The soft-shell crab is one of the pleasures of late spring and summer. They offer the sweet, briny flavor of fresh blue crab wrapped in a delicate, edible shell that turns crisp when cooked.
This year’s season, however, appears to have been compressed.
Soft-shells are blue crabs that have recently shed their hard outer shell and are briefly in a soft, vulnerable state. Anthony D’Angelo of South Philadelphia seafood distributor Samuels Seafood said warmer water temperatures brought on the crab molt early, while fewer marketable peelers, weather interruptions, and normal predation left restaurants with fewer crabs and a shorter window.
Volume this year is down about 20% from last year, yet prices last year were about 15% higher, D’Angelo said.
As an example, D’Angelo said jumbo soft-shells sold for an average of about $98 a dozen in May, compared with roughly $117 a dozen during the same period last year. Another run of crabs from the Carolinas is expected in late August or early September, likely at lower prices, he said.
Many restaurants are offering soft-shells when they can get them. Blue Corn in the Italian Market recently featured them as tacos with mango slaw, guacamole, fresh jalapeño, and microgreens.
Others keep them on the menu throughout the season. Soft-shells remain one of the more expensive seafood items. Several restaurateurs said they are paying $95 to $100 a dozen for jumbo crabs. Given that many restaurants target food costs of roughly 30% to 33% of menu price, that is one reason a soft-shell dish can easily top $30.
For chef Randy Rucker, who serves soft-shells at both River Twice and Little Water, the annual ritual is worth the cost and unpredictability. “When they’re available, we grab them,” he said. “They’re special. They’ll always be special.”
Here are some of the dishes I’ve found. As always, call ahead to confirm availability.
Soft-shell crabs, herb crusted over an arugula salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and mango, at Caffe Aldo Lamberti, 2011 Marlton Pike, Cherry Hill.Courtesy of Caffe Aldo Lamberti
Caffe Aldo Lamberti, Cherry Hill
Chef Genaro “Jerry” Ventura changes the preparation of his crabs frequently at this Italian destination. Last week, he crusted soft-shells with herbs and served them over arugula with tomatoes, cucumbers, and mango. Another preparation paired pan-seared soft-shells with squid-ink linguine, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, tomatoes, and snap peas. Expect to pay about $28 for one crab at lunch or $45 to $48 for two at dinner.
Condesa, Center City
At this Mexican restaurant, chef Jason Peabody’s crab relleno features beer-battered soft-shell crab with green rice, salsa roja, and epazote mayo ($34).
At the Crossbar (2225 Darby Rd., Havertown), a soft-shell crab sandwich is deep fried and topped with a smoky house- made harissa aioli, lettuce, and tomato and served on Le Bus brioche bun.Courtesy of the Crossbar
The Crossbar, Havertown
This Delco taproom’s soft-shell is battered and fried, then topped with smoky house-made harissa aioli, lettuce, and tomato on a Le Bus brioche bun ($24).
Soft-shell crab with flageolet beans, tapenade, and preserved lemon at the Good King Tavern, 614 S. Seventh St.Ed Newton
The Good King Tavern, Bella Vista
The French bistro has featured soft-shell crab as a chalkboard special with flageolet beans, tapenade, and preserved lemon ($32).
Chicken-fried soft-shell crab with vin jaune hollandaise and sorrel at Little Water, 261 S. 20th St.
.Courtesy of Little Water
Little Water, Center City
This seafood restaurant’s chicken-fried soft-shell crab comes with vin jaune hollandaise and sorrel ($42).
The soft-shell Benedict at Lucky Duck, 501 N. Columbus Blvd.Pri Rambhia
Lucky Duck, Old City/Northern Liberties
Soft-shells are on this riverside bar’s weekend brunch menu as a Benedict with Old Bay Alabama white sauce, arugula, and hollandaise, on brioche.
Oyster House, Center City
The seafood destination’s grilled soft-shell crab ($36) is plated with poblano Dijon sauce, blanched asparagus, smoked trout roe, and pickled ramps. There’s also a fried soft-shell crab BLT ($29) with smoked bacon and ramp buttermilk ranch.
Soft-shell hoagie tartine at Post Haste, 2519 Frankford Ave.KC Tinari
Post Haste, Kensington
At this farm-to-table restaurant, chef Ari Miller (husband of Inquirer food reporter Kiki Aranita) offers a soft-shell hoagie tartine featuring a breaded and fried crab on Brass Monkey bread with green coriander mayo, shredded local iceberg lettuce, heirloom tomato, crispy herbs, and caviar lime ($24).
Soft-shell crab cooked over charcoal with crab fat and golden Ossetra caviar at River Twice, 1601 E. Passyunk Ave.Mike Prince
River Twice, South Philadelphia
The signature preparation at this Southern restaurant returns this season: a soft-shell crab grilled over charcoal and finished with crab-fat koji butter and golden Ossetra caviar ($52).
At Stina (1705 Snyder Ave.), the soft-shell crab is served with Greek-style potato salad, capers, lemon, herbs, extra-virgin olive oil, smoked trout caviar, and Bukovo vinaigrette.Courtesy of Stina
Stina, South Philadelphia
At his Mediterranean restaurant, chef Bobby Saritsoglou serves soft-shell crab with Greek-style potato salad, capers, lemon, herbs, extra-virgin olive oil, smoked trout caviar, and Bukovo vinaigrette ($36).
At noon on a bright June Tuesday, the scene at Skinny Joey’s Cheesesteaks & Pizza on the Wildwood boardwalk felt more like a South Philly block party than a soft opening.
Joseph “Skinny Joey” Merlino worked the crowd at his new shop — hugging, shaking hands, posing for photos — moving easily among his friends and admirers. At 64, five years removed from the criminal justice system, the onetime alleged head of Philadelphia’s underworld is enjoying a second act that few could have predicted: cheesesteak entrepreneur, podcaster, and social-media personality.
Joseph “Skinny Joey” Merlino (left) and Joe “Lil Snuff” Perri Jr. (right) posing with a customer outside the Skinny Joey’s Cheesesteaks & Pizza shop in Wildwood.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer
Orbiting him with a phone and a grin was Joe “Lil Snuff” Perri Jr. — 30 years his junior — Skinny Joey’s collaborator and the man who helped set him up with a new career. While customers lined up out front for steaks, slices, photos, $35 hats, and $25 T-shirts, Perri was shooting clips for social media.
Their partnership has transformed Merlino from a flashy, polarizing tabloid fixture into a flashy, polarizing Instagram-age brand. Merlino provides the mythology, while Perri supplies the algorithm.
Symbiotically, they are building an unlikely enterprise. Merlino gives Perri access, credibility, and a bigger stage. Perri gives Merlino comic relief, social-media fluency, and a way to be seen as entrepreneurial rather than simply infamous as a reputed former mob boss.
“Without me, there’s no him,” Perri said. “Without him, there’s no me. It’s just a good mix.”
Joseph “Skinny Joey” Merlino joining customers at Skinny Joey’s in Wildwood during its soft opening on June 2. They call themselves “the Schuylkill Girls” (from left): Julie Shelton, Cindy McCullough, and Terry Landy, all of whom now live in Wildwood.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer
A ‘mob media’ moment
George Anastasia, who covered organized crime for more than 30 years at The Inquirer and now teaches an organized-crime course at Rowan University, said Merlino’s new career fits a broader moment in mob media.
Former wiseguys, associates, historians, and fans now gather in a true-crime subculture known online as “MobTube,” where the lore is packaged into YouTube shows, Patreon feeds, podcasts, clips, and merch.
Merlino has lived the story that fuels the genre. One of Philadelphia’s most recognizable organized-crime figures, Merlino was convicted in 1990 for his role in a $352,000 armored truck robbery in 1987.
In 2001, he and six co-defendants were tried on federal racketeering charges, including three counts of murder and two of attempted murder. Merlino was acquitted on those counts, but served about 12 years on other charges, including gambling and extortion. A supervised-release violation briefly returned him to prison in 2014, and a second major racketeering case ended in 2018 with a guilty plea to a single illegal-gambling charge after a mistrial. In a separate trial in 2004, he was acquitted of the 1996 killing of Joseph Sodano, an underling in North Jersey. Merlino completed federal supervision in 2021, but he’s been banned from New Jersey casinos since 1988 and from Pennsylvania casinos since a 2016 incident at the former SugarHouse Casino.
And Merlino has made it no secret that he is different from many of the former figures who populate the MobTube genre. Unlike Sammy “The Bull” Gravano, John Alito, and Jimmy Calandra, Merlino never cooperated with prosecutors.
“He saw guys who cooperated come back and become media sensations,” Anastasia said. “And I think he got [annoyed] that these are all guys who, in his view, violated the code, and now they’re making money on that old life. He did his time as a stand-up guy. ‘So [to heck with that] — I’m going to make money, too.’ And he created this brand.”
Joseph “Skinny Joey” Merlino (left) and Joe Perri Jr. on the set of “The Skinny” podcast.Courtesy of Joe Perri Jr.
Perri helped make that legible to a younger audience.
“Lil Snuff is part sycophant and part guide,” Anastasia said. “He’s the one who, in a lot of ways, sets the flow. Joey is going to be Joey, but somebody has to keep bringing him back to the point.”
The rise of Lil Snuff
Before he was Merlino’s co-host, Perri was Lil Snuff.
The nickname came from his father: As a 10-year-old, Joe Sr. turned around when a cousin was calling for a dog named Snuffy. Boom. He was Snuff. When his son was born at Methodist Hospital in 1992, Snuff became Big Snuff.
As a teenager, Lil Snuffbussedtables at Stogie Joe’s, the Saloon, and Fitzwater Cafe. At 18, he joined the stagehands union. At 21, he got a job at Mall Chevrolet in Cherry Hill. The older salesmen had relationships and repeat customers. Perri’s mentor told him that he needed a lane.
It was 2013, and social media was beginning to reshape promotion. Perri started making his own brassy, unscripted commercials. “Selling Chevys for less” became his tagline.
He also made videos about gambling and food, his two passions. He was not famous, but he was visible in the South Philly-to-South Jersey social media corridor where restaurants, sports, betting, family, and neighborhood identity blur into one feed.
At the same time, Perri said, he was abusing pills. In 2014, at 22, his parents found him a rehab center in South Florida. To make sure he got there safely, they called a family friend whose Italian restaurant in Boca Raton had recently opened:
Joey Merlino.
“My father grew up with his grandfather,” Merlino said, explaining the bond. “I grew up with his father. I’ve known him since he was born.”
Joseph “Skinny Joey” Merlino in 2014 at the Boca Raton restaurant bearing his name.Terry Renna / For The Inquirer
Perri said it took several attempts before recovery stuck. He has been sober since Sept. 11, 2016. “I’m big with recovery,” he said. “That’s the main thing in my life. I put sobriety first and then everything after that.”
Merlino’s — where Merlino was maitre d’ because his legal situation then precluded ownership — closed in 2016, just before the feds arrested Merlino at his home in Boca in the lead-up to his second racketeering case. “If I didn’t have this trouble, it would still be open,” Merlino said earlier this month.
After Merlino attained freedom in July 2021, producers called with movie, television, and book deals. Merlino turned them all down. “Nothing seemed right,” Merlino said. Someone brought up the idea of a podcast.
“I didn’t even know what that was,” Merlino said.
Joseph “Skinny Joey” Merlino leaving the federal courthouse in Manhattan after being sentenced on Oct. 17, 2018.Elizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer
His friend Raymond “Wags” Wagner explained the concept and suggested a loose format built around food and sports betting. Actor Kevin Connolly of Entourage fame, who was involved early as a producer, told Merlino that he needed a co-host.
“They said, ‘Who would you want?’” Perri said. “They were sending him people, and he was like, ‘I’m not doing nothing with these people.’”
Then Ray Wags suggested Perri.
“Joey was like, ‘100 percent. Get him on the phone,’” Perri said. “Kevin Connolly said, ‘Send me your videos.’ I sent him my videos, and he said, ‘You’re the guy.’ The rest was history.”
The world of ‘MobTube’
Merlino and Perri launched the video podcast in 2023. Viewers are not just watching Merlino talk about the old life. They see him bust Perri’s chops about eating too much and mock his parlays. They get gambling tips, watch them interview athletes and celebrities — all part of a South Philly generational comedy.
Perri describes it in family terms. “My dad’s my dad, but he’s also my best friend, too,” Perri said. “We gamble together. We go out together. We have fun together. So they see me and Joey as that, and they can’t figure out how we mix so good.”
“He’s good,” Merlino said. “I’m old, he’s young. He talks good, he’s funny. He’s a pain in the balls, but it’s a good fit.”
They began The Skinny podcast on YouTube, but now focus more on Patreon, where the content is unfiltered. And better monetized. Perri says TheSkinny has 1,600 Patreon subscribers paying $15.95 a month. He said their social-media pages combined average 30 million views a month.
Perri’s wife, Danielle, handles bookings and schedules. “I produce,” Perri said. “I cut the clips. I do everything. It’s me and Joey. Two-man show.”
A wider audience
When they started, Perri was still selling cars at Mall Chevrolet. But the now-shuttered dealership got tired of people showing up hoping to see Merlino instead of test-driving a Suburban.
Perri quit. The show grew.Merlino’s reinvention has coincided with a broader shift in the gambling world. Legal sportsbooks, now ubiquitous on television and online, have largely supplanted the corner bookmaker, turning an activity once associated with organized crime into a mainstream consumer business. Guests span sports, hip-hop, gambling, and entertainment, including Wallo267, Fat Joe, Ric Flair, and Bernard Hopkins.
Each booking widened his audience, and Merlino was being absorbed into a broader celebrity ecosystem.
Last October, Netflix released Mob War: Philadelphia vs. The Mafia, a docuseries revisiting the violent 1990s power struggle between John Stanfa and Merlino’s younger faction. It steered even more viewers to Merlino and Perri’s world.
‘Skinny Joey,’ wit’
Then came the cheesesteaks.
One night, Perri, Merlino, and friends were playing poker. Merlino wanted cheesesteaks. Perri said he’d make them.
“He’s like, ‘You can’t make cheesesteaks,’” Perri said. “I said, ‘Are you nuts? I’ve been making them my whole life.’”
Perri cooked some. “He was like, ‘This is the best f— cheesesteak ever,’” Perri said. “He said, ‘Let’s open up a cheesesteak place.’ I said, ‘All right. Call it Skinny Joey’s Cheesesteaks.’ And that was it.”
The first shop opened in March 2025 at 3020 S. Broad St., near the sports complex. From the start, Skinny Joey’s was more than a sandwich shop. It was a set. The shop leaned into Merlino’s notoriety; the sandwiches are wrapped in a collage of newspaper articles about his past.
Joseph “Skinny Joey” Merlino (left) working the grill beside Joe “Lil Snuff” Perri Jr. at the Skinny Joey’s Cheesesteaks in Philadelphia at its opening in March 2025.Jessica Griffin / Staff Photographer
Celebrities showed up: Jason Kelce, Landon Dickerson, Mack Wilson. A customer eating a cheesesteak was good content. A recognizable person eating one on camera was better.
The restaurant also became a magnet for the kind of drama that fuels digital engagement: online beef. Podcaster Gene Borrello, a former Bonnano crime family associate and Merlino antagonist, weighed in last year on an apparent feud between Skinny Joey’s camp and Frank Olivieri of Pat’s King of Steaks. Merlino and Perri had taken issue with a video posted by Olivieri — whose great-uncle invented the steak sandwich — in which he chided shops that chop the meat on the grill. Like most online food feuds, this seems to have subsided.
Then came the deal for Wildwood, where Skinny Joey’s replaced Joe’s Pizzeria, which had been on the boardwalk at Magnolia Avenue for 15 years. There, Skinny Joey’s added pizza and stromboli, which are not sold at the South Philadelphia location.
Reflections in the pizza display case on the boardwalk at Skinny Joey’s Cheesesteaks & Pizza in Wildwood.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer
The pizza recipe comes from Vito’s on Haddonfield Berlin Road in Cherry Hill, and the stromboli from Pizza Shack at 15th and Oregon in South Philadelphia, both owned by Skinny Joey’s business partners Stephen Casasanto and John Fioravanti, whom Merlino also described as longtime friends.
More locations are planned. Perri said a Boothwyn shop is expected around Sept. 1, and several others are in the pipeline.
Bypassing the gatekeepers
Merlino is an extreme case of a recent phenomenon. People with complicated histories — criminal, scandalous, controversial, or simply overexposed — no longer need traditional gatekeepers to reintroduce themselves. They can speak directly to followers and monetize the attention.
Perri is not a journalist, of course, or a publicist, exactly. He is not merely a manager, producer, or sidekick. He is something in between — a new kind of local media operator.
He knows the scene, and how to make content feel unscripted even when the business behind it is deliberate. He is close enough to Merlino to bust his chops and deferential enough to preserve the hierarchy. He can translate Merlino to younger audiences without making him seem managed.
Perri softens Merlino without sanding him down. Merlino still curses, rants, and mocks rivals. Anyone they disagree with is a “bedbug.”
Joseph “Skinny Joey” Merlino greets a table of customers at Skinny Joey’s Cheesesteaks & Pizza in Wildwood.Tom Gralish / Staff Photographer
“At the end of the day, Joey isn’t going to change who he is for anybody,” Perri said. “If he can’t talk the way he wants to talk, what’s the point?”
That is part of the appeal and part of the discomfort. The audience knows Merlino’s history. They may see him as funny, defiant, loyal, misunderstood, or simply entertaining.
“There’s a segment of the American population that has always been fascinated with the outlaw: Billy the Kid, Jesse James, Don Corleone, Al Capone,” Anastasia said. “What the internet has provided is: Here are these guys in their own words. Are they being genuine? I don’t know. You can say that about any personality. But here’s a look at them without any filter.”
The filter used to be people like Anastasia.
“I was, in a lot of ways, the middleman between the people who were interested in this and the guys who were doing it,” he said. “And people who are interested in this don’t need the middleman anymore. They just go online and listen to whoever they want to listen to.”
🚨Inquirer Food Fest will return Nov. 14 with a new format and a hot lineup of chefs and experiences. Read up on the details and snag your early-bird discount now.
🏅The 2026 James Beard Awards are Monday night. Follow along on Inquirer.com as the seven Philadelphia finalists walk the red carpet and hope for glory.
Also in this edition:
La Famiglia: At age 50, the Old City Italian destination is still sharp.
The Inquirer Food team got the assignment: Choose the 76 dishes that define Philadelphia — the flavors, traditions, and creations that have shaped the culinary scene over the centuries. This week, we’re counting down, , day by day. The top 10 will appear Friday.
Where to watch the Philadelphia FIFA matches (aside from “Philadelphia Stadium,” né Lincoln Financial Field)? Beatrice Forman offers a roundup of 19 bars in the city and suburbs.
Vedge in Center City is offering what it says is the world’s first tasting course dedicated to bean-to-bar chocolate — and it’s all vegan. “It’s like a little bow that wraps up the end of a meal,” co-owner Kate Jacoby told Beatrice Forman.
Craig LaBan kicks it old-school for a visit to La Famiglia in Old City, which opened in 1976 on Front Street near Market. (At its front door right now is a project to cap I-95 to create a park. Fifty years ago, there was no I-95.) Craig came away from his review meals dazzled at the gilded room, enthralled by the legendary wine cellar, and impressed with the kitchen that still cooks on all burners.
International cheesesteak news
American cheese has disappeared from the shelves of Costco Japan, throwing Nihonbashi Philly, Tokyo’s Philly cheesesteak outpost, for a loop. Kiki Aranita has the report.
There’s better news out of South Korea. When Henry Jeong opened Wiir Philadelphia in Seoul in 2022, he said his cheesesteaks were “garbage.” Now Jeong’s restaurant is thriving, all thanks to traditional hoagie rolls he learned to make during a trip to Philly.
That sandwich shown above is the K-Town cheesesteak from Double Down Kitchen, which is soft-opening now at Ridge Hall in Ambler under Binoy Cherian and Nathan Baynes. It’s a luscious but zingy combo of ribeye, kimchi, grilled onions, four cheeses (Cooper, mozzarella, provolone, mild cheddar), and gochujang aioli on a seeded roll from Corropolese Bakery. They also do steaks with Indian and Middle Eastern spins.
Where have we gone to sup this week? To Rittenhouse for Northeastern Chinese specialties, to Queen Village for cheese-stuffed soft-shell crab parm, to the Wildwood boardwalk for stromboli, and to Cherry Hill for this corned beef and chopped liver on rye.
Scoops
Mixteca, a cantina out of New York backed by James Beard Award-winning bartenders, will join East Kensington’s burgeoning restaurant scene next month. It’s taking the former Martha space for an indoor-outdoor experience.
ANEU Kitchens, which deals in healthful comfort food, just signed a lease for part of the former Di Bruno Bros. space at the Ardmore Farmers Market in Suburban Square. Owner Meridith Coyle plans to open what will be her fourth location by July 1. As Brooke Schultz reported last week, ANEU also has a location on the way to Wayne, making it No. 5. Speaking of the farmers market: The Asian-fusion food stall Aziatischjust closed after 13 years, while lease negotiations continue for three new vendors, says broker Doug Green of MSC.
Restaurant report
Punch Buggy Brewing Co.’s long-awaited brewery in Spring City opens Saturday. Patrick Coyne’s first location opened seven years ago in North Philadelphia. He told Brooke Schultz that he’s learned something about Chester Countians since he moved there two years ago: They especially like sours and dark beers.
Barra Rossa, which opened at 10th and Walnut Streets in 2013 as Stella Rossa, has closed with the end of its lease. Owner Dave Magrogan said the building, owned by Jefferson Hospital, needed a complete overhaul. With the end of the season at the nearby Walnut Street Theatre, it was “the logical time to close,” he said. Magrogan’s first partner there was gift-store magnate Bernie Spain — “a great negotiator, businessman and mentor,” he said. “He was the reason I kept it open after his passing [in 2021], out of respect for him and our partnerships. A young and hungry operator will do well there.”
Sura Indian Bistro has left 1726 Chestnut St., and co-owner Patti Revathi says the partners are looking for a new location. Sura opened in April 2024 as a rebrand of Ancient Spirits & Grille, which had occupied the three-story space since 2021.
Briefly noted
Reading Terminal Market has transformed the 1100 block of Filbert Street into a pedestrian-only plaza featuring more than 15 local vendors, live entertainment, a bar, and expanded seating. Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. daily through early August. Stephanie Farr has more here.
Philly VegFest returns Saturday for its sixth annual celebration of vegan food, plant-based living, and food justice. The free festival runs noon-7 p.m. at Girard College (2101 S. College Ave.) with more than 50 food and retail vendors, music, speakers, film screenings, a vegan beer and cider garden, and family activities. Headliners include former NBA star and vegan advocate John Salley, filmmaker John “Bad Ass Vegan” Lewis, physician Milton Mills, and wellness coach Gigi the Vegan Jones. Details are here.
Cocktail bar R&D’s new pop-up series, “South Goes North,” imports South Philly dive bars to Fishtown one Sunday a month from 6-10 p.m. Joining R&D beverage director Aaron Deary will be The Jim (this Sunday), South Philadelphia Tap Room (July 12), and 12 Steps Down (Aug. 9).
Medium Rare, the syndicated steakhouse in Fishtown, offers a comp Father’s Day brunch to first-time fathers on June 21. Proof of a 2026 birth date, such as a copy of birth certificate or similar documentation, is required. Booking is via OpenTable.
Do you know anything about a chain called Chicken Salad Chick? — Emily R.
There’s a franchise idea for everyone nowadays. Chicken Salad Chick is a fast-casual brand, founded in Auburn, Ga., in 2008, whose menu is based on a dozen varieties of chicken salad. With 45 store openings in 2025 alone, it’s now pushing into the Northeast U.S. Two Philly-area locations are in the works now. One is under construction at Airport Center, just outside of Allentown (late July-early August), and a second is being teed up for Providence Town Center in Collegeville (“Q3 or Q4,” the company told me). In other niche franchise news, the region’s first Graze Craze, which sells custom charcuterie boards created by Grazologists™, just opened in Blue Bell Village, 921 Penllyn Blue Bell Pike, Blue Bell.
📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.
By submitting your written, visual, and/or audio contributions, you agree to The Inquirer’s Terms of Use, including the grant of rights in Section 10.
A James Beard Award-winning New York cocktail team is bringing its agave-focused bar concept to Philadelphia, taking over the former Martha space in East Kensington.
Mixteca, an ode to tequila, mezcal, and Mexican drinking culture from industry veterans Jeff Bell and Euclides “Victor” Lopez, is expected to open next month at York and Martha Streets. It’s the former home of Martha, the acclaimed bar that closed in November 2024 after a decade.
Euclides “Victor” Lopez behind the bar with his signature drink La Bandera at Mixteca in New York City on June 4, 2026.Michael Klein / Staff
Mixteca opened in New York’s West Village last July, with a limited food menu from Tacos 1986 next door.
The project marks the Philadelphia debut for both Mixteca and Apres Cru Hospitality, the New York-based investment and management company behind the expansion.
Apres Cru, which also works with such chefs as Marc Forgione and Ludo Lefebvre, initially announced that Martha would become a Philadelphia outpost of Pig & Khao, the Thai- and Filipino-inspired restaurant from Top Chef alumna Leah Cohen and her husband, Ben Byruch.
Construction plans for Mixteca as seen in the space at 2113 E. York St. on May 28, 2026.Michael Klein / Staff
“But we got deeper into this neighborhood and this space, [Mixteca] just started to feel like a really good fit for here,” Chris Quinlan, Apres Cru’s vice president, said.
The former Martha, at 2113 E. York St., occupies part of the long-gone Weisbrod & Hess Brewery complex near Frankford Avenue. It’s in a fast-growing restaurant district — across from Picnic and beside Zig Zag BBQ, down the block from Philadelphia Brewing Co., and around the corner from the Monkey Bar. Emilia, Bar ILU, Fiore, and Little Walter’s are all within a short walk.
Mixteca will retain Martha’s indoor-outdoor appeal while significantly reworking the layout. The space will seat about 75 guests indoors, including a comfy lounge area on the York Street side, with an additional 50 seats on the patio. A new balcony, seating about 20 and overlooking the dining room and bar, will accommodate private dinners and small events.
Mixteca’s future home at 2113 E. York St. previously housed Martha.Michael Klein / Staff
The design will draw heavily from Puebla, Mexico, where Lopez was born. Talavera tile, ceramic details, and a signature arched back bar inspired by a museum in Puebla will connect the Philadelphia location to the original West Village location without replicating it.
“I’m incapable of copy-and-paste,” Bell said. “Doing the exact same thing a second time isn’t inspiring to me.”
Bell and Lopez first worked together at the influential East Village cocktail destination Please Don’t Tell, known as PDT. Lopez joined the operation shortly after its 2007 opening after working at the bar’s associated hot dog joint, Crif Dogs, for five years. PDT won the Beard Awards’ first award for Outstanding Bar Program in 2012.
“If you ever drank at PDT since its inception, there’s a very good chance he made one of your cocktails,” Bell said of Lopez.
Mixteca’s concept grew out of conversations Bell and Lopez began nearly a decade ago about creating a venue centered on agave spirits and Lopez’s Mexican heritage. “He spent so many years making everybody else’s drinks, and this is a chance for him,” Bell said.
Mixteca’s calling card is La Bandera, a three-shot tequila ritual inspired by the colors of the Mexican flag and served in a tray over pebble ice. The order starts with a tangy, ceviche-like green juice, segues to a crisp blanco tequila, and finishes with a red, fruity sangrita chaser.
While tequila and mezcal remain the focus, Bell said the Philadelphia version will lean more heavily into food than the New York original. The menu is expected to feature house-made tortillas, tacos, guacamole, esquites, and other street-food staples, alongside larger dishes designed for groups and families. A small children’s menu and desserts such as flan or tres leches cake are also planned.
Bell said the East Kensington neighborhood helped shape the offerings. “In the West Village, it’s more about going out for drinks and late nights,” he said. “Here it’s more residential.”
“If there were a sliding scale, and New York was 80/20 drinks-to-food, here it’s probably more like 55/45 or 50/50.”
Cocktails will still anchor the experience. The bar plans to import popular features from New York, including a daily “Margarita Hour” offering discounted margaritas. Bell also said the menu will incorporate Philadelphia influences through agave-based interpretations of local classics such as the Clover Club and Fish House Punch.
The beverage program will also include a substantial selection of nonalcoholic drinks.
For a neighborhood that has become increasingly defined by destination dining, Mixteca will arrive as something slightly different: a cocktail-forward gathering place that aims to function as both bar and restaurant.
“We’re not going to impose our will,” Bell said. “We’re going to showcase our concept, try to ingratiate ourselves with the community, and evolve over time into whatever makes the most sense here.”
When a barge strike shut down Amtrak service south of Wilmington on Saturday, singer and actor Nick Jonas found himself with an unexpected layover — and an impromptu dinner in Delaware.
Jonas was traveling from New York to the Baltimore area for a stop on his “A Night With Nick” solo tour when his train was halted. A barge had struck the Susquehanna River Bridge between Perryville and Havre de Grace, Md., disrupting Northeast Corridor service.
Unable to find a rideshare for the rest of the trip, Jonas searched Google for “best restaurant in Wilmington” and landed at Bardea Food & Drink, according to co-owner Scott Stein. (Bardea, six blocks from the train station, happens to be a local favorite of Inquirer critic Craig LaBan.)
The Camp Rock star and three members of his team settled in for dinner while arranging alternate transportation.
Jonas recounted the unexpected stop on Snapchat before continuing to the Hall at Live! inside Live! Casino & Hotel Maryland, where he performed Saturday night.
They had several of the restaurant’s signature dishes, including the ricotta gnocchi and burrata pop tart, along with two pizzas, a half-chicken, gem salad, and fusilloni pasta, before a car service fetched them.
The detour came a day after the national release of the film Power Ballad, a dramedy co-starring Paul Rudd and Jonas.