2023 with a small food operation inside a coffee shop in Woolwich Township, Gloucester County.

    The bar at Mixto, 1141 Pine St.Lori Penrose

    Toll Man Joe’s has since grown into a neighborhood BYOB with dine-in service in nearby Woolwich Center. Penrose said it will remain open after the Philadelphia restaurant debuts.

    She said she had long promised her daughter, Shannon, and executive chef Arturo Bermudez Luna that she would return to Philadelphia if the right opportunity arose. Bermudez Luna was the original chef at the South Philadelphia restaurant and remained involved after its closure, helping develop menus and train staff.

    The original Toll Man Joe’s, at 26 E. Oregon Ave., was named for Penrose’s uncle, Joseph “Toll Man Joe” Paul, a longtime Pennsylvania Turnpike employee at the Norristown Interchange who won WIP’s Wing Bowl VIII in 2000 by eating 90 wings — the record for the fewest wings consumed by a Wing Bowl champion. Paul died in 2012.

    The opportunity arose after Shannon Penrose, who lives in Washington Square West, spotted the Mixto property on the market. Lori Penrose said she initially hoped to lease the building but instead decided to buy it. Billy Creagh of National Realty Old City handled the sale.

    Shannon Penrose will serve as general manager and director of brand and operations, while Bermudez Luna will return as chef.

    The restaurant plans to open daily, initially serving lunch, happy hour, and dinner before adding weekend brunch. Weekday breakfast and grab-and-go offerings also are planned, using the existing espresso bar to serve nearby hospital workers and commuters.

    While Toll Man Joe’s remains best known for its wings, menu favorites including the cheesesteak, Nashville hot chicken sandwich, short rib grilled cheese, grilled chicken Caesar wrap, and arugula pear salad, also will return. Bermudez Luna, who is from Costa Rica, plans to expand the dinner menu with steaks, seafood, healthier lunch options, and Latin-inspired dishes acknowledging Mixto’s legacy.

    Penrose said the goal is to create a neighborhood restaurant rather than a late-night destination, with plans to close around midnight.

  • 333 Belrose is back with a new look and the same popular nachos

    333 Belrose is back with a new look and the same popular nachos

    Radnor’s 333 Belrose shut down in June 2025 for what was billed as a six- or seven-month renovation.

    But when the January target came and went, chef Ross Essner said, regulars would show up at the door to ask the same two questions: “First, they wanted to know when we would reopen and then, ‘Will the nachos return?’”

    The answers: late June, and yes.

    The Main Line mainstay, which opened off King of Prussia Road in the St. Davids section in 1999, reopened in late June after an extensive renovation that rearranged its dining rooms and enlarged the bar.

    Capano Management, which acquired the property in December 2022, initially expected the work to take only a few months. But early in the project, Essner said, designer Barbara Gisel of Haverford proposed flipping the layout, turning the dining room into a larger, dark-toned bar with 13 seats, a backlit wall of spirits, and a poster of Keith Richards, while converting the old bar into a bright dining room. “It ended up opening the whole space,” Essner said. “Now the bar is the focal point when you walk in.”

    That dining room, boasting a vaulted, paneled ceiling, white millwork, and divided-light windows, and a checkerboard wood floor, has the feel of an updated country house. Woven chairs, pale tabletops, sculptural floral chandeliers, and contemporary artwork modernize the historic shell without hiding its character. The patio spills out from the bar through full-length doors.

    Customers dine at the bar inside 333 Belrose in St. Davids on Thursday, July 23, 2026.Allie Ippolito / For The Inquirer

    The 3,870-square-foot building was once used as a stable where lore holds that George Washington once watered his horse.

    Essner, also Capano’s director of hospitality, described the menu as American food with occasional international influences. “Our goal isn’t Michelin stars or accolades,” he said. “The food is approachable. Nothing too cerebral, nothing too crazy. We want to be good enough for the neighborhood every day, but also nice enough that you can come here to celebrate something.”

    Entrées ($29 to $46) include goat-cheese gnocchi with short rib and horseradish cream, steak frites, black cod with mashed potatoes, a cowboy pork chop, and a long-bone short rib. Desserts include crème brûlée, peanut-butter mousse with chocolate ganache, and a warm skillet cookie with coffee-toffee ice cream.

    Shellfish cobb salad at 333 Belrose.Allie Ippolito / For The Inquirer

    And yes, the nachos are back. Layered with black beans, house-made lime and chipotle cremas, pickled jalapeños, cheddar, Colby Jack, guacamole, pico de gallo, tomatillo salsa, a Cooper Sharp sauce infused with peppers, and cotija, they remain one of the restaurant’s signatures. They were landing on table after table during a recent dinner service. “We would never take this off,” Essner said.

    The company, which also owns such Delaware restaurants as Columbus Inn and Charcoal Pit, views Belrose as a long-term investment rather than a project expected to produce an immediate return, Essner said. “The goal is to be here for the next 20 years.”

    333 Belrose, 333 Belrose Lane, St. Davids. Hours: 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday.

    A previous edition of this article misstated chef Ross Essner’s title.

  • Saif Manna’s dorm-room cookie company rises into a bakery-cafe in Kensington

    Saif Manna’s dorm-room cookie company rises into a bakery-cafe in Kensington

    Before it became one of Philadelphia’s busiest bakery pop-ups, Manna Bakery operated out of a Temple University dorm room.

    Now, after five years of overnight baking sessions, sold-out farmers markets, and long lines for Levantine and Palestinian pastries, chef-owner Saif Manna is opening his first brick-and-mortar bakery in Kensington — a mile and a half from campus.

    Manna Bakery opens Thursday at 110 W. Berks St., the former Essen Bakery. This caps a whirlwind year for Manna, 27, who married his college girlfriend, Stefaniya Surikova, earlier this year. They’re expecting their first child.

    Manna’s rise has the familiar outline of a pandemic success story, although the traditions reach back generations. He said his grandfather’s family lived in Yafa (also known as Jaffa) but left in 1948 after their house was bombed during the Nakba, the mass displacement of Palestinians in the Arab-Israeli war, when hundreds of thousands fled or were expelled from areas that became part of Israel.

    His grandfather headed first to Cyprus and then to Lebanon, studied medicine in England, and made his way to Kuwait to practice.

    Manna was born in California and raised in Dubai before moving to the United States to attend Texas A&M University on a Division I tennis scholarship. After transferring to Temple, he began baking cookies during the pandemic while living in a dorm. Encouraged by Surikova — also on Temple’s tennis team — in 2021, he started selling them online before expanding into pop-ups and the Rittenhouse, Headhouse and Clark Park farmers markets.

    As demand grew, Manna baked overnight at nearby Char Pizza before outgrowing the space.

    Since Manna never lived in the Levant, he describes his business as a third-culture bakery. He said his shop’s logo, a dandelion flower, is a nod to a belief popular in China that equates Palestinians with dandelion seeds that can thrive anywhere they land.

    Manna has followed a path blazed by the recent crop of independent bakeries such as Kouklet, Second Daughter, Machine Shop, Copihue, and Majdal, growing from home kitchens, pop-ups, and farmers markets into storefronts. Manna said he would keep his farmers market stops.

    Stefaniya Surikova serves customers at Manna Bakery.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    His new bakery’s roomy kitchen includes a window where customers can watch the bakers. Manna is still awaiting his chairs and tables for the 60-seat cafe.

    Weekday fare will feature many of Manna’s signatures, including manakeesh, chicken sumac buns, fatayer, cardamom buns, Basque cheesecake, seasonal cakes, and his pistachio chocolate chunk and extra-brown butter chocolate chunk cookies. Weekends will bring an even broader selection.

    The coffee program, featuring beans from Seekers Coffee in Princeton, includes drinks flavored with rose, cardamom, tahini, dates and saffron, along with Manna’s grandmother’s orange blossom lemonade.

    Jerusalem bagels (ka’ak al-quds) hang on hooks behind the counter at Manna Bakery.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    The shop has been redesigned with warm stone finishes, a small souk stocked with Levantine spices and pantry goods, and a rear room intended for future baking workshops, classes and private events.

    For a soft opening last week, Manna and Surikova recreated their farmers market display, laying pastries across sheets of craft paper.

    Among them were savory offerings such as the open-faced herby cheese fatayer and the banadoura manakish — a tomato-topped Levantine flatbread. Ka’ak al-Quds, the oblong, sesame-seeded Jerusalem bagels, hung from hooks behind the counter.

    A smaller version of those bagels will eventually become Manna’s egg, cheese and za’atar breakfast sandwich. “That’s something I grew up eating,” Manna said. “My mom used to make me that before school.”

    Dillon Assfalg, a line cook at Char who watched Manna’s overnight baking sessions firsthand, said the quality of his pastries stood out from the beginning. He describes himself as a cheesecake fan and ranks Manna’s lemon-and-orange-blossom Basque cheesecake among his favorites.

    Saif Manna working on a pavlova for a customer at Manna Bakery.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    “Whenever he’d leave fillings at Char after his middle-of-the-night baking sessions, I’d eat them all the time,” Assfalg said. “They were always super good.”

    Manna isn’t rushing to turn it into a full-service café. He hopes to add options such as slow-roasted lamb sandwiches for brunch, followed by baking workshops, cooking classes and supper clubs before introducing several nights of dinner featuring the Palestinian dishes he grew up with. But those plans can wait until the bakery is firmly established.

    “Long term, I definitely have aspirations. I love cooking as much as baking, so I think people will see more of that from me,” Manna said. “Would I like to have a restaurant one day? Absolutely. But right now my focus is making this bakery the best it can be and continuing to deliver the quality people expect. We’ll go from there.”

    Manna Bakery, 110 W. Berks St. Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday to Sunday.

    Manna Bakery is about a half-block from the Berks Station of the Market-Frankford Line.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    Manna’s tip for home bread bakers

    Saif Manna shared one of his favorite tips for home bread bakers: use an autolyse. The technique calls for mixing only the flour and water for about a minute, then letting the shaggy dough rest for an hour or two before adding the remaining ingredients.

    “When you come back, it’ll almost look like someone kneaded it for you,” he said. “It’s like magic. During that rest, the flour hydrates and the gluten begins to develop naturally.”

    Only then does he add the salt, yeast, sugar and, if needed, oil before kneading. “You’ll end up with a much smoother, more beautiful dough, and you’ll never want to skip that step again,” he said.

    The method also reduces mixing time. “People ask, ‘Why do you do it if you have these beautiful mixers?’” Manna said. “If you mix dough too long in a machine, you can overwork it. Bakers sometimes call it ‘bleaching’ the dough. We let it rest through the autolyse, then add the rest of the ingredients and finish the mixing in the machine. Because the gluten has already started developing, we can reduce the machine mixing time and preserve more of the flavor.”

  • After years working behind the scenes, Royal Tavern chef Nic Macri is opening his own Center City restaurant

    After years working behind the scenes, Royal Tavern chef Nic Macri is opening his own Center City restaurant

    After decades of opening and running restaurants for other people, chef Nic Macri and operations executive Suzanne O’Brien are becoming owners themselves.

    The Royal Restaurant Group colleagues are joining cofounder Stephen Simons as partners in a still-unnamed Italian-inspired tavern planned for the former 1225 Raw space at 1225 Sansom St. in Washington Square West. It’s just steps off the 13th Street bar-restaurant cluster that includes El Vez, Prunella, Pearl & Mary, Double Knot, Vintage, Time, Barbuzzo, Darling Jack’s, and Little Gay Pub.

    The restaurant space at 1225 Sansom St. was last 1225 Raw and Sushi by Bou.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    The project remains in the design stage, with demolition expected to begin shortly. Simons said a late April 2027 opening would be the best-case scenario, though it could take about a year.

    For Macri, 41, the restaurant will be the big leap in a career that has taken him from his native Ontario to some of Philadelphia’s best-known kitchens and butcher shops. O’Brien, 58, has spent more than three decades opening and operating restaurants, including Dock Street Brewery, Cantina Los Caballitos, Royal Boucherie, and dancerobot, but has never before held an ownership stake.

    Macri, the son of Calabrian immigrants who settled in the Toronto suburbs, came to Philadelphia on a Drexel University soccer scholarship. After cooking at Osteria and Southwark, he founded La Divisa Meats, the acclaimed Reading Terminal Market butcher shop that established him as one of the city’s premier charcutiers. He joined Royal Tavern as executive chef at its 2023 reopening from the pandemic shutdown.

    The new restaurant will draw partly on Macri’s Sunday Sauce dinners at Royal, though he described the idea more broadly as “Philadelphia cooking with an Italian accent.”

    “It won’t be rooted in one particular style or region,” he said. “It’s more about the Italian diaspora than one specific place.”

    The menu will include fresh and dried pastas, house-made bread and salumi, preserved vegetables, and shareable large plates. Vegan dishes will be built around vegetables rather than meat substitutes.

    One likely signature is a house-made mortadella sandwich on ciabatta, which Macri hopes can become the restaurant’s counterpart to Royal Tavern’s burger. His charcuterie program will focus on one featured item at a time rather than a large assortment.

    “Especially if we’re making it ourselves, I want to highlight one thing and give people a chance to really enjoy it,” he said.

    The beverage program is expected to include wines by the glass, a larger selection of Italian bottles, frozen cocktails, nonalcoholic drinks, and a small beer list. Desserts will likely include tiramisu and seasonal fruit tarts or crostatas.

    Macri said the partnership offered a chance to take on more responsibility without moving away from the daily work of running a restaurant.

    “I wanted to do something slightly larger and have more involvement than I do at Royal Tavern,” he said. “This seemed like the best opportunity for me to grow.”

    He jokingly proposed calling it “Another Italian Restaurant,” an idea that did not survive.

    “I don’t think they thought it was as funny as I did,” he said.

    O’Brien brings deep operations background to the partnership. In 1991, she began waiting tables at the then-hotspot Metropolis — now the Fine Wine & Good Spirits store at 1515 Locust St. — and moved into management at the Palm and Cuba Libre before helping Simons and Frank build Royal Restaurant Group, whose holdings include Royal Sushi & Izakaya and Triangle Tavern. She is now the company’s CEO and said she would remain so.

    “I’ve opened many restaurants, but this is the first one that’s actually mine,” she said. “It’s kind of funny.”

    Macri was the deciding factor.

    “I trust Nic,” O’Brien said. “He just likes really good food. It doesn’t have to be fancy, and he doesn’t try to make things into something they’re not. We’re very aligned on that.”

    The restaurant will occupy the former 1225 Raw space and the adjoining former Sushi by Bou space, vacant since the city Revenue Department shut it down in early 2025 over tax and liquor-licensing issues surrounding the former operator, Glu Hospitality. The property extends a block to Chestnut Street, and will have about 100 indoor seats, a private dining room, and a courtyard and terrace that could accommodate about 40 more.

    O’Brien, who oversees landscaping at several Royal properties, including the seasonal PHS pop-ups, said the outdoor space and the building’s historic character would help shape the design. Ambit Architecture, which worked with Royal on dancerobot, is handling the project.

    The partners envision a restaurant priced between Royal Tavern and Royal Boucherie, with enough flexibility for a casual weeknight dinner, a date, or a family meal.

    “It’s going to be fun,” O’Brien said. “It’s the kind of place where you might come a couple of times a week, bring your mom to dinner one night, or go on a date another night.”

  • McGlinchey’s Bar is back on the market as Center City’s pub scene continues to shift

    McGlinchey’s Bar is back on the market as Center City’s pub scene continues to shift

    Center City’s tavern landscape is shifting again.

    The building housing the shuttered McGlinchey’s Bar is back on the market after a planned sale fell through. Chef-restaurateur Townsend “Tod” Wentz wants to sell the Hayes, the American tavern he opened in the former Irish Pub building on Walnut Street near 12th. And Cherry Street Tavern, another historic watering hole whose owners announced plans to sell earlier this year, appears close to finding a buyer.

    The biggest surprise may be McGlinchey’s.

    The building housing McGlinchey’s had been a bar for 90 years before last summer’s shutdown.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer

    In April, Alterra Property Group confirmed that it was under agreement to buy the building at 259 S. 15th St., home to McGlinchey’s for more than 90 years before the dive bar closed in summer 2025. But Leo Addimando, Alterra’s cofounder and managing partner, said Wednesday that the company “decided not to proceed.”

    The building is listed by Nadia Bilynsky and Dennis Carlisle of MPN Realty at $2.45 million. The offering includes the liquor license, two bars, a stage, a small kitchen, and a shell-condition third floor. The property, which occupies nearly 5,000 square feet, is being marketed as a turnkey bar-restaurant opportunity or a redevelopment site.

    A few blocks east, another familiar address is available.

    Wentz has listed the Hayes, his 268-seat American tavern at 1123 Walnut St., through Veronica Blum and Joe Scarpone at MPN with an asking price of $2.93 million. City records show that it sold for $2.3 million in 2019.

    The Hayes, at 1123 Walnut St., previously was the short-lived Pearl Tavern, after many years as the Irish Pub.Michael Klein / Staff

    Wentz said he intends to keep the restaurant open until a sale.

    Wentz said the decision reflects a personal shift after years of expanding his restaurant group with his wife, Gordana Kostovski. “I want to take advantage of the increase in the real estate market,” he said. “I think it’s time to capitalize on some things and put some money to work elsewhere in my private life.”

    “I just kept opening restaurants instead of buying a shore house or buying a bigger home,” said Wentz, 58. “I don’t want to go into my 60s with that same mindset.”

    The Hayes at 1123 Walnut St., seen on June 16, 2026, still has the original sign of the Irish Pub, its previous occupant.Michael Klein / Staff

    The Hayes occupies one of Center City’s best-known tavern addresses.

    Richard and Catherine Burke opened the Irish Pub there in 1980, bringing with them the concept they had established in Atlantic City. For nearly four decades, it was a gathering place for lawyers, police officers, theatergoers, and neighborhood regulars, known for its carved wooden back bar, inexpensive food, and walls covered with framed newspapers and playbills.

    When longtime operator Mark O’Connor closed it in July 2019, he said he wanted to focus on the second Philadelphia Irish Pub location, at 2007 Walnut St.

    Wentz bought 1123 Walnut later that year, briefly opened Pearl Tavern before the pandemic derailed those plans, then renovated the property and reopened it as the Hayes in 2023. He owns Oloroso next door as well as Caribou Café across the street, A Mano in Fairmount, and Oltremare in Rittenhouse. A sixth restaurant, Townsend on East Passyunk, is closed pending repairs from water damage after a fire next door in May.

    The listing includes the 6,776-square-foot building, restaurant equipment, liquor license, and outdoor seating. The restaurant occupies the first two floors, while the upper levels contain office and unfinished space. The through-block property extends from Walnut Street to Moravian Street.

    The Bards at 2013 Walnut St. closed in 2020.

    The Hayes’ listing is the latest chapter in a broader reshaping of Center City’s pub scene. Over the last two decades, Philadelphia has lost a number of big names: Downey’s at Front and South Streets closed in 2016 after four decades. Finnigan’s Wake, the sprawling multilevel pub at Third and Spring Garden Streets, closed in 2014 and is now GoPuff’s headquarters. In 2020, the pandemic led to numerous shutdowns, such as Manny Brown’s at 512 South St. and the Bards at 2013 Walnut St.

    The sister Irish Pub at 2007 Walnut St. also never reopened after the pandemic. Earlier this year, restaurateur Dan Tsao, owner of EMei, purchased the property for a future hospitality project. One of the remaining stalwarts, the Black Sheep at 17th and Latimer Streets, was closed by a fire in May, though owner James Stephens said he hopes to reopen by Christmas.

    The former Irish Pub, 2007 Walnut St., on April 30, 2026.Michael Klein / Staff

    Meanwhile, Cherry Street Tavern, whose owners announced plans to sell earlier this year, also appears headed toward new ownership. A manager told The Inquirer on Wednesday that a sale is believed to be close, though no agreement has been announced publicly.

    Meanwhile, the longtime Bonner’s Irish Pub’s future is secure, said owner Danny Bonner, who opened at 23rd and Sansom Streets in 1994.

    Bonner, 71, put the building on the market in 2024, hoping to attract a developer. Instead, he struck a deal with the owner of the property next door to pursue an apartment project that would incorporate a new Bonner’s into its lobby.

    Bonner’s Irish Pub at 120 S. 23rd St. in April 2024.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    Bonner said one preliminary plan calls for a roughly 3,200-square-foot Bonner’s, about 900 to 1,200 square feet larger than the current pub. There is no timetable for the development, whose price tag Bonner estimated at $45 million to $55 million. The existing bar will remain open until construction begins.

    “Where I’m located, we’re fortunate,” Bonner said. “We get professionals, union guys, and loyal neighborhood customers.”

    Bonner’s Irish Pub owner Danny Bonner chatting with patrons in April 2024. Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

    Bonner hopes the project will allow the bar to outlast him.

    “You have to leave some kind of legacy,” he said. “We’re losing too many mom-and-pop operations. All these big franchises are coming in. Philadelphia is still a city of neighborhoods, and we’re losing that. My customers walk in, and while I don’t know every single one, I probably know 70% of them by their first name.”

    Staff writers Mike Newall and Jake Blumgart contributed to this article.

  • Our favorite restaurant sundaes | Let’s Eat

    Our favorite restaurant sundaes | Let’s Eat

    We know how to truly cap off a restaurant meal: a decadent ice cream sundae. Here are seven we love.

    Also in this edition:

    • Home cooks make the menu: Your first look at Recipe Philly, a $3.8 million restaurant with a novel concept opening in Center City.
    • Craig LaBan review: Terra Grill in Northern Liberties.
    • News: Read on for word of new restaurants in Queen Village and Kensington, and word of a Michelin-recommended restaurant’s expansion.

    — Mike Klein

    If someone forwarded you this email, sign up for free here.

    Our favorite restaurant sundaes

    What caps a meal better than a cool and creamy ice cream sundae? Hira Qureshi shares seven of these decadent treats found on restaurant menus.

    🍧 Two Philadelphia water ice makers locked down the top prizes at a water-ice festival at the Jersey Shore.

    A new restaurant where home cooks set the menu

    Here’s your first look at Recipe Philly, where home cooks — not pro chefs — contribute the recipes to create the menu. It’s also the basis for a reality series, filming now in advance of the restaurant’s mid-August opening.

    Why is Tattooed Mom not allowed to host live shows?

    Tattooed Mom has hosted countless drag shows and burlesque performances since it opened on South Street in 1997. But the city has shut down those events (but not the bar itself) over a missing assembly license. Getting one could take six months, its owner tells Beatrice Forman.

    River Twice is expanding

    River Twice on East Passyunk is expanding next door, and that means a real bar, more seating, and new opportunities to eat one of our favorite burgers.

    Craig LaBan reviews Terra Grill

    Critic Craig LaBan visits Terra Grill, a newcomer from globetrotting chef Laurent Tourondel in Northern Liberties’ Piazza Alta, where he found “a textbook chophouse vibe” and a “something for everyone” menu. Read on for his review.

    The best things we ate last week

    The food team caught up with a tasty chicken biscuit sandwich in Plymouth Meeting, hot dogs in Bella Vista, loaded fries in Northern Liberties, and a winning bowl of gyu-don from a food truck.

    Scoops

    Eggcetera Haus will replace the shuttered Redcrest Kitchen at Sixth and Bainbridge Streets, likely in the next few weeks. Husband-and-wife team Rey Tamaka and Vina Kencana will operate the all-day bar-restaurant. Tamaka, who spent the last six years as head chef at an Old City brunch restaurant, will oversee a modern American menu spanning breakfast, lunch, and dinner, while Kencana will manage operations. Breakfast will feature specialty coffee from Philadelphia’s Vibrant Coffee Roasters, with dinner service adding pasta, steaks, cocktails, and comfort food. Hours will be 8 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. Queen Village/Bella Vista will get another all-day option next spring when Sabrina’s Cafe opens at Fifth and Bainbridge, down the block from mainstay Famous 4th Street.

    Sabrina’s Cafe — speaking of which — is behind a new venture aimed at the late-night crowd. Spence De Abreu, the 21-year-old son of Sabrina’s founders Robert and Raquel De Abreu, is hoping for a late-July opening of Big Spence’s, a sandwich operation at 1816 Callowhill St., a few doors from the Art Museum-area Sabrina’s. It will run via delivery services and pickup (no seating), offering six sandwiches at launch, with additional menu items expected over time. Initial hours will vary, with service planned as late as 2 a.m. during the fall, when college students are back. Opening is tentatively scheduled for July 29.

    Scampi, chef Liz Grothe’s Queen Village Italian-ish restaurant, has added a beverage program in partnership with Northeast Philly winemaker Camuna Cellars. The tie-in allows spirits and beer options from Pennsylvania producers, including Fell to Earth vermouthery. BYOB is OK, with a $15-per-bottle corkage fee. Scampi also has collabs planned for August: Percy (at Percy) on Aug. 21; Habibi Supper Club (at Scampi) on Aug. 23; and an Italian American pasta night with chef Wyatt Piazza at Kiddo on Aug. 30.

    Chimney Rustic Ales closed its brewery in Hammonton, N.J., in June 2025, in anticipation of opening in Philadelphia. Brewmaster/owner Dan Borrelli is seeing light at the end of a city-permitting tunnel, so he’s looking at a late-2026 opening at 2153 E. Lehigh Ave. in Kensington. Borrelli said this location will have a full kitchen and a chef (to be named later) serving what he calls “elevated bar food, with some seafood mixed in.” Borrelli had a seafood truck called Minnow Seafood Co. “We’re not trying to earn a Michelin star,” he said. “We just want to serve food that’s a little more upscale than you’d typically find at a brewery or neighborhood bar.” He specializes in lagers but also offers IPAs — because “they make up about 60% of the market, so you kind of have to have them.”

    Restaurant report

    Schmaltz, a new arrival in Point Breeze, is drawing long lines with latkes, blintzes, and a craveable breakfast sandwich.

    Chibanos has opened at the former Effie’s in Washington Square West, and Delco-raised owner Evan Fong Jaroff expresses his Chinese-Cuban background through pressed sandwiches, fried yuca, flan, and croquetas. Beatrice Forman tells a fascinating story of food and culture.

    Call Your Mother, the D.C. bagel-sandwich chain, has signed a third Philly lease before the first shop even schmeared its first bagel.

    EMei’s Dan Tsao is taking over a fourth landmark restaurant location — the home of Old Original Bookbinder’s — as part of the Sichuan restaurant’s ambitious expansion.

    Briefly noted

    Townsend on East Passyunk Avenue has been closed since early May after extensive water damage from a fire next door. Chef/owner Tod Wentz has swung part of the French menu to Oltremare, his Mediterranean seafooder at 2121 Walnut St. “Townsend at Oltremare” offers a hybrid menu from Townsend executive chef Alex Nissley through at least the end of the summer.

    Baby’s Kusina & Market in Brewerytown returns Thursday, two weeks after a plumbing issue caused a flood. One change: Dinner service has been paused for the foreseeable future. Meanwhile, Baby’s will do a popup at 11 a.m. Monday at Farina Di Vita (250 Catharine St.) with a roast pork adobo sandwich.

    Hop Sing Laundromat (1029 Race St.) is pricing all cocktails at $12 for the summer, discounted from $17-$21; it’s open from 5 p.m. Thursday-Saturday.

    ❓Pop quiz

    Local bartenders have been foraging recently for what prized ingredient to make amaro?

    A) black walnuts

    B) wormwood

    C) rhubarb root

    D) truffles

    Find out if you know the answer.

    🚗 Winners! Last week’s quiz asked you to guess how many miles Craig LaBan put on his car while scouting restaurants for his Jersey Shore dining package. We had a tie — the total was 1,034 and two readers guessed 1,000, so I ordered a runoff. Jan D. of Norristown submitted “1,005” (29 miles under) while Ed H. of Philadelphia offered “1,066” (32 miles over). What’s 3 miles among friends? I’m sending Inquirer swag to both, along with my sincere thanks for reading.

    📖 Catch up with Craig’s Shore favorites here.

    Ask Mike anything

    Please update us on a couple of bakeries, like Manna near Norris Square and Del Buono’s, where McMillan’s was in South Jersey. — Scot T.

    Saif Manna, adding a brick-and-mortar location at 110 W. Berks St. in Kensington, is aiming for a soft-opening of Manna Bakery tomorrow, followed by a grand opening on July 30. Meanwhile, the PR machine is revving up for the opening of Del Buono’s, in a partnership with Al DiBartolo’s custom-cake studio DiBartolo’s Kakery, at 15 Haddon Ave. in Haddon Township’s Westmont section. Soft opening is planned for mid-August, with an Aug. 29 grand opening tied to Haddon Township Summer Music Festival.

    📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

    By submitting your written, visual, and/or audio contributions, you agree to The Inquirer’s Terms of Use, including the grant of rights in Section 10.

  • Lights, cameras, recipes: Philly’s home cooks are creating the menu for a new Center City restaurant

    Lights, cameras, recipes: Philly’s home cooks are creating the menu for a new Center City restaurant

    It’s three weeks before Recipe Philly’s opening day. The kitchen is finished, most of the 100 workers have been hired, and the dining room is a jumble of chairs, tables, and unfinished walls. But instead of construction crews applying finishing touches, cameras and lights have taken over.

    Opening a restaurant has been likened to putting on a show, and Recipe Philly — on the site of the long-ago McDonald’s at Broad and Arch Streets — is exactly that.

    Ed Baumstein, who dreamed up the Recipe Philly restaurant and reality series, on the set before contestants arrive.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    Its creator, retired corporate executive Ed Baumstein, decided to turn the making of the restaurant into a reality show. When Recipe Philly opens in mid-August, customers won’t be ordering entrees created by an executive chef. They’ll be eating dishes developed by home cooks across the Philadelphia region whose recipes survived months of auditions, judging, recipe testing, and filming for an eight-episode series that Baumstein is shopping around.

    Everything is under wraps. The producers are keeping the outcome secret, declining to identify contestants or winning recipes.

    Recipe Philly’s roots date to the 2008 recession, when Baumstein was running SolomonEdwards, the Philadelphia consulting firm he founded in 1999. As businesses tightened spending, his chief financial officer suggested canceling the company’s annual holiday party.

    Instead, Baumstein invited employees to his suburban home for a potluck dinner.

    “I was just blown away by the enthusiasm that our colleagues brought to the Christmas party,” Baumstein said. “They were super-excited about making their dishes. They watched the buffet table to see who was eating their dishes. We gave out little prizes, and just getting that three minutes of fame was unbelievable.”

    Ed Baumstein looks over plans for Recipe Philly, which is expected to open in mid-August.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    When Baumstein, 70, sold his company and retired nearly four years ago, he decided to turn that idea into Recipe Philly — a $3.8 million investment and his first restaurant. At 150 seats in the dining room and 22 at the bar, “we decided to go big,” Baumstein said.

    He announced the project last November with a casting call inside the Convention Center’s Broad Street atrium, where more than 1,000 people showed up to fill out recipe cards and share stories behind their dishes. Producers narrowed the field to 100 contestants, then further winnowed the competition to roughly 60 who advanced to the filmed cooking round.

    Josh Moore (right) photographs fellow judge Jennifer Carroll on the set of Recipe Philly.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    Contestants competed in categories including appetizers, soups and salads, poultry, seafood, pasta, meat entrées, desserts, and an “other” category for creative outliers. The process ultimately yielded 31 recipes that will appear on the restaurant’s opening menu.

    The competition didn’t end there. The remaining episodes being filmed this month have shifted from building the menu to crowning a champion.

    Sixteen contestants earned “silver spoons” from the judges and advanced into semifinal rounds devoted to particular categories. Those winners will compete for $70,000 in prize money — including one winner of $10,000. But regardless of who wins, the original 31 recipes will be served opening night.

    Ed Baumstein (center) chats with Recipe Philly judges Clara Park (left) and Josh Moore.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    “The city is building the menu,” said Josh Randall, a veteran casting producer for American Idol who is the show’s host and one of its producers. “These aren’t celebrity chefs. They’re neighbors, friends, brothers, sisters, parents — people who ordinarily wouldn’t have an opportunity to be on television.”

    Randall said that distinction attracted him to the project. When Baumstein first approached him, the concept was still evolving.

    “As a documentary, maybe it’s a 90-minute film,” Randall said. “As a competition, I thought it could sustain eight episodes.”

    Chef Andy Revella (left) talks the production staff in the kitchen at Recipe Philly. At right is supervising producer Jon Espinoza.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    But he insisted that the show avoid the drama that dominates many reality competitions.

    “A lot of reality television is cutthroat,” Randall said. “I was drawn to the chance to create something lighter that celebrates people rather than tearing them down.”

    This might be the friendliest reality series ever. The judges — Jennifer Carroll, a veteran of Top Chef; Clara Park, a Chopped champion; and influencer Josh Moore, who goes by @josheatsphilly — say they’ve cried multiple times while hearing the stories. “You end up rooting for everyone,” Park said.

    Carroll said nearly every contestant arrived with more than a recipe.

    Ed Baumstein (left) in the still-unfinished Recipe Philly restaurant.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    “Every contestant has a personal story behind the dish,” she said. “Some recipes have been passed down through generations. Others are completely original.”

    She said the judges make a point of talking with contestants after judging because rejection can sting.

    “This show is the opposite of a lot of competitive cooking shows,” Carroll said. “It’s not about tearing people down or humiliating them. It’s about lifting them up.”

    Moore conceded that he expected more sentimental cooking than exceptional cooking.

    “I wondered whether someone might show up with something very simple,” he said. “Instead, people have really brought their best.”

    For Park, one of the biggest surprises has been watching Philadelphia’s diversity emerge through its food.

    “You literally see all the different neighborhoods and ethnic communities of Philadelphia come to life through these dishes,” she said. “There are dishes I’ve never seen before that are emblematic of certain cultures.”

    Behind the scenes, another challenge awaited. Home recipes are scaled to the dinner table. Some require elaborate preparation. Many rely on instinct rather than measurements.

    Chef Andy Revella in the kitchen, which has hoodless venting, at Recipe Philly.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    That work fell to chef Andy Revella, 74, the restaurant’s operating partner, whose resume includes Bennigan’s, Steak & Ale, Rainforest Cafe, and Harrah’s restaurants worldwide. Jarrett O’Hara, formerly culinary director of Federal Donuts, is vice president of culinary operations.

    “We’re just going to take their recipe and say, ‘Here’s how we’d do it in a restaurant,’” Revella said. “The flavor, the taste, and the look stay the same. The process is different.”

    The judges also had to consider labor, food costs, consistency, and whether recipes could realistically be reproduced hundreds of times.

    Food is delivered to Recipe Philly for the filming.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    “What one person can prepare at home is very different from what a restaurant can consistently reproduce for hundreds of guests,” Park said.

    Even the kitchen itself departs from convention.

    Revella has set up all-electric kitchen featuring self-contained filtration systems, advanced grease interception, and other technology designed to improve indoor air quality while reducing wastewater.

    “When we talk about a green kitchen, the first thing you’ll notice is there are no traditional exhaust hoods,” Revella said. “We don’t put grease into the air.”

    The flat-top griddle, which ordinarily would sit beneath a hood, is equipped with a device that traps grease and smoke.

    Baumstein said the environmental approach mattered as much as the technology.

    “I grew up with Earth Day and environmental awareness,” he said. “Doing something positive for the environment has always mattered to me.”

    The restaurant, designed by Nelson Worldwide, aims to feel more like someone’s home than a television set. Warm wood tones, intentionally mismatched plateware, a mural of the Italian Market behind the bar, a wall of vintage rolling pins, and a 40-seat private dining room reinforce the idea that the menu began in home kitchens. The look is whimsical in the restrooms, with wallpaper depicting Ben Franklin blowing a bubblegum bubble.

    Restrooms at Recipe Philly.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer

    “We wanted people to feel like they were walking into someone’s home kitchen,” Baumstein said. “Since the restaurant is built around home cooks, we wanted every aspect of the design to reflect that idea.”

    Recipe Philly will serve lunch and dinner. Baumstein said entrees will be priced from $25 to $35.

    Randall hopes diners eventually see past the television-production aspect and recognize something more enduring.

    “I fell in love with the heart of the project,” he said. “Then I met the people from the city and realized they had stories that deserved to be told in a fun way.”

    Watercolors by Philadelphia artist Joe Barker decorate the set of Recipe Philly.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer
  • River Twice is expanding next door, bringing more Mother Rucker burgers, more seating, and a bar

    River Twice is expanding next door, bringing more Mother Rucker burgers, more seating, and a bar

    To everyone who has hankered for a Mother Rucker burger at River Twice on a day other than a Monday, Amanda Rucker and chef Randy Rucker have a solution.

    River Twice will expand this fall into the former Manatawny Still Works space next door, adding a full-service bar to the dining room and chef’s counter at Tasker Street and East Passyunk Avenue.

    River Twice is expanding next door into 1603 E. Passyunk Ave., the former Manatawny Still Works.Mike Prince

    The Ruckers are targeting a September debut for the space at 1603 E. Passyunk Ave., which connects to the Michelin-recommended restaurant by a passageway. Though the renovation will eliminate a few seats in the existing dining room, the project will add 24 seats overall, including a 13-seat bar, a standing drink rail, a temperature-controlled wine display, and a second restroom.

    After Manatawny announced last summer that it was closing its tasting rooms, the landlord Passyunk Avenue Revitalization Corp. approached the Ruckers about taking over. “We live in the neighborhood with our kids, and it felt like a chance to plant even deeper roots here,” Amanda Rucker said.

    For Randy Rucker, the biggest attraction was the opportunity to broaden the restaurant’s appeal.

    River Twice owners Randy and Amanda Rucker (center, with children Ruby and Stiles), with Jhazmyn Wallace, Jeff McConnell, Autumn Impalli, and Bret Whartenby.Mike Prince

    “River Twice has always been a commitment,” he said. “People come in for a multicourse dining experience. Having a dedicated bar program lets us serve people who just want to stop in for a drink and a snack without committing to the tasting menu.”

    The addition will remain part of River Twice, not a separate concept. It will have its own cocktail program and an à la carte menu, while guests seated at the bar will also be able to order the tasting menu.

    Besides the Mother Rucker burger — two quarter-pound patties from Allen Bros. with American cheese, everything-spiced mayo, and pickled onions on a seeded Mighty Bread Co. bun, offered now only on Mondays — the bar menu will include shrimp toast with uni, ricotta beignets, nightly oyster crudo, and rotating cheese selections from the Farm at Doe Run. General manager/beverage director Jhazmyn Wallace will oversee the cocktail program.

    River Twice’s tasting menu will also expand from four to five courses, beginning with canapés.

    The project gives Amanda Rucker her largest artistic canvas yet. After designing the interiors of both River Twice and their second restaurant, Rittenhouse’s Little Water, she is painting a mural that will span the entire south wall of the new bar.

    The bar is expected to operate Thursday through Monday beginning at 5 p.m.

  • EMei owner leases Bookbinder’s space in Old City, his fourth landmark restaurant acquisition in a year

    EMei owner leases Bookbinder’s space in Old City, his fourth landmark restaurant acquisition in a year

    Dan Tsao, the owner of the Chinatown Sichuan restaurant EMei, has leased the former Olde Bar at Second and Walnut Streets in Old City. It’s the fourth landmark restaurant property he has taken on in the Philadelphia area in the last year.

    The building, home to Old Original Bookbinder’s for generations before becoming Olde Bar in 2015, joins the former John Henry’s Pub in Ardmore, Marra’s in South Philadelphia, and Irish Pub in Rittenhouse in Tsao’s portfolio.

    Tsao said this deal marks the end of an expansion plan driven by the long lines and limited capacity of the basement kitchen at his restaurant at 915 Arch St. EMei is one of Philadelphia’s most acclaimed Chinese dining rooms, earning a spot on The Inquirer’s 76 list of essential restaurants in 2024.

    “People see Bookbinder’s as another restaurant,” Tsao said. “I see it as the large production kitchen we’ve been dreaming about. We’ve insisted on making everything from scratch — our chili oil, dumplings, egg rolls, scallion pancakes, sauces — you name it. We’ve never wanted to cut corners. This gives us the space to keep doing things the way we’ve always believed they should be done.”

    Dan Tsao, publisher of Metro Chinese News and other publications, and owner of EMei, in 2022.Joseph N. DiStefano

    “From the outside, it may look like we’ve been on an acquisition spree, but that really wasn’t the goal,” Tsao told The Inquirer. “Our focus now is opening these locations one at a time and making sure each one succeeds before we think about anything else.”

    Each property will have a different role, Tsao said. The former John Henry’s, on Cricket Avenue, and Marra’s, on East Passyunk Avenue, are both destined to become future EMei restaurants. Old City will first serve as a commissary kitchen before adding a dining room, bar, and event venue, while the former Irish Pub — a mixed-use building spanning 2007-11 Walnut St. — is being developed as a broader hospitality concept rather than another EMei location.

    Tsao, who emigrated from China in the 1990s and graduated from Pennsylvania State University in 1999, owns EMei and nearby TingTing’s Cafe, along with New Mainstream Press, publisher of Metro Chinese Weekly and Metro Viet News. His mother-in-law, Jinwen Yu, and chef Yongcheng Zhao opened EMei in 2011; Tsao and his wife, TingTing, took over the business in 2019. (Zhao is still the chef.)

    Dan Tsao’s restaurant EMei at 915 Arch St. in Chinatown in 2025.Michael Klein

    Tsao said the acquisitions were never intended to happen simultaneously — several independent opportunities simply surfaced within a short period. “It may look like we’re expanding quickly, but internally we’re actually slowing down,” he said.

    “The way I look at these projects is that I’m buying them partly as a long-term real estate investor and partly as an owner-operator,” he said. “That gives us the flexibility to move at our own pace, take the time to figure out each space, and make sure we do it the right way instead of rushing to open.”

    A kitchen too good to pass up

    The Olde Bar/Bookbinder’s property is different from the others: Rather than purchase the condominium space outright, Tsao signed a lease with an option to buy. The Philadelphia Business Journal first reported EMei’s application for a liquor license at the address.

    The biggest draw wasn’t the stained glass and landmark dining rooms, decked out in late-19th-century furnishings — it was the kitchen. Spanning nearly half the ground floor, it includes five walk-in refrigerators and freezers and two 32-foot cooking lines beneath exhaust hoods, allowing Tsao to begin operations without the extensive demolition and rebuilding required at his other properties.

    “If not for the kitchen space, I would not consider it,” Tsao said. “It is very hard to find such a large kitchen in Center City.”

    The property, at 125 Walnut St., includes about 13,000 square feet on the ground floor, plus 5,000 square feet of basement storage. The first phase will be largely behind the scenes: Tsao plans to use the building as a commissary kitchen to relieve pressure on the Chinatown restaurant, while also running takeout and delivery as EMei Old City. Later, he expects to open a roughly 60-seat dining room and bar, followed by an event venue. He’s considering calling the overall complex the Bindery and the bar the Publisher Bar — nods to both the building’s Bookbinder heritage and his own nearly two decades in publishing.

    The vertical neon Bookbinder’s sign on the east corner of the property “has to stay,” Tsao said.

    Work has begun at all four properties, but Tsao said they will open one at a time. Because the kitchen is largely intact, the Old City site may be the first of the new locations to begin limited operations, with dining and event spaces to follow as renovations continue in Ardmore, on Passyunk, and in Rittenhouse.

    A building with many lives

    Old Original Bookbinder’s traces its roots to an oyster saloon that Samuel Bookbinder opened in 1893 at 525 S. Fifth St. before moving to 125 Walnut St. in 1898. Over the next century, it became one of Philadelphia’s signature restaurants, drawing presidents, politicians, celebrities, and generations of diners for oysters, lobster, and its famed snapper soup. For many, it was their first ritzy dining experience in the days when people dressed up for dinner.

    It also spawned a crosstown rival after a family split. Bookbinders Seafood House opened in 1935 at 215 S. 15th St. and closed in 2003. It was later an Applebee’s, which ran from 2005 to 2020, and is now a music bar called Vinyl.

    After a major renovation and condominium conversion in the early 2000s, Bookbinder’s struggled financially and closed in 2009 amid bankruptcy. The Taxin family, who bought the original Bookbinder’s in 1945, still owns an Old Original Bookbinder’s restaurant in Richmond, Va., which opened in 1999.

    Chef Jose Garces revived the landmark in 2015 as the Olde Bar, preserving much of the historic architecture while reimagining it as a contemporary oyster house and cocktail bar.

    The restaurant filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in 2018 and later was acquired by investors. The restaurant closed for public dining in 2024 but continued as an events venue and served as headquarters for Garces Events, the catering company founded by Garces and owned by Compass Group USA. Compass closed both Garces Events and the Olde Bar last year.